Mrmerlin

probably not a torch welding. This wont damage any elex parts
stick, tig or mig

Just disconnecting the ground wire at the engine isnt a good idea as the elex will go find another way possibly damaging the alternator

JHowell37

When you crank the engine, open the rear hatch. When you let go of the key, you should hear the fuel pump for about a second. Try this, and let us know if your fuel pump is working. The other option is to have someone else crank the engine while you place your hand on the cover for the fuel pump. If it's working, you'll feel it running when the engine cranks.

backnblack

I don't know if this will help you but I had a thread a few years back call electrical nightmare. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ght=backnblack

good luck
Matt

tlsmith1999

Is there anyone with an 85-86 in the Austin area who would let us swap brains to test Gary's?

Update: Found contact info for Mark, he has a brain for Gary to try. Thanks Mark.

kraabel

I bought one of the BMW Position Sensor and it worked great. The extra length actually makes it pretty easy to get it in there. Plenty of room under the airbox so there's no worry about the extra cable.

They're cheap and eventually need to be replaced, so I would go with that.

John Speake

EZ-F ECUs are the weak link for the 85/86 cars. They do fail quite often The LH for 85/86 are pretty robust.

GRT

Sorry for the long delay between postings. I got a chance to borrow a set of working computers from Mark here in Austin. I tried them in my car and I still get no spark so I ordered a crank position sensor. I received it yesterday and then stripped the hex bolt that was holding the old one in. I am borrowing an extractor set from a friend today.... With my luck the female connector will crumble into dust when I remove the old sensor. I'll keep y'all posted.

JHowell37

The BMW part is 12-14-1-708-618. Pelican has it listed for $90. The application is for a 83-85 325e.

I would be curious to see if the late '85-'87 sensor would work. The end looks like it's plastic instead of aluminum. The part #: 12-14-1-710-668. It costs about $47.

Mrmerlin

Ahh dont try to remove the bolt with an extractor just drill the head off it is easier and less chance of damage to the block, once the head is off then the sensor can be removed then the bolt unscrewed with vise grips

tlsmith1999

We got the bolt drilled, and the sensor off. What a PITA. The sensor was the problem. It runs like a champ again.

Thank you to everyone for the great advice.

Mike Frye

Congrats (and thanks for posting the resolution for future searchers)

billtool

Great news that you're up and running...but going back to the beginning - what's the cut-off for TX requiring cats? Isn't it twenty years and you're exempt?

tlsmith1999

I am not positive, but it was explained to me like this:
After 25yrs you no longer need to pass emissions testing, but technically if the car shipped with cats, there must be cats present. This will be the only year Gary needs to pass the emissions test.

seamus26

Thanks in advance for this post. I am currently having the same problem with my '85. I drove it once this spring. The next morning ... no start. I had loaned my timing light to my father, so I first checked the fuel pump and relays; they seemed to be ok. Then we went on vacation.

When I got back I couldn't for the life of me remember what I had done with the key. So there she sat.

Fast forward a month. We found the key in the rubber seal around the door of our washing machine. Now it's back to troubleshooting. I have no spark on either side, so I'm hoping this thread fixes my problem.

Thanks to everyone for the posts.

seamus26

Got it. It was an ignition relay, XVI if I recall correctly. When I was troubleshooting before I was focusing on the fuel system. After I figured out it was electrical I went back and checked ignition relays and, sure enough, that was it. I found two bad relays, actually, but one was a non-essential.

Thanks, everyone!