Weird sound from front suspension
#1
Weird sound from front suspension
OK, I can't figure this out on my own. Sometimes when I am backing out of a parking space with the wheel cranked to the right I get a popping noise from the front suspension area. Sometimes when this happens the car makes a slight jerking movement. I have inspected the suspension with the wheels on the ground and with the front end in the air and have been unable to find anything loose or worn. I have had the car aligned at a shop with a new Hunter and it aligned fine. I did not have the shop raise the car to check for worn components so I did not get any input from them on the situation. To be honest I didn't mention it to them. This only happens when backing with the wheels cranked to turn. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
#2
Rennlist Member
I think its a worn bushing that is internal to the steering rack.
Try raising the car and grabbing the steering rack boots, alternately, each side, and shaking fore/aft.
Set wheel to right and repeat. Set to left and repeat.
Here's a link to some similar discussion.
(Pay more attention to the link within the link than to my contribution. My delrin "fix" was ultimately too loose and needs to be redone)
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...unk-fixed.html
Try raising the car and grabbing the steering rack boots, alternately, each side, and shaking fore/aft.
Set wheel to right and repeat. Set to left and repeat.
Here's a link to some similar discussion.
(Pay more attention to the link within the link than to my contribution. My delrin "fix" was ultimately too loose and needs to be redone)
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...unk-fixed.html
#3
Team Owner
first off i would check the rack bushings.
To do this have a helper start the engine then turn the steering wheel back and forth slowly about 1to 2 inches each way just till resistance is felt.
You look under the back side of each front wheel, look at the rack and see if its moving in the cross member, also look at the tie rods you may have to turn the front wheels a bit to make a visual on the outer tie rods.
Note when your backing out dont turn the steering wheel to full lock this will eventually damage the rack seals go to lock then back off an inch or so, the turning radius should not be noticeably effected.
Next jack the car up and , have your helper grip the front wheels at the 12/ 6 and 3/9 positions, look for loose wheel bearings and or other steering looseness.
Then with your helper holding the brakes remove the front wheels.
Put the jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint, jack it up a bit , then pry on it to see if there is play, also pry down on the upper A arm see if that joint is loose and observe the A arm bushings for any wear on the metal washer for front to back play
To do this have a helper start the engine then turn the steering wheel back and forth slowly about 1to 2 inches each way just till resistance is felt.
You look under the back side of each front wheel, look at the rack and see if its moving in the cross member, also look at the tie rods you may have to turn the front wheels a bit to make a visual on the outer tie rods.
Note when your backing out dont turn the steering wheel to full lock this will eventually damage the rack seals go to lock then back off an inch or so, the turning radius should not be noticeably effected.
Next jack the car up and , have your helper grip the front wheels at the 12/ 6 and 3/9 positions, look for loose wheel bearings and or other steering looseness.
Then with your helper holding the brakes remove the front wheels.
Put the jack under the lower control arm near the ball joint, jack it up a bit , then pry on it to see if there is play, also pry down on the upper A arm see if that joint is loose and observe the A arm bushings for any wear on the metal washer for front to back play
#7
Race Car
I have the same issue, in reverse and only when the wheel is turned to the right at near full lock. No jerking movement though, just a pop noise. New front wheel bearings. and suspension bushings are good. The rack hasn't been touched though, so Mmerlin sounds correct. I'll have to take a look.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Mine did the same...
Stan's suggetions +1
Repacked and adjusted front wheel bearings
Removed all tie rods replaced with fresh grease and replaced all boots
Repacked upper and lower ball joints fresh grease and new boots
Removed cleaned and greased lower ball joints sliding areas together with all the excentrics (Only after this did I get good alignment results)
Replaced front shocks and snubbers
Replaced passenger side front lower control arm bushing (it had a little slack in it
Adjusted the overall ride height and re aligned the front end.
Results are awesome car his never handled this well since I owned it
On mine It's all gone after adjusting ride height, castor and all other in house alignments.
Best
Repacked and adjusted front wheel bearings
Removed all tie rods replaced with fresh grease and replaced all boots
Repacked upper and lower ball joints fresh grease and new boots
Removed cleaned and greased lower ball joints sliding areas together with all the excentrics (Only after this did I get good alignment results)
Replaced front shocks and snubbers
Replaced passenger side front lower control arm bushing (it had a little slack in it
Adjusted the overall ride height and re aligned the front end.
Results are awesome car his never handled this well since I owned it
On mine It's all gone after adjusting ride height, castor and all other in house alignments.
Best
#9
Rennlist Member
Mine too.
Inners, outers, uppers, lowers, A-frame bushings, Boges, Caliper rebuild, bearings, rotors & pads & boots. And Motorsports solid rack bushings. All torqued-up.
Back out of a parking place with the wheel turned and the steering rack clunks because the bushing is worn out inside the rack.
Inners, outers, uppers, lowers, A-frame bushings, Boges, Caliper rebuild, bearings, rotors & pads & boots. And Motorsports solid rack bushings. All torqued-up.
Back out of a parking place with the wheel turned and the steering rack clunks because the bushing is worn out inside the rack.
#10
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Milwaukee, WI
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You didn't exactly say how you checked the front suspension when the car was int the air. Did you just grab the control arms and pull up and down on them to check for play or did you check them by using a pry bar and checking for movement? I will always use a pry bar to check for movement in suspension. I am not there to actually hear the sound, but it sounds like a bad joint. I would try checking the upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rods again. Joe
#11
You didn't exactly say how you checked the front suspension when the car was int the air. Did you just grab the control arms and pull up and down on them to check for play or did you check them by using a pry bar and checking for movement? I will always use a pry bar to check for movement in suspension. I am not there to actually hear the sound, but it sounds like a bad joint. I would try checking the upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rods again. Joe
That is the direction I'm leaning. Last time I had the front end in the air I did use a pry bar to try and detect movement from the joints. I didn't see anything alarming. I admit I may not have been doing this correctly but I'm not sure. I will get the front end in the air again and check it some more. There is something going on there, I just need to track it down.
#13
Rennlist Member
If its the steering rack interior bushing you will not need a prybar, just grab the arm through the boot and shake front/back., ie, in line with the direction of travel of the car. It will clunk like there is no tomorrow.
Extend the shaft to the left side when checking left play, right side for right play. It will accentuate the effect if it is the problem.
The bushing is withheld from the USA DIY rebuild kits, too, by the manufacturer. Reserved for aftermarket rebuilders. PITA.
So I've got to save for a rebuilt rack.
Extend the shaft to the left side when checking left play, right side for right play. It will accentuate the effect if it is the problem.
The bushing is withheld from the USA DIY rebuild kits, too, by the manufacturer. Reserved for aftermarket rebuilders. PITA.
So I've got to save for a rebuilt rack.