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Changing radiator end tanks without breaking tabs

 
Old 10-13-2011, 05:19 PM
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Randy V
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I used this write-up to do the side tank changeout.

It was a bit of a bitch and I would not have attempted it were it not for this write-up.

I got the replacement side tank and seal from 928 International.

Good luck finding a 36 mm socket - I had to borrow one from my mechanic buddy after looking all over to buy one. Nothing but a large socket will work. Trust me on that.

Then, good luck finding replacement o-rings for the cooler connections. I ended up buying a whole o-ring kit from Harbor Freight to get the 2 big o-rings I needed.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:04 PM
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I bought the parts from Roger, including gasket & O-Ring for about $75, then took it to my local radiator shop where they did the replacement for $90, including a pressure test. Picked it up today and will install it this weekend.

I was going to do it myself, but realized the only way for me to test it myself was to reinstall it completely, and I did not want to do all that twice. The $90 bought me peace of mind.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by KenRudd View Post
I bought the parts from Roger, including gasket & O-Ring for about $75, then took it to my local radiator shop where they did the replacement for $90, including a pressure test. Picked it up today and will install it this weekend.

I was going to do it myself, but realized the only way for me to test it myself was to reinstall it completely, and I did not want to do all that twice. The $90 bought me peace of mind.
That's actually not true. I tested mine with a bicycle inner tube.


Take one from a mountain bike and cut it. Clamp one end on the 'in' and one on the 'out' and plug the overflow line. Then just pump up the tire with a compressor an submerge it in water or spray with soapy water. If it holds air with no bubbles it will hold water.
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:29 PM
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Okay, true, there are alternate ways to test it without the complete reinstall...
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Old 10-13-2011, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Frye View Post
That's actually not true. I tested mine with a bicycle inner tube.


Take one from a mountain bike and cut it. Clamp one end on the 'in' and one on the 'out' and plug the overflow line. Then just pump up the tire with a compressor an submerge it in water or spray with soapy water. If it holds air with no bubbles it will hold water.
Good tip Mike
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:34 PM
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So I go to move the brass sleeve from the old, cracked tank to the new tank and notice that the new tank does not have the "tab" that would keep the sleeve oriented. Suggestions?
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Old 10-14-2011, 02:39 AM
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Ken,
I replaced my whole rad a few years ago and met this same problem with the 'guide tube' as Porsche calls it. I have small screws used in my modelling work (r/c planes), so I got a 2-56 cheese head screw(or anything with a small low profile head,anything similar size would do, like M2); fitted the tube where it should be, and drilled a hole just smaller than the screw through the inlet part of the tank, about 10mm from the end, and through the metal tube. I then fitted the screw , so that it went through the guide tube, and pegs it in place, so it cant turn. From memory I drilled about opposie from the original locating ridge, no particular reason, except maybe its accessible on top with hose off. With the screw close to the end of the inlet, when the top hose is fitted, it will go a bit past the screw head, and will stop it from coming undone...Couple of years now, no problems so far.
jp 83 Euro S AT 54k
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by KenRudd View Post
So I go to move the brass sleeve from the old, cracked tank to the new tank and notice that the new tank does not have the "tab" that would keep the sleeve oriented. Suggestions?
It friction fits into the new one.

Not really a need to duplicate the tab.
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Old 10-14-2011, 01:44 PM
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I thought about the friction fit, but my concern was eventual sleeve rotation. I would think that this is an area that undergoes a lot of turbulence, plus heat cycling. Coolant getting forced between the sleeve and the pipe would be a pretty effective lubricant. If the sleeve rotates, the coolant flow maybe dramatically altered.

Or am I seeing potential problems where there are none?
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:33 PM
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I was also concerned about the tube rotating and negating, or even making the flow worse than it not being there. For the sake of the few minutes it takes to fit a locating screw, with no down side(for me anyway so far), whats the issue. I cant see a 1/16" hole doing any harm, its close to the end of the inlet, so cant weaken it in an area of stress, the hose & clip stops it unscrewing, so ?
jp 83 Euro S AT 53k
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:49 AM
  #26  
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The socket is not difficult to find. It's called an axle nut socket. They're readily available at most auto parts stores. For some reason, they don't keep them with the other sockets and ratchets.
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Old 04-23-2012, 10:12 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mike Frye View Post
... I tested mine with a bicycle inner tube.

Take one from a mountain bike and cut it. Clamp one end on the 'in' and one on the 'out' and plug the overflow line. Then just pump up the tire with a compressor an submerge it in water or spray with soapy water. If it holds air with no bubbles it will hold water.

Excellent idea, but you don't need a submersion tank or even soapy water, just an air pressure gauge. If the pressure doesn't change over an hour or two, it's not leaking.

Great thread to resurrect. Thanks again to JHowell.
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Old 09-30-2012, 07:03 AM
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What an excellent write-up. Just to make it from good->perfect, can we get the seal numbers in the thread (I assume they are proper Porsche OEM stuf?)
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:55 PM
  #29  
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The end tank comes with a new seal. For the seals that go on the coolers, I used some thick o-rings from a generic o-ring set. I'm at 3 years with no leaks.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:27 AM
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The pictures are no longer in this thread, but are in the original here
http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...8/MyTip862.htm

Great write-up that deserves a bump.
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