Lower A-Frame bolt stripped inside frame
10-24-2009, 07:30 PM
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
Lower A-Frame bolt stripped inside frame
86.5
We found P.O. had replaced front lower A-Frame bracket with the wrong year, working on getting the correct one. The drivers side outer bolt the treads into the body frame is stripped, apparently someone used a air gun on it. Does anyone have a solution to this short of dropping the lower A-arm and Helli coil it, or JB weld.
We found P.O. had replaced front lower A-Frame bracket with the wrong year, working on getting the correct one. The drivers side outer bolt the treads into the body frame is stripped, apparently someone used a air gun on it. Does anyone have a solution to this short of dropping the lower A-arm and Helli coil it, or JB weld.
10-24-2009, 08:54 PM
#2
Team Owner
you could try running a tap into the hole this might give enough bite for a fresh bolt. If not then time-sert would be the next choice,
Usually its best to chase the threads with a tap before putting the bolts back into the holes if any of them are not going in smoothly
Usually its best to chase the threads with a tap before putting the bolts back into the holes if any of them are not going in smoothly
10-24-2009, 09:01 PM
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
This is my brothers car the rack bushings allow the whole rack to move around, then we found the damage. Both lower braces were loose in the front, never mind only one bolt would align up due to the wrong bracket. The main bolt nut is definitely stripped, we tried swapping bolts but it will not tighten. This looks like a big pain I did not expect. Makes me wonder with the rack so loose if it caused the other bolts to loosen also.
Any one know what size this bolt is and if an Sae would work?
Any one know what size this bolt is and if an Sae would work?
10-24-2009, 11:00 PM
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I wouldn't put an SAE bolt in it unless it happened to be the last bolt available on earth. Or you just needed to hold the wheels on long enough to get it to a breaker. That's just my personal opinion though, as a previous victim of similar PO crimes.
The Time-Sert option may be the best if you can get the right size. The holding bolts for suspension are typically a little tougher than standard bolts, so make sure you get the right replacements for them. I think PET typically shows thread sizes for the bolts so I'd start there to get the right size inserts and tap. Bolts may best come from one of your favorite 928 parts purveyors just to be sure. Better indusrial hardware places will have the insert and taps. You can start at the Timesert website and work out from there for distributors, or call your favorite industrial hardware supplier and see what they have. As far as the installation of the insert, the drilling and tapping part will be the most fun. That frame piece is likely not plain old mild steel, so be careful to keep the drill and dthe tap straight. And don't break the tap off in there trying to force it. 1/8 Turn forward, then a full turn back to clear the chips. Plenty of lubrication. Use a real tap wrench too-- Don't even think of trying this with a single-end wrench that exerts lateral force when you pull on it. Keep the forces to twisting and you'll stand a much better chance of success.
The Time-Sert option may be the best if you can get the right size. The holding bolts for suspension are typically a little tougher than standard bolts, so make sure you get the right replacements for them. I think PET typically shows thread sizes for the bolts so I'd start there to get the right size inserts and tap. Bolts may best come from one of your favorite 928 parts purveyors just to be sure. Better indusrial hardware places will have the insert and taps. You can start at the Timesert website and work out from there for distributors, or call your favorite industrial hardware supplier and see what they have. As far as the installation of the insert, the drilling and tapping part will be the most fun. That frame piece is likely not plain old mild steel, so be careful to keep the drill and dthe tap straight. And don't break the tap off in there trying to force it. 1/8 Turn forward, then a full turn back to clear the chips. Plenty of lubrication. Use a real tap wrench too-- Don't even think of trying this with a single-end wrench that exerts lateral force when you pull on it. Keep the forces to twisting and you'll stand a much better chance of success.
10-25-2009, 12:20 AM
#5
the best thing would be to drill and tap a helicoil not that hard to do or try a 1/2x20 bolt its a little bigger if the whole is stripped you wont need to drill it. a 1/2 x 20 tap will cut right through and use the new bolt. dont ask me how i know but i can tell you its been at least 6 years and doing fine.
