AO

+1

Mrmerlin

open the back of the 14 pin connector and see if the insulation is peeling off any of the wires. Location is just above the hot post stud.
Disconnect the o2 sensor and see what happens to running of the car.
Tach jumping with the new LH is normal,
tach NOT jumping indicates a failed LH or a failed CPS

Mongo

Ok so here's the agenda for tomorrow morning then:

1 - Take Multimeter to LH & EZK harnesses to OHM Temp II sensor, TPS (idle & WOT switches) to make sure there are no breaks in the harness causing continuity issues.

2 - Clean up the 14-pin connector

3 - Disconnect O2 and go for a spin

I've got my fingers crossed and am hoping that running without an O2 fixes the car after the LH learns.

Bill51sdr

Andy, Andy, Andy... It will be running on a fixed map, nothing to learn, running "open loop".

Good luck & hope this sheds some good light on the problem.

Mongo

Ok I get it. I hate Bosch LH. Learning L-Jet on my 944 was so much simpler (I knew I should have bought an OB)...

Mrmerlin

Andy you missed something... inspect the hot post and the 14 pin connector.
Are you reading anything that i have suggested???

stolarzj

And while you have that multimeter out check the voltage with the car idling, and check it with a load on the car like lights, A/C, etc..

Landseer

Stan, question, how does one service the hot post? I've never looked at that either, just the 14 pin.

Mrmerlin

Disconnect the battery,
get an 11mm wrench and an eraser (ink/pencil) remove the stud ,
clean the ends of the wire terminals,
then remove the 14 pin connector,
look at the pins if they are corroded clean these.
refit the connector,
then open the back of it and inspect the wires in the connector housing looking for broken insulation.
If you find damage get some shrink tube and put on the damaged wires, this also goes for the thick wire connected to the hot post.
Once the 14 pin is good to go,
refit then install the hot post stud then fit the hot post cover

Mongo

Sorry Merlin I didn't include it. Yes I have read everything you have said as well as everything. Just want to do whatever I can tomorrow to get this thing running at least marginally if not 100% (w/ O2 connected)

Landseer

Mongo,

Remember that you can replace the O2 sensor with a totally equivalent one for about $50 with a new one from an autoparts store. Requires dropping the exhaust, but that's not so hard on these cars.

I'm solving my problems with intermittency first, then will replace O2 when I'm solid, which is now.

(Unfortunately, I've damaged a transmission brake band this week, so now I have 2 cars down with auto trans issues)

dr bob

Andy, I'm not hammering you particularly, but that 'just fix it enough to get it close to OK' philosophy contributes a lot to the problems many seem to have. Do it like you mean it. Go the extra few yards now and save yourself a mile of grief later. Invest now in future happiness.

Starting to sound like a Tony Robbins lecture...

Landseer

Need shades. Damn nice teeth, but shiny.

Gtaebr

Tell me I did not run naked round the lawn clutching a chicken foot and a wax effigy of your car in vain.....

Mongo

I intend to. This weekend is troubleshooting. Disconnecting the O2 to make the system run open loop is part of my diagnosis to see if it 'fixes' the idle fluctuations and prevents stalling when the car is at operating temperature. This will for sure tell me that I can go buy an O2 sensor. But for now, I'm not going to 'shotgun' anymore parts. On a side note, dropping the exhaust isn't necessary on my car since I designed my own x-pipe in a way the O2 sensor pops right into the front of the X and disconncects easily.