81 OB running bad need advice(Change to Timing Belt Issue)
08-17-2009, 11:42 AM
#77
Team Owner
from these pictures it appears as though a square tooth belt was installed into a HTD set of gears, note all of the rubber chips.
Its time to start over with your belt run. you need a new set of gears that includes,
2 cam gears
1 oil pump gear thats steel
1 crank drive gear
all of the gears should be round tooth.
With the belt off then you also need to spin the water pump if the shaft is loose then this also need replacement
With the belt off it is a good time to replace the front main seal and the oil pump O ring and radial seal
Check the bushings on the tensioner pivot if the tensioner arm is wiggling then these as well the pivot bolt need replacement.
Dont forget to also inspect the tensioner as well at the least it need a new boot and the rear gasket.
Use STP to fill the tensioner.
And to reassemble the oil pump, the oil pump has a beveled outer gear this must face to the front of the car and the dots on the gears face to the rear.
When refitting the new steel gear on the oil pump then you also remove the 1mm spacer thats used on the aluminum gear
Its time to start over with your belt run. you need a new set of gears that includes,
2 cam gears
1 oil pump gear thats steel
1 crank drive gear
all of the gears should be round tooth.
With the belt off then you also need to spin the water pump if the shaft is loose then this also need replacement
With the belt off it is a good time to replace the front main seal and the oil pump O ring and radial seal
Check the bushings on the tensioner pivot if the tensioner arm is wiggling then these as well the pivot bolt need replacement.
Dont forget to also inspect the tensioner as well at the least it need a new boot and the rear gasket.
Use STP to fill the tensioner.
And to reassemble the oil pump, the oil pump has a beveled outer gear this must face to the front of the car and the dots on the gears face to the rear.
When refitting the new steel gear on the oil pump then you also remove the 1mm spacer thats used on the aluminum gear
08-18-2009, 01:48 AM
#78
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Thanks Merlin. Great advice. I've been searching the forums but can't find a write up for the 16V engines. Anyone have a link for it?
09-16-2009, 10:54 PM
#79
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Ok guys wanted to update you on this. First off let me say thank you to all those that helped me with this. Car is running great with better power too. I did so much on it let me see if I can remember it all. Pulled the AFM cleaned the path of the arm and bent the arm so it would ride in a different spot. Cleaned the contacts of the tempII sensor. Found a possibly bad wire at the 14pin connector. Changed the cap, rotor, fuel filter, and large O-Ring below the AFM. Car is running excellent. No rich exhaust and very powerful. After looking at the new rotor the old rotor was very worn. I did find or create a bad plug wire in the process so that is going to need to be changed. Even with it stuck back in to the boot the car is running great. No I have not done the cam gears yet but soon now that I have the car running good again. Thanks again for the help on his. Jason
