New 928 Owner
06-22-2009, 07:16 PM
#31
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Thanks for the support!
I love the needy cars!
I enjoy wrenching on them as much as driving them!
I will be posting more pictures tonight. The front end is pretty well stripped... As it's not running so pushing it back into my garage is an adventure!
I will most likely finish gutting the interior this week.
I discovered as well that the windshield either leaked or whistled... not sure which but somebody had a good time with clear silicone on the driver top corner of the windscreen... The window is in good shape... aside from pitting but nothing serious? Anybody know off hand how much it costs to replace the non antenna windshield?? In order to paint it properly I may pull all the windows... Just depends on time and $$
I love the needy cars!
I enjoy wrenching on them as much as driving them!
I will be posting more pictures tonight. The front end is pretty well stripped... As it's not running so pushing it back into my garage is an adventure!
I will most likely finish gutting the interior this week.
I discovered as well that the windshield either leaked or whistled... not sure which but somebody had a good time with clear silicone on the driver top corner of the windscreen... The window is in good shape... aside from pitting but nothing serious? Anybody know off hand how much it costs to replace the non antenna windshield?? In order to paint it properly I may pull all the windows... Just depends on time and $$
06-22-2009, 07:22 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
The gutter strip fits over a bead on the roof seam, but on a repainted car chances are good it is now glued in with old paint. Thats going to be annoyingly true for many otherwise easy to remove clips etc.
Harbor Freight sells three different sets of nylon trim removers, getting all three sets isn't a bad idea. At the rear where the screw is your trim strip may already be a little lifted up, so I would start there. The trick is not bending the trim, as it will be very hard to unbend. Slip a narrow nylon wedge between the roof and trim forcing it away from the body (not up or down, just to the side), then just keep slowly plowing forward.
Here is a pict of the bead with the trim removed.
*** take this with a grain of salt, elderly memory in action. ***
Harbor Freight sells three different sets of nylon trim removers, getting all three sets isn't a bad idea. At the rear where the screw is your trim strip may already be a little lifted up, so I would start there. The trick is not bending the trim, as it will be very hard to unbend. Slip a narrow nylon wedge between the roof and trim forcing it away from the body (not up or down, just to the side), then just keep slowly plowing forward.
Here is a pict of the bead with the trim removed.
*** take this with a grain of salt, elderly memory in action. ***
06-22-2009, 07:51 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
Regarding criticism, regardless of what you choose to do, you will get all the support in doing it that I can provide, even including never saying I told you so if it doesn't work out as expected. The flip side is that up front I will probably tell you what I think, perhaps disagree with you, and attempt to make a few points to clarify what I am saying, but I won't argue about it unless you want to. 
I'll say my piece, then shut up and help however you end up doing it.
For perspective I'm past $12k on my $3k 83 that was running and being driven with a very nice original interior and paint, and I am not done, maybe 80%.
I'll say my piece, then shut up and help however you end up doing it.For perspective I'm past $12k on my $3k 83 that was running and being driven with a very nice original interior and paint, and I am not done, maybe 80%.
06-22-2009, 08:48 PM
#34
Nordschleife Master
No fuel to the pump, no reason to blame the pump. First get fuel running to it and a full 12v+. If it still doesn't run, try reversing the leads as it may be clogged.
Some early cars have a fuel pump up inside the tank, others a secondary pump in the fender. If yours doesn't have the in tank pump it should have a filter screen. I suggest draining the fuel and having the tank flushed out, then replace all the rubber fuel hoses when the tank goes back in.
Some early cars have a fuel pump up inside the tank, others a secondary pump in the fender. If yours doesn't have the in tank pump it should have a filter screen. I suggest draining the fuel and having the tank flushed out, then replace all the rubber fuel hoses when the tank goes back in.
9V is low - first thing to do is to clean all the ground points on the car. A search on this list for ground points should bring up a diagram showing them all.
Replace the fuel filter for good measure, and check the in-tank screen, and while you're at it clean and dry the tank.
Then while the fuel pump is off the car (while you dropped the tank to check the screen), try reversing the polarity to the fuel pump alternately a few times to un-jam/block the pump. Don't let it run more than a moment though, as its used to having fuel to lube/cool it.
The fact that it tried buzzing says to me its blocked, not dead.
06-22-2009, 10:54 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
I've had some luck reversing it on the car, best using remote wire leads and a separate battery for safety.
Somebody makes the connection, and I flush the inlet (now the outlet) using a jet of WD 40 through a straw. Then flip connections forward, then back again. Has worked twice now, including once along the highway on the Perl white car.
And no fireball. So far.
Somebody makes the connection, and I flush the inlet (now the outlet) using a jet of WD 40 through a straw. Then flip connections forward, then back again. Has worked twice now, including once along the highway on the Perl white car.
And no fireball. So far.
06-23-2009, 11:14 AM
#36
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The gutter strip fits over a bead on the roof seam, but on a repainted car chances are good it is now glued in with old paint. Thats going to be annoyingly true for many otherwise easy to remove clips etc.
Harbor Freight sells three different sets of nylon trim removers, getting all three sets isn't a bad idea. At the rear where the screw is your trim strip may already be a little lifted up, so I would start there. The trick is not bending the trim, as it will be very hard to unbend. Slip a narrow nylon wedge between the roof and trim forcing it away from the body (not up or down, just to the side), then just keep slowly plowing forward.
Here is a pict of the bead with the trim removed.
Harbor Freight sells three different sets of nylon trim removers, getting all three sets isn't a bad idea. At the rear where the screw is your trim strip may already be a little lifted up, so I would start there. The trick is not bending the trim, as it will be very hard to unbend. Slip a narrow nylon wedge between the roof and trim forcing it away from the body (not up or down, just to the side), then just keep slowly plowing forward.
Here is a pict of the bead with the trim removed.
Regarding criticism, regardless of what you choose to do, you will get all the support in doing it that I can provide, even including never saying I told you so if it doesn't work out as expected. The flip side is that up front I will probably tell you what I think, perhaps disagree with you, and attempt to make a few points to clarify what I am saying, but I won't argue about it unless you want to. I'll say my piece, then shut up and help however you end up doing it.
For perspective I'm past $12k on my $3k 83 that was running and being driven with a very nice original interior and paint, and I am not done, maybe 80%.
For perspective I'm past $12k on my $3k 83 that was running and being driven with a very nice original interior and paint, and I am not done, maybe 80%.
06-23-2009, 11:46 AM
#37
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As for the fuel pump... I cranked the car over last night and it attempted to fire... started then died all in the same moment!
So what I did... put the battery back on the charger!!
I pulled the fuel pump checked my connections, b4 I pulled the pump I removed the relay and made sure zero electricity was getting by and I discovered that the 4th or 5th fuse starting from left hand side on the top of the fuse panel had blown... 25 amp fuse...???
I then pulled the feed line out of the back of the pump... plenty of fuel gushing out, plugged it, filter wasn't clogged I could as well see it from the inside of the tank and it's clean.
Pump off the car, back in the garage with a battery and some aligator clips, hooked up the pump and it clicked then some smoke rolled out of the output side... then it was done. I unclipped it and repeated process same problem same results.
So I reversed polarities same results, click and smoke...
So I ohmed it and it reads .03 ohms... Usually the ohms would be higher on a non working pump? Am I correct?
My guesstimate would be that the pump is clogged but if I am unable to spin the motor inside in either direction than I am sol, because I cannot disassemble the fp body. I attempted to clear it as well by tapping gently on the fp body but that did not help...
So what I did... put the battery back on the charger!!
I pulled the fuel pump checked my connections, b4 I pulled the pump I removed the relay and made sure zero electricity was getting by and I discovered that the 4th or 5th fuse starting from left hand side on the top of the fuse panel had blown... 25 amp fuse...???
I then pulled the feed line out of the back of the pump... plenty of fuel gushing out, plugged it, filter wasn't clogged I could as well see it from the inside of the tank and it's clean.
Pump off the car, back in the garage with a battery and some aligator clips, hooked up the pump and it clicked then some smoke rolled out of the output side... then it was done. I unclipped it and repeated process same problem same results.
So I reversed polarities same results, click and smoke...
So I ohmed it and it reads .03 ohms... Usually the ohms would be higher on a non working pump? Am I correct?
My guesstimate would be that the pump is clogged but if I am unable to spin the motor inside in either direction than I am sol, because I cannot disassemble the fp body. I attempted to clear it as well by tapping gently on the fp body but that did not help...
06-23-2009, 12:02 PM
#38
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New Pics...
Out in the driveway... recieving some simple green treatment and an under body bath!
Are these horns stock?? They look like stock wiring... just curious.
Little dirty but nothing is bent other than the blinker mount??
Are these horns stock?? They look like stock wiring... just curious.
Little dirty but nothing is bent other than the blinker mount??
06-28-2009, 09:35 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
Did you beat/dolly that rear fender? Looks good.
I'd buy (and have more than once) a new bosch fuel pump, plus inlet line and strainer fitting. Check with Rog100 for prices.
I'd buy (and have more than once) a new bosch fuel pump, plus inlet line and strainer fitting. Check with Rog100 for prices.
06-28-2009, 03:37 PM
#44
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Yes, hammer and dolly... boy that dent was in a tough spot... Couldn't get to the nuts that hold the bumper on without straightening the dent...
I've never done body work before so this is my first dent...
I'm working on the bondo now... that's fun... It's fun to make a round panel round again! Not really!
Last night... Slathered up with some bondo. With of course the intentions of removing almost all of it, except where it's filling the low spots.
I learned the hard way not to put too much hardener.... makes it really chunky really fast... Some rework needed around the middle of the fenderwell it's a bit chunky! OOOOPS!
I've never done body work before so this is my first dent...
I'm working on the bondo now... that's fun... It's fun to make a round panel round again! Not really!
Last night... Slathered up with some bondo. With of course the intentions of removing almost all of it, except where it's filling the low spots.
I learned the hard way not to put too much hardener.... makes it really chunky really fast... Some rework needed around the middle of the fenderwell it's a bit chunky! OOOOPS!
