Click Here Check out the new cams Terry

 

link fail Terry ...

Try this one..
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12927

 

Will these billet cams be iron or steel?

 

They will be exactly the same as factory cams. Just more lift/duration etc.

 

Colin , how dose this tri flow work ? Is it for street cams or race ? Terry

 

They open one of the intake valves before the other one, no clue on how well or what it works best with.

 

Terry,

Personally I would say the tri-flow is more for street than it is for race, but it would help on the track too.

This is only availible on vehicles with more than 1 intake valve. The logic behind it is to stagger the two intake valves opening. This induces a very high velocity movement which speeds up the airspeeds in the combustion chamber. This helps to get more charge into the engine NA, and secondly helps to maintain higher air velocity inside the combustion chamber.
The reason that this is good is because when the air starts to slow down and stall in the combustion chamber you get lean air pockets which lead to detonation. This is the reason that some engines (S4) run quench chambers. On the S4 this is the flat part on the head and piston area. As the piston comes up to TDC this area pushes all the air out of this area creating a secondary swirling in the cylinder.

This is one of the reasons I like the S3 heads better. I havent had them on the flow bench, but the port shape should lend to higher port velocity which I personally care more about than pure CFM numbers.

But then again what do I know right

 

Do a search for Nonstoptuning and look at the charts they have, heck give them a call.

Them and others have done dyno testing and when running a hotter cam normally some bottom end is lost at the expense of complete top end power. The tri-flow cams tend to give you the close to or equal top end figures while actually increasing the bottom -mid range power (where the air stalls in the manifold the longest). This technology has been proven to work on many different cars.

When I get the cams, if all 50 sets are spoken for I will have 2 sets of GT+ cams made, one with tri-flow, one without. I will then try to convince Louie to let me drive to his place and do a baseline dyno run. Then swap in the GT+ cams, do another couple runs, then swap in the tri-flow and see what the difference is on a pretty much stock 928 S4. But we are a ways off from that.

For my TT track car I will be running the wildest possible with tri-flow.

 

Are these German Chill Cast Iron or US Cast Iron or US chil cast iron, offshore cast or Steel onshore or offshore?

Why are you reducing the base circile...that will require custom mods to the lifters and valves.

Best to use stock base circle....will you make any cams for solids?

Nice efforts!

 

Marc,

base circles will remain at stock sizes.
I will be offering them with a solid lifter grind too yes. Have mainly been discussing that with the racing group.

These will be cast in USA and will be made in the exact same way as factory cams I have been assured.
I refuse to use offshore chinese crap cams. If I am going to be getting behind a product it needs to last a long time and be a quality piece. If one wanted chinese cams you could probably get blanks from them for $100/set. But they would last a race maybe two and would need to be replaced.

 

Factory cams are German chilled iron?