Mirror Switch Replacement
09-18-2009, 02:52 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Mirror Switch Replacement
I just replaced the joystick mirror switch (928.613.241.00) on my 91 S4.
My mirror motors all worked, but would sometimes not respond to switch unless you pressed hard, or released and tried again. Generally intermittent behaviour but not working more often than working so it was clear switch was faulty.
To replace it you just pull off the domed button, then if you grip the square joystick and pull up the assembly pops out the door far enough to disconnect the joystick connector and the left/right selector connector.
The joystick switch is held in the assembly by a couple of tabs, so just prise away one side with screwdriver and pull one of the contacts with pliers and it comes straight out.
I tested it with a multimeter and only one position worked OK though contacts looked very clean.
It didn't look practical to disassemble and try to fix. The sprung mechanism didn't feel positive so was glad I'd ordered a new switch to replace ($69).
With the new switch in place and reconnected mirrors worked perfectly both sides any position, responding immediately to switch.
So that rare thing, a five minute 928 fix with no snags!
My mirror motors all worked, but would sometimes not respond to switch unless you pressed hard, or released and tried again. Generally intermittent behaviour but not working more often than working so it was clear switch was faulty.
To replace it you just pull off the domed button, then if you grip the square joystick and pull up the assembly pops out the door far enough to disconnect the joystick connector and the left/right selector connector.
The joystick switch is held in the assembly by a couple of tabs, so just prise away one side with screwdriver and pull one of the contacts with pliers and it comes straight out.
I tested it with a multimeter and only one position worked OK though contacts looked very clean.
It didn't look practical to disassemble and try to fix. The sprung mechanism didn't feel positive so was glad I'd ordered a new switch to replace ($69).
With the new switch in place and reconnected mirrors worked perfectly both sides any position, responding immediately to switch.
So that rare thing, a five minute 928 fix with no snags!
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Jufri (06-09-2021)
09-18-2009, 03:50 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
When I bought my 928 the first job I did was look at this switch because its operation was
faulty and intermittent. Since I hadn't heard of Rennlist at that point I just went ahead and
didn't think to record what I did.
I prised back the plastic barbs on the reverse of the joystick part and slowly eased the module apart.
Just as well I did as it is full of various very small parts including tiny ball bearings and springs.
I managed to get it apart and still see how they all related to reach other.
If I remember correctly the ballbearings sat in conical depressions and were held there by the springs.
There was a fair bit of dirt and very light corrosion on these conducting parts so I cleaned them up.
I rolled the ***** around between two cloths and used a wooden matchstick trimmed to a point with
a scalpel to brighten up the inside of the conical deperessions. I put all the parts back as I remembered
them and snapped the module shut. Wonder of wonders it worked perfectly and
I wish now I had taken pictures of the process to post.
If you try this job yourself open the module up very carefully and slowly; if you don't the small parts will
explode all over the place. I think I did it under a cloth so nothing could go flying. Also the parts inside
are really very tiny and easy to lose. It was a bit like doing electrical micro surgery.
Before you buy a new switch it's worth having a go at a repair.
faulty and intermittent. Since I hadn't heard of Rennlist at that point I just went ahead and
didn't think to record what I did.
I prised back the plastic barbs on the reverse of the joystick part and slowly eased the module apart.
Just as well I did as it is full of various very small parts including tiny ball bearings and springs.
I managed to get it apart and still see how they all related to reach other.
If I remember correctly the ballbearings sat in conical depressions and were held there by the springs.
There was a fair bit of dirt and very light corrosion on these conducting parts so I cleaned them up.
I rolled the ***** around between two cloths and used a wooden matchstick trimmed to a point with
a scalpel to brighten up the inside of the conical deperessions. I put all the parts back as I remembered
them and snapped the module shut. Wonder of wonders it worked perfectly and
I wish now I had taken pictures of the process to post.
If you try this job yourself open the module up very carefully and slowly; if you don't the small parts will
explode all over the place. I think I did it under a cloth so nothing could go flying. Also the parts inside
are really very tiny and easy to lose. It was a bit like doing electrical micro surgery.
Before you buy a new switch it's worth having a go at a repair.
Last edited by brianrheffron; 09-18-2009 at 03:51 PM. Reason: Spacing of text
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Jufri (06-09-2021)
09-18-2009, 04:00 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
...
To replace it you just pull off the domed button, then if you grip the square joystick and pull up the assembly pops out the door far enough to disconnect the joystick connector and the left/right selector connector.
The joystick switch is held in the assembly by a couple of tabs, so just prise away one side with screwdriver and pull one of the contacts with pliers and it comes straight out.
...
To replace it you just pull off the domed button, then if you grip the square joystick and pull up the assembly pops out the door far enough to disconnect the joystick connector and the left/right selector connector.
The joystick switch is held in the assembly by a couple of tabs, so just prise away one side with screwdriver and pull one of the contacts with pliers and it comes straight out.
...
My new switch arrived yesterday from 928intl, and I was just heading to the shop to have a look when I stopped to have a look at Rennlist!
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Jufri (06-09-2021)
09-18-2009, 06:46 PM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
When I bought my 928 the first job I did was look at this switch because its operation was
faulty and intermittent. Since I hadn't heard of Rennlist at that point I just went ahead and
didn't think to record what I did.
I prised back the plastic barbs on the reverse of the joystick part and slowly eased the module apart.
Just as well I did as it is full of various very small parts including tiny ball bearings and springs.
I managed to get it apart and still see how they all related to reach other.
If I remember correctly the ballbearings sat in conical depressions and were held there by the springs.
There was a fair bit of dirt and very light corrosion on these conducting parts so I cleaned them up.
I rolled the ***** around between two cloths and used a wooden matchstick trimmed to a point with
a scalpel to brighten up the inside of the conical deperessions. I put all the parts back as I remembered
them and snapped the module shut. Wonder of wonders it worked perfectly and
I wish now I had taken pictures of the process to post.
If you try this job yourself open the module up very carefully and slowly; if you don't the small parts will
explode all over the place. I think I did it under a cloth so nothing could go flying. Also the parts inside
are really very tiny and easy to lose. It was a bit like doing electrical micro surgery.
Before you buy a new switch it's worth having a go at a repair.
faulty and intermittent. Since I hadn't heard of Rennlist at that point I just went ahead and
didn't think to record what I did.
I prised back the plastic barbs on the reverse of the joystick part and slowly eased the module apart.
Just as well I did as it is full of various very small parts including tiny ball bearings and springs.
I managed to get it apart and still see how they all related to reach other.
If I remember correctly the ballbearings sat in conical depressions and were held there by the springs.
There was a fair bit of dirt and very light corrosion on these conducting parts so I cleaned them up.
I rolled the ***** around between two cloths and used a wooden matchstick trimmed to a point with
a scalpel to brighten up the inside of the conical deperessions. I put all the parts back as I remembered
them and snapped the module shut. Wonder of wonders it worked perfectly and
I wish now I had taken pictures of the process to post.
If you try this job yourself open the module up very carefully and slowly; if you don't the small parts will
explode all over the place. I think I did it under a cloth so nothing could go flying. Also the parts inside
are really very tiny and easy to lose. It was a bit like doing electrical micro surgery.
Before you buy a new switch it's worth having a go at a repair.
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Jufri (06-09-2021)
09-18-2009, 07:14 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well it's not quite as delicate as I thought. The "ball bearings" are rounded tips of little metal pins about 1cm long which drop into tiny springs which are attached firmly to joystick part.
The conical depressions line match to the spherical tips, and are pushed against rectangular metal tabs around them to register the switch direction. It's ingenious. Presumably all joysticks use this mechanism (apart from ones where axes of joystick operate linear potentiometers and output variable signal?).
There's no electrical connection between the "ball bearings" and the conical depressions, but in my switch I can see corrosion/dirt where the conical ends of the male plug are pushed against the relevant metal tabs/strips. If I cleaned these tabs up then I think the switch would work ok.
Photos show the conical depressions (they have sharpened ends which drop into internal end of three of the connector pins) and the metal strips from above, the joystick tips fit the depressions, and side view of the joystick showing tips, springs and the switch shaft.
The conical depressions line match to the spherical tips, and are pushed against rectangular metal tabs around them to register the switch direction. It's ingenious. Presumably all joysticks use this mechanism (apart from ones where axes of joystick operate linear potentiometers and output variable signal?).
There's no electrical connection between the "ball bearings" and the conical depressions, but in my switch I can see corrosion/dirt where the conical ends of the male plug are pushed against the relevant metal tabs/strips. If I cleaned these tabs up then I think the switch would work ok.
Photos show the conical depressions (they have sharpened ends which drop into internal end of three of the connector pins) and the metal strips from above, the joystick tips fit the depressions, and side view of the joystick showing tips, springs and the switch shaft.
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Bales (02-26-2022)
09-18-2009, 07:40 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well just to wrap things up want to report that I used switch cleaner on all the contacts inside the switch, and now it's together again it works perfectly. Now have a used one to sell...
09-18-2009, 07:42 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Good job Adrian.............my switch works intermittently but hardly used because I'm the only driver.
I'll pull it apart for a quick look.
I'll pull it apart for a quick look.
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09-18-2009, 08:21 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
I'm also only driver Malcolm, but my memory switch is a bit haywire and will select one of the positions but not memorise my settings! I can't resist fiddling with it so the mirrors get taken way out of position too.
Looking at old threads it seems cause of memory switch failing to memorise new position and not finding some positions is also down to dirty contacts. Some of wires may have been disconnected when a PO installed new front speakers so that's another possibility. Just need to pop buttons/switch out to take a look.
Looking at old threads it seems cause of memory switch failing to memorise new position and not finding some positions is also down to dirty contacts. Some of wires may have been disconnected when a PO installed new front speakers so that's another possibility. Just need to pop buttons/switch out to take a look.
02-15-2021, 05:47 PM
#10
1st Gear
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: London, UK
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Fixed it.....
One of the little "pins" had become dislodged and jammed the joystick. By carefully dismantling the switch, cleaning it at reassembling just saved the cost of a new switch, around 100 quid I think. Very happy I had a go at repairing it.
