How to start a 10 year garaged 82 928?
08-03-2009, 08:10 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
How to start a 10 year garaged 82 928?
I am looking to buy a 928. Found a 1982 928 automatic that has supposedly been parked in a garage for 10 years without being started. I have never owned a Porsche (53yo) but this sounds like it could be major trouble.
Anyone had experience resurrecting a 928 that has sat that long?
Seller has it listed for $3600 which seems way high considering it has 80K miles and needs a paint job to boot.
Thanks
Jim
Anyone had experience resurrecting a 928 that has sat that long?
Seller has it listed for $3600 which seems way high considering it has 80K miles and needs a paint job to boot.
Thanks
Jim
Last edited by jwillman; 08-03-2009 at 08:48 AM.
08-03-2009, 08:23 AM
#2
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Its probably doable. I've started a 32V that sat 10 years. There is a methodology to it. Cleaning ground connections and certain terminals, fuel and fluid drain/refill. Cap and rotor cleaning. Plug areas on valve covers (cam covers) vacuumed and brushed to remove grit and keep it out of cylinders, then plugs out and a shot of Marvel mystery oil or just oil and soak for a couple days before turning over (just what I do for the rings).
Water pump will probably leak almost immediately and should be replaced with timing belt.
Motor mounts probably sunk and should be replaced with solid rubber ones. Fan blades probably close to lower edge of shroud.
Questions like why did it sit, has it ever overheated, was timing belt ever replaced....
I think the price is way too high for such a non runner. It would have to be pristine special in lots of ways to justify that. Just my experience with them the last couple years.
My last two parked, non-runners, both 32 V cars with lower mileage than this one, cost $3700. Combined. Both ran with minimal, but very targeted, work.
This one is a 16V. Simpler and great motor also. Good place to start. A little more straightforward to deal with and faster path to enjoyment.
Two weeks ago I stood with my hand on an 88 5spd that ran beautifully and changed hands for the money your owner is asking. Guy jumped in it and drove it 1000 miles to its new home. Be discriminating, unlike many of us on our first ones.
Water pump will probably leak almost immediately and should be replaced with timing belt.
Motor mounts probably sunk and should be replaced with solid rubber ones. Fan blades probably close to lower edge of shroud.
Questions like why did it sit, has it ever overheated, was timing belt ever replaced....
I think the price is way too high for such a non runner. It would have to be pristine special in lots of ways to justify that. Just my experience with them the last couple years.
My last two parked, non-runners, both 32 V cars with lower mileage than this one, cost $3700. Combined. Both ran with minimal, but very targeted, work.
This one is a 16V. Simpler and great motor also. Good place to start. A little more straightforward to deal with and faster path to enjoyment.
Two weeks ago I stood with my hand on an 88 5spd that ran beautifully and changed hands for the money your owner is asking. Guy jumped in it and drove it 1000 miles to its new home. Be discriminating, unlike many of us on our first ones.
Last edited by Landseer; 08-03-2009 at 08:51 AM.
08-03-2009, 09:46 AM
#3
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I must admit.....
I've done this more then once....
I still say go for it... BUT...
Go offer $1,000 and let them know your interested...
They own a shark they haven't had running for 10 years...
Let it sit for awhile... it obviously isn't being started and driven away...
Take a deep breath and rethink this... there are numerous reasons this car may not run - from the "FISH ON" fuel pump relay... to the "you call this having fun?" head gasket... not to mention you have no idea if the transmission even works - assume nothing does and your going to rebuild a entire car...
You are headed in for a restoration at great expense - not buying a running car from them. I've bought into both for the same cost and still love it.
The passenger side rear has a fuel tank... under this is a molded piece of metal that covers the fuel pump. You will need a 10mm socket and 1/4 ratchet, undo the two nuts at the top of the plate, pull back to get the plate loose from the studs on the straps... and pull the plate toward you - or aft.
Your looking at a fuel pump and filter. At this point you will see a hose clamp holding the fuel hose to the intake of the pump... with a BIG container, drain the fuel. Have a 3/8 extension close by to plug the hose end when your container gets full.. so you can transfer to 5 gallon jugs. If the car had been sitting for ten years - even your old toro lawn mower won't run on what drains out. Once you have drained all the fuel, you can remove the tank and change the fuel hoses on top of the tank, and the filter below.... after your done with that, add fresh fuel into the tank, and let it drain a half gallon or so run thru the fuel pump - now..... reconnect the hoses.
Head into the engine compartment..... replace ALL the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses...
As you are replacing said hoses, add two feet to the fuel supply line and put the end in a 5 gallon bucket... this is assuming you have already replaced the battery..
Have a friend turn the key to the first position and check for fuel flow, while cleaning out that line.... Now cut the line to length, using whats left to replace the other short segments.
Dude - while this might start the car - you aren't nearly ready to drive farther then up a trailer....
There is at least a couple weeks worth of work, from changing the timing belt, WP, and every seal and piece of rubber - from the intake removal and refresh, to the steering rack seals and new tires, and probable suspension work too.....
Honestly - While these cars can be picked up for 4 or 5 grand in good running condition...
If your wanting to drive - spend a little more or wait until a runner shows up for that kind of money. We've got a '83 auto on the farm for $2,800 - it will drive across the country - it also needs paint, and interior work. (shameless plug)
Non runners can be found at $300 for one with the blown head gasket, to $1,000 for one that just needs a relay or fuel pump, and even at that you must be willing to invest a few grand just to revive them. At this point they are neglected for years and need paint, interiors, shocks, steering rack, tie rods, - and the list goes on and on. We need an icon for a wallet draining hundred dollar bills. This is why the destructor's end up with more parts then we could ever use.
Saving sharks on land ain't much different from swimming with them at sea - you stand a good chance of getting bit either way, but it's a wicked rush swimming with them.
Landseer tells it like it is - I just flew in and picked up a running 5spd - it took a good PPI from a friend and a afternoon of his help, (I wish we would have had more time to party
) and had a fantastic thousand mile trip home! Even this car is seeing a couple grand invested to sort it out mechanically, and a new interior... but these cars are a labor of love.
If you buy the car - find a knowledgeable person who is willing to spend lots of time at your place explaining what you need to do while you provide him plenty of beer - chances are he'll be tired of drinking and need a break about as often as your wallet gets tired of shrinking and needs a break too.
I've done this more then once....
I still say go for it... BUT...
Go offer $1,000 and let them know your interested...
They own a shark they haven't had running for 10 years...
Let it sit for awhile... it obviously isn't being started and driven away...
Take a deep breath and rethink this... there are numerous reasons this car may not run - from the "FISH ON" fuel pump relay... to the "you call this having fun?" head gasket... not to mention you have no idea if the transmission even works - assume nothing does and your going to rebuild a entire car...
You are headed in for a restoration at great expense - not buying a running car from them. I've bought into both for the same cost and still love it.
The passenger side rear has a fuel tank... under this is a molded piece of metal that covers the fuel pump. You will need a 10mm socket and 1/4 ratchet, undo the two nuts at the top of the plate, pull back to get the plate loose from the studs on the straps... and pull the plate toward you - or aft.
Your looking at a fuel pump and filter. At this point you will see a hose clamp holding the fuel hose to the intake of the pump... with a BIG container, drain the fuel. Have a 3/8 extension close by to plug the hose end when your container gets full.. so you can transfer to 5 gallon jugs. If the car had been sitting for ten years - even your old toro lawn mower won't run on what drains out. Once you have drained all the fuel, you can remove the tank and change the fuel hoses on top of the tank, and the filter below.... after your done with that, add fresh fuel into the tank, and let it drain a half gallon or so run thru the fuel pump - now..... reconnect the hoses.
Head into the engine compartment..... replace ALL the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses...
As you are replacing said hoses, add two feet to the fuel supply line and put the end in a 5 gallon bucket... this is assuming you have already replaced the battery..
Have a friend turn the key to the first position and check for fuel flow, while cleaning out that line.... Now cut the line to length, using whats left to replace the other short segments.
Dude - while this might start the car - you aren't nearly ready to drive farther then up a trailer....
There is at least a couple weeks worth of work, from changing the timing belt, WP, and every seal and piece of rubber - from the intake removal and refresh, to the steering rack seals and new tires, and probable suspension work too.....
Honestly - While these cars can be picked up for 4 or 5 grand in good running condition...
If your wanting to drive - spend a little more or wait until a runner shows up for that kind of money. We've got a '83 auto on the farm for $2,800 - it will drive across the country - it also needs paint, and interior work. (shameless plug
)Non runners can be found at $300 for one with the blown head gasket, to $1,000 for one that just needs a relay or fuel pump, and even at that you must be willing to invest a few grand just to revive them. At this point they are neglected for years and need paint, interiors, shocks, steering rack, tie rods, - and the list goes on and on. We need an icon for a wallet draining hundred dollar bills. This is why the destructor's end up with more parts then we could ever use.
Saving sharks on land ain't much different from swimming with them at sea - you stand a good chance of getting bit either way, but it's a wicked rush swimming with them.
Landseer tells it like it is - I just flew in and picked up a running 5spd - it took a good PPI from a friend and a afternoon of his help, (I wish we would have had more time to party
) and had a fantastic thousand mile trip home! Even this car is seeing a couple grand invested to sort it out mechanically, and a new interior... but these cars are a labor of love.If you buy the car - find a knowledgeable person who is willing to spend lots of time at your place explaining what you need to do while you provide him plenty of beer - chances are he'll be tired of drinking and need a break about as often as your wallet gets tired of shrinking and needs a break too.
08-03-2009, 10:01 AM
#4
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I'm a new owner as well and have only this advice. Like " E.F Hutton ", when these guys speak, you should listen! They can save you; time, money and tears. I also appreciate everyones help and advice on my current project. Thanks again.
08-03-2009, 10:39 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the informative replies. The ad for this car does mention that the timing belt and water pump had been changed within the last 100 miles. Of course that is still 10 years ago if the seller is accurate. Perhaps I have misunderstood and it has been running but garaged the last 10 years although that is not what he said but worth another call. He also has a shop manuals and belt guage. There is another 1981 928 in the loacl area that is running but needs a nose panel, brakes (he has the parts) and TLC asking $1500 or a completely running and very nice looking 1989 928 S4 for $9500. It is looking better all the time
Last edited by jwillman; 08-03-2009 at 12:13 PM.
08-03-2009, 11:23 AM
#6
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Even if you get it for free, you'll be upside down financially soon. The 82 auto is going to top out at maybe $6000. Paint, and interior work, not to mention the right restoration of the engine after sitting is going to be well over that, unless you do all the work, including paint and body.
The problem with sitting so long is rust, but since the engine is Al that's not as much of a problem. The rings may stick a bit, but you can help it out by taking out all the plugs and spraying some WD-40 or PB blaster in there and letting it sit for a while. Then turn the engine around by hand for a few turns. The cams may also have been rusted, and this will cause some serious cam or lifter damage in short order. If you have or can borrow a borescope looking in the cylinders is always helpful. Taking off the cam covers and lubing the cams would be ideal.
I think the 82 has CIS and if so, they don't like sitting for a long time. The diaphram usually get brittle and fails very soon after being started. Of course, change all the fluids first, including the trans fluid. Rubber parts, and particularly the fuel lines have to be changed as they've dried out.
Like I said, unless you get it for free, financially it's a looser. Even if you get it free, after bringing it back to life, you'll spend many hours and some parts before it's back to glory. Maybe look for a decent running/looking example like my 86.5 for $4500(shameless plug).
I'm in Ft Worth area if you're ever up this way, come visit the DFW group. Lot's of experts around here.
The problem with sitting so long is rust, but since the engine is Al that's not as much of a problem. The rings may stick a bit, but you can help it out by taking out all the plugs and spraying some WD-40 or PB blaster in there and letting it sit for a while. Then turn the engine around by hand for a few turns. The cams may also have been rusted, and this will cause some serious cam or lifter damage in short order. If you have or can borrow a borescope looking in the cylinders is always helpful. Taking off the cam covers and lubing the cams would be ideal.
I think the 82 has CIS and if so, they don't like sitting for a long time. The diaphram usually get brittle and fails very soon after being started. Of course, change all the fluids first, including the trans fluid. Rubber parts, and particularly the fuel lines have to be changed as they've dried out.
Like I said, unless you get it for free, financially it's a looser. Even if you get it free, after bringing it back to life, you'll spend many hours and some parts before it's back to glory. Maybe look for a decent running/looking example like my 86.5 for $4500(shameless plug).
I'm in Ft Worth area if you're ever up this way, come visit the DFW group. Lot's of experts around here.
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08-03-2009, 11:51 AM
#8
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Even if you get it for free, you'll be upside down financially soon. The 82 auto is going to top out at maybe $6000. Paint, and interior work, not to mention the right restoration of the engine after sitting is going to be well over that, unless you do all the work, including paint and body.
The problem with sitting so long is rust, but since the engine is Al that's not as much of a problem. The rings may stick a bit, but you can help it out by taking out all the plugs and spraying some WD-40 or PB blaster in there and letting it sit for a while. Then turn the engine around by hand for a few turns. The cams may also have been rusted, and this will cause some serious cam or lifter damage in short order. If you have or can borrow a borescope looking in the cylinders is always helpful. Taking off the cam covers and lubing the cams would be ideal.
I think the 82 has CIS and if so, they don't like sitting for a long time. The diaphram usually get brittle and fails very soon after being started. Of course, change all the fluids first, including the trans fluid. Rubber parts, and particularly the fuel lines have to be changed as they've dried out.
Like I said, unless you get it for free, financially it's a looser. Even if you get it free, after bringing it back to life, you'll spend many hours and some parts before it's back to glory. Maybe look for a decent running/looking example like my 86.5 for $4500(shameless plug).
I'm in Ft Worth area if you're ever up this way, come visit the DFW group. Lot's of experts around here.
The problem with sitting so long is rust, but since the engine is Al that's not as much of a problem. The rings may stick a bit, but you can help it out by taking out all the plugs and spraying some WD-40 or PB blaster in there and letting it sit for a while. Then turn the engine around by hand for a few turns. The cams may also have been rusted, and this will cause some serious cam or lifter damage in short order. If you have or can borrow a borescope looking in the cylinders is always helpful. Taking off the cam covers and lubing the cams would be ideal.
I think the 82 has CIS and if so, they don't like sitting for a long time. The diaphram usually get brittle and fails very soon after being started. Of course, change all the fluids first, including the trans fluid. Rubber parts, and particularly the fuel lines have to be changed as they've dried out.
Like I said, unless you get it for free, financially it's a looser. Even if you get it free, after bringing it back to life, you'll spend many hours and some parts before it's back to glory. Maybe look for a decent running/looking example like my 86.5 for $4500(shameless plug).
I'm in Ft Worth area if you're ever up this way, come visit the DFW group. Lot's of experts around here.
08-03-2009, 11:56 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
Even if it starts, the problems will follow.
Be careful - you are literally taking on someone else's liability by purchasing a non-running 928. Consider any non-running 928 to be under water until proven otherwise. You can easily spend double what the thing could be worth to get it to the point where someone would actually buy it... as in, spend $10k to be able to sell it for $5k.
Be careful - you are literally taking on someone else's liability by purchasing a non-running 928. Consider any non-running 928 to be under water until proven otherwise. You can easily spend double what the thing could be worth to get it to the point where someone would actually buy it... as in, spend $10k to be able to sell it for $5k.
08-03-2009, 12:33 PM
#10
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Find a running car. Mine sat for 8 years and if I had known then what I know now, I would have laughed and walked away. You'll get one thing working and something else will need attention.
Last edited by Joe '87 S4; 08-03-2009 at 06:47 PM.
08-03-2009, 01:38 PM
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08-03-2009, 02:51 PM
#14
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Thats a Army MH-47 refueling off a C130. Refuel was normally at lower altitudes (below 5000) so service cieling was not an issue but the CH/MH-47 had way more power than the CH-46.
08-03-2009, 03:58 PM
#15
Nordschleife Master
After sitting 10 years how you start it is you don't. 
Flatbed or trailer to a place to work on it for a few months, then maybe it starts.
OTOH just because the seller is asking $3600 doesn't mean $1k cash offered in front of his wife won't be accepted. My concern with this car is that it just might be accepted.
In the same vein, just because the odometer says 80k, if paint and interior don't agree I would believe them instead.
Flatbed or trailer to a place to work on it for a few months, then maybe it starts.
OTOH just because the seller is asking $3600 doesn't mean $1k cash offered in front of his wife won't be accepted. My concern with this car is that it just might be accepted.
In the same vein, just because the odometer says 80k, if paint and interior don't agree I would believe them instead.