Very Rough Running
#17
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
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You might want to simply pull the distributor cap and make sure you have no moisture in there.
YMMV - but I have found that while the cars don't have an abundance of vacuum lines, if just a small one is loose they go into "high idle mode". It takes two small ones, or one large one to make a huge difference in running. The two larger ones on the passenger side throttle body, especially the lower one, have a tendency to break and not show.
Another little diagnostic hint is to plug the brake booster line while checking for vacuum leaks... Don't ask why I know this
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#18
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Thanks Mike. My wash was pretyy narrowly focused, and I didn't go near the distributor or any of the other electrical stuff - just sim ple green sprayed onto papertowels - engine bat was fairly clean to begin with. As to vac lines, I checked those and they are ok. It seems like it's likely the timing issue.
#19
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here are pics showing how far off the timing is between the main crank and the passenger side cam gear. I haven't pulled the driver's side yet. Also, just spoke to the PO to confirm no timing advances etc. Negative on that. Guess I got to dive in
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#20
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One of the camshafts might have sprung around when you were working with the belt?
Maybe pull the other side cover, line it all up, and it should be good.
Maybe pull the other side cover, line it all up, and it should be good.
#21
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The driver's side is at the same mark as the passenger side cam gear - so if it jumped, both sides jumped the same.
I can't get the driver's side cover off all the way tho - do I have to remove the power steering pump to do that? If so, do I need to remove the alternator too? I feel like I need to tear everything off just to access the t-belt. No wonder this job costs a fortune!!!
I can't get the driver's side cover off all the way tho - do I have to remove the power steering pump to do that? If so, do I need to remove the alternator too? I feel like I need to tear everything off just to access the t-belt. No wonder this job costs a fortune!!!
#22
Owns the Streets
Needs Camber
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Needs Camber
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How many miles on the cam gears.
Why does it look like there's cam gear wear peeking under the belt?
I know. I'm not helping.
Why does it look like there's cam gear wear peeking under the belt?
I know. I'm not helping.
#23
Nordschleife Master
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Try to turn the crank 360 deg,
The cams can show that the mark isnt close as they are 180 deg out because of rotation of the crank.
And your pictures dont show us much I am afraid.
To turn over the engine use a 27mm deep socket on a breaker bar. Dont use the starter it is almost impossible to get it to stop where you want it
The cams can show that the mark isnt close as they are 180 deg out because of rotation of the crank.
And your pictures dont show us much I am afraid.
To turn over the engine use a 27mm deep socket on a breaker bar. Dont use the starter it is almost impossible to get it to stop where you want it
#25
Team Owner
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On of 2 things has happened,
Either the timing belt has jumped,
or the damper rubber has broken and is letting the damper spin on the inner pulley
I would guess #1
since now the car is running poorly
To remove the DS cover, remove the Banjo bolt thats screwed into the top of the pump, yes fluid will leak out, yes you will make a mess, yes you can clean it up.
( You may in the end have to remove the pump to remove the center cover but thats more difficult)
If you dont have a 27mm deep socket then go to sears and buy one.
Pull the PS first plug #1 and see if the damper position equates to TDC. To do this use a long rod ( screwdriver will work to find the TDC of the #1 piston)
If this lines up then you have to pull the belt off and check the run, my guess is that either the pivot bolt has bent or thats the WP bearing is failing. Please take pictures and post
Either the timing belt has jumped,
or the damper rubber has broken and is letting the damper spin on the inner pulley
I would guess #1
since now the car is running poorly
To remove the DS cover, remove the Banjo bolt thats screwed into the top of the pump, yes fluid will leak out, yes you will make a mess, yes you can clean it up.
( You may in the end have to remove the pump to remove the center cover but thats more difficult)
If you dont have a 27mm deep socket then go to sears and buy one.
Pull the PS first plug #1 and see if the damper position equates to TDC. To do this use a long rod ( screwdriver will work to find the TDC of the #1 piston)
If this lines up then you have to pull the belt off and check the run, my guess is that either the pivot bolt has bent or thats the WP bearing is failing. Please take pictures and post
#26
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Thanks guys - buttoning it all up now - I've had great help from Mike (Firemed), who talked me thru the realignment of the cam gears live on the phone, and also from the other Mike (Greywolf) who also helped with the job description on the phone.
I do have the tools, thank goodness, or you're right Stan, I would've had to go and buy them. The TB/WP job was just done by a reputable shop just before I got the car (about 2500 miles ago). The WP is good, as are the various rollers, etc. The cam gears are fine too - only 52000 on the clock.
I was just trying to check the tension, and I think I created this mess myself by using the starter to bump the main crank shaft, when it wouldn't initially budge. The belt was loose, and it jumped. The rest has been trying to get it back together. The hard part is done, just trying to put it all back together and fire it up. May not happen this eve, we'll see.
PS - Chris - I don't recognize you without a red car in your avatar
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I was just trying to check the tension, and I think I created this mess myself by using the starter to bump the main crank shaft, when it wouldn't initially budge. The belt was loose, and it jumped. The rest has been trying to get it back together. The hard part is done, just trying to put it all back together and fire it up. May not happen this eve, we'll see.
PS - Chris - I don't recognize you without a red car in your avatar
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#27
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
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You have two reasons to consider yourself lucky...
It's a 16 valve car...
But the most important one is....
When most guys wives say they are going to help them tighten the belt...
They normally have something different in mind when they get their hand in there, and aren't as nice about it as your's sounded on the phone.![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
She's a keeper
It's a 16 valve car...
But the most important one is....
When most guys wives say they are going to help them tighten the belt...
They normally have something different in mind when they get their hand in there, and aren't as nice about it as your's sounded on the phone.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
She's a keeper
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#28
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Thread Starter
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![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
Yes she is....she enjoys helping and riding!
Back to work for me....
#29
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The driver's cam cover will come off with the power steering pump and the radiator hose in place. Takes a little persuasion, but that radiator hose is tougher than you think. It is easier without the hose, but still possible.