Seafoam Notes
08-03-2009, 01:31 AM
#16
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If you take your air filter top off and remove the air filter, you can run a long hose or a long nose funnel and set it PAST your MAF wire. This will allow the seafoam to clean the TB and everything else as well, but NOT run through your hot wire.
You should NOT EVER have a fireball in your intake, you clearly have something off here and you should investigate this.
You should NOT EVER have a fireball in your intake, you clearly have something off here and you should investigate this.
08-03-2009, 02:10 AM
#17
There have been reports that US 85-86 intakes "POP". Basically the engine backfires and pops the ends off causing slight dents in the hood. Usually occurs after stop and start driving... probably the reason these intakes were only used for 2 years. Someone else may know the reason or can explain the cause I've not been willing to run any cleaner through ny 86 intake in fear of a fireball.
Yeah I have dimples on my hood from this...... search for my post. Ist sickining.
08-03-2009, 03:08 AM
#18
Nordschleife Master
08-03-2009, 03:37 AM
#19
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08-03-2009, 05:15 AM
#20
Nordschleife Master
Amazingly, 60 threads cropped up with dimples. More than I get with a lot of more technical searches
08-03-2009, 03:40 PM
#21
Racer
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There should be a label on top of your radiator that shows the firing order. I wouldn't run the engine until you are certain that the plug wires are all connected properly.
The explosion is almost always caused by having the plug leads connected to the wrong terminal.
If you don't have the sticker:
As you stand in front of the car facing the engine, on your left hand side are cylinders 1-4. Is at the front, then 2, then 3, and then 4, as you move back to the firewall. On the right hand side facing the engine, you start at the front, and moving back, 5-8.
On the distributor cap on the left hand side, going from left to right:
1-7-6-4
On the right hand side:
2-5-8-3
The explosion is almost always caused by having the plug leads connected to the wrong terminal.
If you don't have the sticker:
As you stand in front of the car facing the engine, on your left hand side are cylinders 1-4. Is at the front, then 2, then 3, and then 4, as you move back to the firewall. On the right hand side facing the engine, you start at the front, and moving back, 5-8.
On the distributor cap on the left hand side, going from left to right:
1-7-6-4
On the right hand side:
2-5-8-3
Originally Posted by MarkRobinson
when looking at the front of the engine, on the left side, your clyinders are 1-4, and looking at the driver's side bank, the cylinders are 5-8.
On the disty caps, the cap on the passenger's side, when viewed from the front of the car, is
4-6-7-1, and when looking at the driver's side cap, the leads are 5-2-3-8
So, 2, 3, 6, & 7 all cross over (the longer 4 leads). 1 & 5 are the shortest, 4 & 8 are the medium ones.
On the disty caps, the cap on the passenger's side, when viewed from the front of the car, is
4-6-7-1, and when looking at the driver's side cap, the leads are 5-2-3-8
So, 2, 3, 6, & 7 all cross over (the longer 4 leads). 1 & 5 are the shortest, 4 & 8 are the medium ones.
08-03-2009, 05:47 PM
#23
Racer
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Got it - from the original sequence, I had 1 and 4 leads reversed. Runs nice and smooth now, but I can't really enjoy it because now that I can tell it's fixed and put the foot down to play a little, I got a belt ten warning.
This car sure is good about stringing you along! If the tensioner were on and the engine was missing, I'd think "Yeah, I'll just park it and wait a bit before I spend $400 or so on the timing belt stuff." Now that it's running nicely, it's like "How soon can I get it here?"
This car sure is good about stringing you along!
If the tensioner were on and the engine was missing, I'd think "Yeah, I'll just park it and wait a bit before I spend $400 or so on the timing belt stuff." Now that it's running nicely, it's like "How soon can I get it here?"
08-03-2009, 06:01 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Got it - from the original sequence, I had 1 and 4 leads reversed. Runs nice and smooth now, but I can't really enjoy it because now that I can tell it's fixed and put the foot down to play a little, I got a belt ten warning.
This car sure is good about stringing you along! If the tensioner were on and the engine was missing, I'd think "Yeah, I'll just park it and wait a bit before I spend $400 or so on the timing belt stuff." Now that it's running nicely, it's like "How soon can I get it here?"
This car sure is good about stringing you along!
If the tensioner were on and the engine was missing, I'd think "Yeah, I'll just park it and wait a bit before I spend $400 or so on the timing belt stuff." Now that it's running nicely, it's like "How soon can I get it here?"I sent the kids and wife to the local club pool and checked plus adjusted my belt tension before they made it back home.
That was my first time.
Now that I'm over my fear factor, I could do it again in under an hour. Drain the radiator, undo the upper radiator hoses, move the air pump hose out of the way, unhook the fans and lift the fan shroud out, unplug the spark plug wires, undo the distributor cap on the passenger (U.S.) side, unhook a couple of electrical connections, then two bolts to undo to pull out the timing belt cover from the passenger side.
Put a $12 Krikit tension meter on it, undid the 17mm tensioner lock nut, tightened the tensioner (17mm head clockwise), held the tensioner head while tightening up the tensioner lock nut, rechecked the tension, passed, then put her all back together.
Not too tough.
Of course, I was parked in the garage in my wife's parking spot and as I was removing the radiator shroud a brief panic gripped me screaming "Oh My God! Am I going to get this all put back together before they return from swimming?!"
I got over it. You're just turning a few bolts for the whole process. My fear proved to be irrational. It's German. It all comes apart and goes back together just like it's supposed to.
The moral here being: Go check your timing belt! It may be that you just need a simple tension adjustment, and it doesn't take that much effort to check it (and potentially correct it).
08-03-2009, 06:04 PM
#25
Racer
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Ah, nice. I wasn't really scared of it - I just thought that when the light came on, it meant you were going to be replacing, not just retensioning it. No worries then, I'll take care of it tomorrow.
08-03-2009, 06:10 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
Depends on mileage, age, waterpump, belt condition, tensioner condition, etc.
Also, someone was telling me that you're supposed to fill the tensioner with oil when you check the belt tension, for whatever that's worth in your particular situation.
08-03-2009, 07:35 PM
#27
Drifting
If you don't know when the timing belt was changed, then you should probably change it. But check the oil level in tensioner to hold you over. I think it's supposed to use 90w or something like that.
