Tony H.

I am changing my timing belt and water pump with the help of everyone out there it is going good so far.
Thanks to all who have helped along the way.
I have some questions about some items while I am doing this job that maybe someone has run into as well.
The bolt that goes into the hole that leaks oil out when you remove the old system tensioner and change to PKsn'r style the new bolt does not tighten up in the hole it seems to just spin and never gets tight, I also am trying to remove the air pump along the way since Florida does not require emmissions tests.
My questions are why would this bolt not want to get tight, and also what do I need to do after I take the airpump out which I have done, but there are places where hoses / possible vaccume spots are open, like where the pump was connected to the side of the car near passenger side above plugs via a blue long hose and then loops thru (something) to the air filter and also where it tied into the filter that leads down to the bottom of the car.
I just don't know what all has to come off the car and what needs to stay on. Or if I need to plug up the hose areas that are open now that I have removed the airpump.

HELP!!!!!!! Please. My car is a 1986 model late 85 actually via vin #.

Mike Frye

Hey Tony,

Sorry no help on the bolt for the tensioner, I'm still stock in that department, but I may be able to help with the air pump. I assume you don't have the stock cats anymore? If you do you still need the pump on there or it won't work right.

There is a vacuum line that comes off the front of the throttle body that you'll have to plug. Other than that, you should be able to just disconnect and remove that blue hose and the pump and everything they connect to.

In my '85 there is no hose that goes to the bottom of the airbox, but I've seen it in the '86.5s. I guess you'll have to find a way to plug the bottom of the air box (maybe get an '85 air box which has the nipple but it isn't open into the air box?).

Basically you can remove all the plumbing that connects to the air pump and cap it. Then you'll need either an electric fan or the short belt for the stock fan like I've got.

Good luck!

Tony H.

I may have an issue you just mentioned, stock cats on the car, I assume they are still on I have not removed them, and before i bought the Pksn'r i ask roger about the removeal of the air pump and he said just cut the metal part that connects to the muffer and crimp it closed nothing about removing the cats.
Also where does the vaccume hose from the front of the throttle body go or I should what does it hook up to, I am very new to working on this car and I assume the throttle body is the thing on top of the engine that looks like pipes? I have the short belt from Roger as well. I really want to solve the non tightened bolt before I move any further I may try the old bolt to see if they are different, the new one threaded in good but never got tight and I am sure that most likely gets oil pressure on it when the car is running...


I know I am a dummy but learning as I go with all's help.
Thanks so much to everyone!!!!

Not real sure about this cat thing not many people will take them off and I don't know how? Not real sure what they even look like.

the flyin' scotsman

Tony............if I understand your question correctly the bolt your replacing actually screws into the water pump. The original bolt has a shoulder which tightens against the WP. The replacement 'plug' has no shoulder so you have 2 options; the new WP should have come with a new shoulder bolt that even though its not needed with the PKensioner it can be left in place or it can be removed and replaced with one of the plugs that come with the PKensioner kit using RTV to seal. Assuming you have the new WP in hand just screw the plug in so its flush with the inner cavity and let the RTV set.

Tony H.

Hey my flying guitar friend good to hear from you on this.
I have the set scre in the water pump already the bolt I am refering to is the bolt that actuallt holds on the bracket of the tensioner at the hole that would leak oil out of it when you remove th old tensioner.
The new bolt with PKtensioner that fits in that hole does not tighten onto the block tight it just spins and never gets tight.
Youhave 4 bolts for the tensioner that hold it on and the one that will not tighten up its the one closest to the water pump top right of the bracket for the PKtensioner.
Does that help at all?

Also I hope I have not opened a can of worms with trying to remove my air pump Roger made it sound like all I had to do was just take it off the car and crimp the pipe that goes to the muffler under the car. I see alot of place's where hose's and filters and other items hook up to this air pump, and the tensioner kit he sent me which is installed is the one for no air pump and the belt is on the car and tight.

I really hope I have not opened up Pandora????

billtool

I've got to do the same thing with my air pump, Tony. I pulled my cats and installed a short belt. Check my recent post - its got the Grainger part number that is a perfect fit.

See Mike - I knew I'd need to use some of your words of wisdom today...had no idea how to pull off that pump.

Stromius

I was just in this neck of the woods. If it's the M8 bolt in the top middle of this photo, then it may be that the threads are stripped. You torque this to 15/ft lbs with some RTV to keep oil from seeping.

If it's stripped, you can use heliocoil thread repair pretty easily. I bought the kit and drill bit at NAPA. I had to fix the two M8 bolts that help hold the alternator/PS pump mounting cassette yesterday. Took 30 minutes (drill with 21/64 th's drillbit, ream for heliocoil, inset coil and then torque original bolt. Amazingly effective. The trick (if this is the issue) is not to drill too deep! Looks like 4-6 threads and these inserts are adjustable; just snip off what you don't need before you thread them in so it sits flush - 1/4 to 1/2 turn in. Likely need to measure how far the M8 bolt protrudes on the backside of the bracket and go from there.

Stromius

My pics from this job: http://picasaweb.google.com/sdamstro...rkenTensioner#

PS don't forget the 2nd washer BEHIND the pulley!!

ROG100

Tony,
If you do not need cats for emmissions then get rid of the air pump.
You can also get rid of the cats when you are ready and replace with an X pipe.
Just plug the vacuum line and cut the pipe at the manifold and crimp it.
Roger

Mike Frye

Roger,

I thought the stock cats needed the air pump to work right. Will they get clogged or be dangerous or anything without the infusion of air or was that just to make them pass emissions?

+1 on the x-pipe and high flow cats. You'll LOVE the way it runs and even if you don't need them for emissions testing your car will smell better and be greener with the high flow cats than without any cats at all.

BTW- EVERY job on a 928 is a can of worms, but this one isn't too bad and will make your car more liable (porkensioner) and more powerful (X-pipes and lack of drag/weight from the air pump).

The vac line from the front of the throttle body (under the center 'T' of the pipes on top) goes over to the passenger side and connects to one of the mechanisms that is inline with the air pump or the blue hose you were talking about, I forget which. If you take off the intake tubes and side boxes to the intake you'll be able to find the vac line. Those intake side boxes or plenums are only held in place by the rubber hose sections and a few other connections.

ROG100

Mike,
As always I am ready to be corrected by someone who knows a better answer.
As far as I know the air is only directed to the cats at start up to help heat them up quickly. It then shuts off.
Once the cats have reached operating temperature they work on there own.
We have got rid of the air pump on many cars without a problem.

I guess Tony could also gut the cats to get rid of the restriction as well.
Best,
Roger

Tony H.

This is all great stuff for me guys and I have some questions, how are the cats held on? My car is sitting on the ground and I only jacked the car up on one side to put in the flywheel lock, so I am unsure I can remove the cats, if they unbolt maybe I can, if they have to be cut out I am sure I can not do it.

Gutting them I am not sure how to do that as well, at best I am a newbie at all of this. I did see the hose out of the front of the throttle body it has several hose's going in different directions, and one did go to the thing on the passenger side of the car mentioned earlier and also I see 2 small black vaccum lines going to a different thing on the same side but nearer the filter box .

Tell me if this seems like something I should or can do or not, I want to plug the holes where the air pump was hooked up to the puralator air filter then seal off the front throttle body hose going to the side thing and remove the rear thing with 2 small black vaccume line and plug them and close off the hole in the bottom of my air filter box, if that made since to any one please say so, or do I have to cut and crimp under the car at the cats. If so what do I cut, where do I cut and crimp, and if you can show a link with photo that would help.

I am not sure where to cut and crimp the line going to the cats and not sure how to gut them , not sure how to remove them, and I am not real sure yet on the bolt with heliocoil thread repair but I will learn that also.
One last thing the (T) hose in front of thre throttle body, do I only need to plug the one going to the passenger side for the air pump stuff or all of the (T) lines, or the one feeding the (T)?

I know lots of stupid questions that most likely every machanic would know but I am not a mechanic, YET!!!!!

Thanks so much I am at my store today and will keep checking on answers as the day goes by.

Thanks again, this is for my everyday driver which has been down a while now.

Hey on a good note the belt looks great and adjustment is within measurements needed, I must have done that right and the water pump is new now.

Just a few more things now and I will be backing bitting the road and to think you guys did it for me, AHHH shucks I am moved really.
Tony H.

dprantl

I would recommend that you get an X-pipe and take the cats off. The cats are part of the exhaust system and cannot just be removed without putting something in their place. They are bolted to the exhaust manifolds just above and behind both sides of the oil pan. On the other side they are clamped to the rest of the exhaust. They can be unbolted on both sides easily. An X-pipe is the same shape and bolts in place. You can then get high-flow cats behind the X-pipe, or just run straight pipe. I would recommend the cats, as they cause almost no restriction at all and the car will be much cleaner. On top of that, this setup will give you an extra 20hp to the wheels at least, if not more.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft

Mike Frye

Hey Tony,

Yeah, you can't just 'Remove the cats' without replacing them with something. It sounds like Roger has done the air pump delete without altering the stock cats in any way so I guess it's no big deal.

That being the case:

I'm not sure how you've got more than one vac line going to the front of the throttle body, but anything connected to the air pump circuit (and that thick blue hose) should be fair game for disco and plugging up. There is nothing that works backward or is triggered by the air pump system so plugging or removing anything that connects to them is fine.

Roger is talking about crimping the pipe that runs down the passenger side of the engine and then connects to a pipe that goes to the top passenger side of the catalytic converters. The stock cats are a 'Y' shaped assembly that bolts to the exhaust manifolds at the fronts (beside the engine on both sides) and to the tail pipes under the center of the car at the back of them. They are bolted front and back and the O2 sensor is mounted at the top in the middle of the 'Y' of the catalytic converters.


Ah, just found a pic of my old one, the pipe on the right side that would normally get the air from the air pump.

Tony H.

Thanks for the photo that helps alot.
I have to see if I have the money and know how to get the x pipes installed but first to enough money purchase them now or wait until later I have no clue what they cost yet.
I have been busy in my jewelry store all day so I am maybe going to have time to try a heliocoil fix but I can not fit a drill in between the head and my radiator so I may be stumped until I find a way to do this chore and then move on to the air pump removal which I think I have a good idea of now., Can the hole for the M8 bolt just be tapped slightly larger and use a different size bolt or is the part it threads into to soft to do that like is it steel on the block or aluminum where the M8 bolt goes in.
I would like to just use a dap and dand make the hole slightly larger say 3/8 bolt thread and just change bolts is that a possiblity or only the heliocoil thing will work?
Thanks Tony H.