Going to polish the body & fill paint chips - Advice sought...
08-10-2009, 03:47 PM
#17
I have a Porter Cable XP I got for Christmas last year. 4 cars done this summer and everyone is happy. Even used it on the hood of a 15 year old Accord that has never been waxed. It worked great. Next up I'm gonna use it on my Dad's boat.
08-10-2009, 03:56 PM
#18
Not the sharpest tool in the shed
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I have had very good results with Dr. Colorchip. Fairly easy to apply and especially is you are doing a solid color like GP White, should be near impossible to tell where the chips have been filled in.
www.drcolorchip.com
www.drcolorchip.com
08-10-2009, 05:30 PM
#19
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I'm seriously considering the cyclone dual head system. I just missed a used on on eBay. Shot up to near $200 with shipping last second. I see that for around $280, you can get a new one, with some basic pads.
Griots Garage doesn't seem to sell the porter cable unit anymore, unless it's just rebranded as their own? I've done a lot of digging and intend to order the small polisher from them as well as their 1-2-3-4 buffing compound kit, and probably their wax and a clay kit too.
I recall them once having a machine head for claying. Seems gone too, but perhaps it had problems... Anyone use that ever?
Can't wait to get started. Still waiting on details of my other problems, but it may start coming together soon. I'm axeing the tail and wiper assembly, it seems. Leaning towards the red vinyl "PORSCHE" rear bumper inserts possibly.
Does anyone actually make fender skirts for this car? Who even still makes a body kit for an S4? Can't be that much of a demand, I'd suspect?
Nick - 89S4
Griots Garage doesn't seem to sell the porter cable unit anymore, unless it's just rebranded as their own? I've done a lot of digging and intend to order the small polisher from them as well as their 1-2-3-4 buffing compound kit, and probably their wax and a clay kit too.
I recall them once having a machine head for claying. Seems gone too, but perhaps it had problems... Anyone use that ever?
Can't wait to get started. Still waiting on details of my other problems, but it may start coming together soon. I'm axeing the tail and wiper assembly, it seems. Leaning towards the red vinyl "PORSCHE" rear bumper inserts possibly.
Does anyone actually make fender skirts for this car? Who even still makes a body kit for an S4? Can't be that much of a demand, I'd suspect?
Nick - 89S4
08-11-2009, 01:42 AM
#20
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I hate to say it, but I actually had a Mercury Capri win a Class Award at a car show a few years back using a $50 buffer from Pep Boys. I've painted 6 or 7 cars since and never had a need to replace it. I started with a foam waffle pad, but I'm finding that a regular wool pad is a lot more forgiving. For compound, I like 3M's Perfect-It II series. Pay attention though, they come in different 'grits'. I'd stay away from Heavy Duty and Super Duty until you've got the hang of it again.
08-11-2009, 04:23 PM
#21
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I recently purchased the Porter Cable unit as well as Lake Country 8" pads. I used Poorboys SSR2, SSR1 and McGuires Carnauba wax on my wifes black 2003 Saab (Tested it on her ride b4 I touched the 928!) and it turned out spectacular! Swirl marks were removed and the black finish was better than new! And black is most unforgiving - if the black loks good, it will polish anything. Secret is to be meticulously clean - don't let any of the more course compound contaminate the next step. Wash everything thoroughly - pads, sponges, car, etc.
Used the SSR2 first to polish out scratches, SSR1 for the final polish and the wax for the final finish. For us Canucks, you can order from this site:
http://www.eshine.ca/
For those south of the border, you are lucky - you have a huge number of suppliers. Most sites, including the one above, have how to articles for swirl removal, etc.
I have to work on the 928 now but the PO gave the car a lousy paint job so I am going to have to do some careful sanding to get rid of some of the blemishes/orange peel first.
Used the SSR2 first to polish out scratches, SSR1 for the final polish and the wax for the final finish. For us Canucks, you can order from this site:
http://www.eshine.ca/
For those south of the border, you are lucky - you have a huge number of suppliers. Most sites, including the one above, have how to articles for swirl removal, etc.
I have to work on the 928 now but the PO gave the car a lousy paint job so I am going to have to do some careful sanding to get rid of some of the blemishes/orange peel first.
08-12-2009, 07:01 PM
#22
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So, I really should use this $579.00 can of wax when I'm done, right?
http://www.detailersdomain.com/swissvaxmystery.aspx
roflmao
At least their "pre-wax oil" is just $40.00 a pop...
http://www.detailersdomain.com/swiss...anerfluid.aspx
Nick - 89S4
http://www.detailersdomain.com/swissvaxmystery.aspx
roflmao
At least their "pre-wax oil" is just $40.00 a pop...
http://www.detailersdomain.com/swiss...anerfluid.aspx
Nick - 89S4
08-12-2009, 07:11 PM
#23
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If price is any indicator, you'll need welder's glasses to look at your car when your done:
http://www.eshine.ca/zymol_vintage_g...320.php?cat=11
Of course, that's in Canadian dollars - so it is about $34.00 U.S.
But there's free refills for life!
http://www.eshine.ca/zymol_vintage_g...320.php?cat=11
Of course, that's in Canadian dollars - so it is about $34.00 U.S.
But there's free refills for life!
08-12-2009, 07:41 PM
#24
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You would have to live an awfully long time and use a ton of product to get a proper ROI
08-12-2009, 09:11 PM
#25
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Soooooooooooooo, the $579.00 wax is the CHEAP STUFF???
$2700CA wax. And to think, there are starving people in Africa who have to settle for Turtle Wax...
Free refills for life though.
Nick - 89S4
$2700CA wax. And to think, there are starving people in Africa who have to settle for Turtle Wax...
Free refills for life though.
Nick - 89S4
08-12-2009, 10:52 PM
#27
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08-12-2009, 11:03 PM
#28
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Okay, so I've been reading all week about my options. I've read a little about some who choose, after proper buffing/polishing to apply a sealant THEN a real wax. The logic is that the sealant protects the paint, and the wax makes it a bit shinier than the sealant alone.
Unlike some, I intend to beat the crap out of my car. Rain, snow, even if Armageddon comes, and it rains frogs - I'll never hesitate, in theory, to drive my 928, assuming I can get it working again...
Does anyone here have anything to say about using BOTH sealant and a quality, harder wax? I'd like to say I'll wax it often, but you never know. Would the use of both, after an obsessive polishing be a bad idea?
Nick - 89S4
Unlike some, I intend to beat the crap out of my car. Rain, snow, even if Armageddon comes, and it rains frogs - I'll never hesitate, in theory, to drive my 928, assuming I can get it working again...
Does anyone here have anything to say about using BOTH sealant and a quality, harder wax? I'd like to say I'll wax it often, but you never know. Would the use of both, after an obsessive polishing be a bad idea?
Nick - 89S4
08-13-2009, 09:09 AM
#29
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My opinion....not that it matters 
Carnauba Wax - 4 - 5 weeks with two light coats. This is based upon my DD which sits outside. Beading remains strong through 5 weeks and by the sixth week it needs to be rewaxed.
Synthetic - 8 weeks with one coat. Same observations as above.
I prefer the look of Carnauba and I also prefer the non stick surface that carnauba leaves behind for extended periods.
On the 928 I only use carnauba and I apply 3 - 4 light coats. Since it doesn't see rain the wax lasts indefinitely but I tend to reapply every 4 weeks anyways.
The wax build up really helps with bug removal and makes wiping the car significantly easier.
The Carnauba performance is based upon a higher end carnauba like P21S or Pinnacle Souveran.
Carnauba Wax - 4 - 5 weeks with two light coats. This is based upon my DD which sits outside. Beading remains strong through 5 weeks and by the sixth week it needs to be rewaxed.
Synthetic - 8 weeks with one coat. Same observations as above.
I prefer the look of Carnauba and I also prefer the non stick surface that carnauba leaves behind for extended periods.
On the 928 I only use carnauba and I apply 3 - 4 light coats. Since it doesn't see rain the wax lasts indefinitely but I tend to reapply every 4 weeks anyways.
The wax build up really helps with bug removal and makes wiping the car significantly easier. The Carnauba performance is based upon a higher end carnauba like P21S or Pinnacle Souveran.
08-13-2009, 09:48 AM
#30
Nordschleife Master
My favourite lazy-mans combo for turning guards pink into guards red is:
The Menzerna hi-cut polish is nice because its a high-gloss, medium cut, so you don't need to worry about using other compounds after cutting to get it shiny (read: good for lazy polishers). The first time you use it it'll make your paint properly red, and clean up a lot of the swirls and finer scratches, without too much effort. Use the same stuff for the next 3 or 4 polishes at least, to remove the deeper scratches over time - then switch to a less abrasive polish; but that first time will amaze you.
Guards Red is pretty tough in the years before it got clear coat (90+ I think). I don't think you could burn it with a random orbital without really trying. If you're worried, switch if off and feel the pad from time to time, to gauge how hot its getting, and also how dry the pad is - its a good idea to use a spray bottle of water to mist the pad from time to time to keep the polish working.
Then once you've polished it, use Meguairs NXT Tech Wax - preserves the easily-oxidised Guards Red well for a looong time, even in the extreme Aussie levels of UV.
- Wash with decent dish soap (Morning Fresh / Dawn / whatever) the first time to remove all grease and wax on the car (use proper car shampoo in future tho')
- Meguairs clay-bar and Quick Detail (sold as a pack) all over the car
- Porter Cable (I have a rebadged PC sold under the Meguairs brand) with:
- Menzerna PO106FF Hi Cut polish
- Edge Yellow or Festool Orange buffing pad (medium-cut pad)
The Menzerna hi-cut polish is nice because its a high-gloss, medium cut, so you don't need to worry about using other compounds after cutting to get it shiny (read: good for lazy polishers). The first time you use it it'll make your paint properly red, and clean up a lot of the swirls and finer scratches, without too much effort. Use the same stuff for the next 3 or 4 polishes at least, to remove the deeper scratches over time - then switch to a less abrasive polish; but that first time will amaze you.
Guards Red is pretty tough in the years before it got clear coat (90+ I think). I don't think you could burn it with a random orbital without really trying. If you're worried, switch if off and feel the pad from time to time, to gauge how hot its getting, and also how dry the pad is - its a good idea to use a spray bottle of water to mist the pad from time to time to keep the polish working.
Then once you've polished it, use Meguairs NXT Tech Wax - preserves the easily-oxidised Guards Red well for a looong time, even in the extreme Aussie levels of UV.
I have a Porter Cable that's been sitting in my garage for over a year now. I've been reluctant to use it for fear of ruining my paint, plus my head swims everytime I try to figure out how to use it, which compounds to use, which pads, etc.
I was advised to practice on an old car first, which I think is great advice, but I think I'm going to let a professional detailer bring the paint back to life. I've got some bad fading and he comes highly recommended. Not cheap, but I think it will be worth it.
I was advised to practice on an old car first, which I think is great advice, but I think I'm going to let a professional detailer bring the paint back to life. I've got some bad fading and he comes highly recommended. Not cheap, but I think it will be worth it.