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Radiator cooling fans voltage? GTS

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Old 07-20-2009, 01:34 PM
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Herman K
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Default Radiator cooling fans voltage? GTS

I'm replacing one of the fans as the bearing have become noisy. I alo have found that the plastic housing for my (two pole wih a red and yellow wire feed) slide on connectors ( stamped with VW Audio part # 171.906.231 are cracked/brittle) at the fan motors. I'm not sure if I'm getting the right voltage at this pint from the red wire should it be 12 volt or different depending on the required motor speed. What is best way to check this. Is ther a source for the VW connectors?
Old 07-20-2009, 01:38 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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12v. The parts are not cheap. I bought a pair or boots and white connector and it set me back ~40 @ Audi. VW was around the same @ the dealership.
Old 07-20-2009, 01:55 PM
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Herman K
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Default Can you confirm the part numbers...

Plastic plug 171.906.231 and the rubber boot 443 959 459 are does the numbers to order from the VW dealer?

Thanks
Old 07-20-2009, 02:24 PM
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Alan
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With the late model fan controller - the voltage is variable between 3 voltages: 0v, 12v and some intermediate value for "half speed"

The intermediate value is likely to be well above 6v (?).

Both fans should act the same: both off, both at half speed or both at full speed. If either fan fails the other should run at full speed. So if you ever see the fans doing something different - there is a problem.

Alan
Old 07-20-2009, 04:53 PM
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Herman K
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Default I'm not getting any voltage on one of the fans

Should I have a constant 12 volts at pin 1 & 4 of the controller that's located next to the hood release. I do have a constant 12 volt on one side at the CE panel for each fan with the fuses removed?
Old 07-20-2009, 05:01 PM
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Alan
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Yes pins 1 & 4 should be at battery voltage - these are fed directly from the battery via the 2 fan fuses on the CE panel and to the final stages - if these are much less than battery voltage then you likely have fuseholder connection issues on the CE panel check the voltages on each side of these fuses - use the little indents in the fuse body to test while the fuse is in circuit. Extra resistance that would drop voltage here also causes the fuse pins to get very hot and damage the panel... so act quickly here...

Replacement fuse-holder modules for the CE are available only as scrounged from other panels... (and you have to be careful about compatibility YTY).

Alan

Last edited by Alan; 07-20-2009 at 07:37 PM.
Old 07-20-2009, 05:26 PM
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I stock the connector and the rubber cover $4 and $6.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:48 PM
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Kevin in Atlanta
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Originally Posted by ROG100
I stock the connector and the rubber cover $4 and $6.
Damn! I got royally screwed on my connectors - but they were plated in gold.
Old 07-21-2009, 01:41 PM
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Herman K
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Default No voltage to fuse # 29 tracing help appreciated

I'm not getting voltage to fuse #29 at the point marked on the attached picture.
Does this go straight from here to the battery or is there an other connector (located) in between the I can check?

Last edited by Herman K; 05-29-2010 at 06:31 PM.
Old 07-21-2009, 03:13 PM
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Herman - both of these fuse inputs are direct dedicated feeders just for the fans, They are routed to and bolt directly to the expanded battery + lug - check those connections are clean & tight. However these should be on plugs T25 (fuse 29) & T24 (fuse30) so one of the ones you indicated (B something?) seems not to be the right one...?

Note that the outputs of the fuses are B22 (fuse 29) and B23 (fuse 30) so maybe its that...

Alan
Old 07-21-2009, 04:16 PM
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Herman K
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Default Alan your right...

Thanks for pointing that out! The connections are at plug T pin 24 & 25 and now both fans are getting 5.2 volt (engine cold) and run with the intake sensor by-passed, temprature slider at recirculating and AC on. All this started with the bearings in on of my fans going bad and one time and blowing its fuse. First I was going to replace one fan motor but I now hace decided to both of them.

Thanks for your help



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