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New Product: All-Alluminum Replacement Coolant Reservoir

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Old 07-02-2013, 05:20 PM
  #91  
85euro928
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Mike, you know me, I'm a self proclaimed hack so take this advice as you willl. When you pull the radiator do a visual & then run a hose thru it just to see if it's clogged. Then pull the block plugs & tstat & flush the block really well before you install the new radiator. If you have a problem better to find it now instead of later. If that's all clear then start looking elsewhere, WP, timing, head gasket... If that doesn't pan out ask Greg nicely if he wouldn't mind telling you what else coud be causing your overheating probem. If you know what the problem is already and are just trying to be cautious then disregard this post. If you don't then please let us know what you find as I'm curious. Enjoy your vaca!
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:26 PM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by FUSE69
If you are removing the AC stystem, but leaving the standard fan controller in place, then the AC switch in the center console will act as the 'toggle' you're after.

('AC on' switch turns both fans on)
I'm curious, is this function dependant on the compressor circuit being completed? I'm asking bc my second electric fan is tied in to this circuit but does nothing if I push the button (MY '85). It would be nice to be abe to operate the fan manually if I needed.
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Old 07-03-2013, 01:18 AM
  #93  
James Bailey
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pre 1987 (dual electric fans) the front A/C fan is turned on by the thermoswitch in the rad lower left frontwhn you hit about 2/3rds on the gauge or by the thermo switch on the receiver dryer (can in front of rad ) with no functional A/C there is no heat therefore no fan.....
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:22 AM
  #94  
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Installed this unit yesterday. Definitely not an easy job. All in all, it took about 6 hours. The old unit came out more easily than I could get the new unit into place. I ended up removing some of the air pump system components to get it in.

The unit itself it quite impressive. Very nice build quality, other than the nipples as discussed below, and one other problem. Fortunately, before installing it, I test fitted the fluid level sending unit. It didn't fit. The welds for the hole had burrs and bumps that reduced the diameter of the opening. 15 minutes of filing (followed by a thorough flush with compressed air and water) and it was good to go.

Once the tank was in, attaching the hoses to the front of the unit was extremely difficult. The nipples that screw into the front of the unit are plastic; the one at the rear is metal, and has a smaller diameter. Wish it was the same for the fronts. The front nipples had a bulge at the end, larger than the diameter of the rest of the nipples. Made attaching the hoses nearly impossible, especially given that the hoses are routed behind the windshield washer fluid tank filler neck (be sure to move the neck out of the way; one phillips screw and two 10mm bolts hold it to the fender wall). I ended up installing the nipples in the hoses before affixing the threaded ends to the tank. It was tough to fit the nipples into the hoses even doing it this way. I had to cut off one of the bulbous ends. Fortunately my backwards install worked, and the nipples threaded onto the tank pretty easily (held the hose steady with needlenose pliers).

Looks great, and works just as great, so all in all I'm pleased. Fortunately, this thing should never need to be replaced again. I hope!

PS: The white crap on top of my old tank is adhesive from my duct tape temporary fix to cover the hairline cracks in it. Worked pretty well, actually.
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