A/c pump installation
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
A/c pump installation
I'm getting around to finally putting an a/c pump and new evap, etc., back on my 81 OB ( Thanks to Brendan C) - Pump has lines attached - my old ones are long gone - and it looks like easiest way to install is pull radiator for easier access -
Anyone have any advice, comments , WYAIT, etc.
Cheers
Anyone have any advice, comments , WYAIT, etc.
Cheers
#2
Easy was is to pull the rad, or at least move it enough to route that house through there to the drier. Make sure you have all new o-rings, I'm assuming the dryer is new also.
Hell, while you are at it, change the expansion valve (TXV) and the 4 o-rings in there, clean the evaporator fins and you won't have any problems for years.
Hell, while you are at it, change the expansion valve (TXV) and the 4 o-rings in there, clean the evaporator fins and you won't have any problems for years.
#3
Rennlist Member
I had the rad out for another project and attached the new a/c compressor and hoses (thx Roger) with no issue.
As Sean mentions use new lubed Orings and the other WYAI's.
Be sure the compressor is filled with the correct compatible oil for the a/c system.
As Sean mentions use new lubed Orings and the other WYAI's.
Be sure the compressor is filled with the correct compatible oil for the a/c system.
#5
#7
Rennlist Member
I got rebuilt hoses through past the rad without much difficulty...
As an aside, I bought a used compressor and hoses (off an 82, mine is 83), had them rebuilt ready for reinstall. When I got to it, the hose from compressor to the body hose connection didnt fit - one was 18mm OD, the other was 16mm !!
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
As an aside, I bought a used compressor and hoses (off an 82, mine is 83), had them rebuilt ready for reinstall. When I got to it, the hose from compressor to the body hose connection didnt fit - one was 18mm OD, the other was 16mm !!
jp 83 Euro S AT 52k
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#8
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Most auto parts cary flush in a areosol can that is very easy to use with no worries about leaving any cleaner behind.
#9
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I'm waiting for someone to tell you not to use the DIY flush kits. From what I've read on these forums, the folks with A/C experience will suggest that if you want the system flushed, let a professional A/C shop do it, because most DIY flushes end up leaving more crap in the system than they actually remove. Most will recommend that if you don't have a full set of A/C equipment, you should let a professional do it. In the long run you will get better results and won't have to worry. The only reason to DIY is if you are sticking with r-12, which is evidently not a bad decision for the pre-S4 models owing to cooling fan capacity. I could not find a shop that would touch an R-12 system, through the front door or back door. You may find it equally difficult, in which case, you will have to DIY. In that event, I think the prevailing opinion is not to flush the system if you don't have the equipment. If you do decide to flush it yourself, I think the recommended flushing solvent is denatured alcohol (ethanol). If your system is already r-134, then let someone else fiddle with it. You have all the parts and such, and if you get lucky, you might find a shop willing to simply flush the parts you want flushed and not do anything else. Good luck!
EDIT: Also, if you flush, you will want to dry it out, and if I were to do it, I would get a heavy duty water trap/filter (like one used for painting cars) for an air compressor, dunk the thing in a dry ice/denatured alcohol bath, and then blow that air through the piece being flushed. It will come out bone dry, so you won't have to worry about water contamination, and you should be putting the system under vacuum for several hours anyway (you will get some water contamination from atmospheric water when you break the lines). The alternative is to use dry nitrogen or argon (argon is almost certainly cheaper, as it is a byproduct of liquid nitrogen and oxygen production)
EDIT: Also, if you flush, you will want to dry it out, and if I were to do it, I would get a heavy duty water trap/filter (like one used for painting cars) for an air compressor, dunk the thing in a dry ice/denatured alcohol bath, and then blow that air through the piece being flushed. It will come out bone dry, so you won't have to worry about water contamination, and you should be putting the system under vacuum for several hours anyway (you will get some water contamination from atmospheric water when you break the lines). The alternative is to use dry nitrogen or argon (argon is almost certainly cheaper, as it is a byproduct of liquid nitrogen and oxygen production)
#10
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Thread Starter
Thomas, I have a shop here in SD that will flush and refill a r-12 system, the old compressor was removed a year of more ago, and the replacement came of a working system, so i may have a chance at actually getting it back working again.
BTW, see you are moving to Palo Alto, bought my car there in 82, still have it!
Enjoy the area, many 928's there!
BTW, see you are moving to Palo Alto, bought my car there in 82, still have it!
Enjoy the area, many 928's there!