Oil filler neck leak
05-19-2009, 03:01 PM
#1
Oil filler neck leak
After redoing my intake,i left the old oil filler neck but i replaced the gasket,it looks like its leaking again into the crevaces filling them with oil,can i leave this alone without any issues,i just dont want to take that intake off again.If i do have to fix what is an alternative to that cheap plastic neck? how can they put that on this engine?
05-19-2009, 03:54 PM
#2
Fleet of Foot
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Intake has to be removed to fix it again. The earlier 32V engines has a metal oil filler neck but my experience is that they leak as well.
05-19-2009, 04:01 PM
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,580
Received 1,692 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
By about 120k-miles or so, the plastic filler necks will have warped to the point that they will not seal. You have to buy a new one (~$75).
05-19-2009, 04:06 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
You can replace the oil filler neck without removing the intake.
The plastic piece is sold with a new gasket and should be included as one of the intake project pieces to replace IMHO.
The plastic piece is sold with a new gasket and should be included as one of the intake project pieces to replace IMHO.
.
Trending Topics
05-19-2009, 04:36 PM
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,580
Received 1,692 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
Maybe.
Technically it is often possible to replace the filler neck without removing the intake. One way is to loosen the intake, lift it up onto the studs and back just enough to get to the filler neck bolts. The other is to remove (and then reseal with new gaskets) the coolant bridge to get access to the filler neck. The problem with the second method is that it sometimes cannot work due to casting variations in the intake and coolant bridge. Also, I do not like doing it that way as you have to use a long ball-ended Allen bit on the torque wrench for the rear bridge bolts and thus I don't think it ends up correctly torqued.
Leaving the filler neck badly leaking is a great way to destroy new knock sensors.
Technically it is often possible to replace the filler neck without removing the intake. One way is to loosen the intake, lift it up onto the studs and back just enough to get to the filler neck bolts. The other is to remove (and then reseal with new gaskets) the coolant bridge to get access to the filler neck. The problem with the second method is that it sometimes cannot work due to casting variations in the intake and coolant bridge. Also, I do not like doing it that way as you have to use a long ball-ended Allen bit on the torque wrench for the rear bridge bolts and thus I don't think it ends up correctly torqued.
Leaving the filler neck badly leaking is a great way to destroy new knock sensors.
05-19-2009, 04:47 PM
#11
Fleet of Foot
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Maybe.
Technically it is often possible to replace the filler neck without removing the intake. One way is to loosen the intake, lift it up onto the studs and back just enough to get to the filler neck bolts. The other is to remove (and then reseal with new gaskets) the coolant bridge to get access to the filler neck. The problem with the second method is that it sometimes cannot work due to casting variations in the intake and coolant bridge. Also, I do not like doing it that way as you have to use a long ball-ended Allen bit on the torque wrench for the rear bridge bolts and thus I don't think it ends up correctly torqued.
Leaving the filler neck badly leaking is a great way to destroy new knock sensors.
Technically it is often possible to replace the filler neck without removing the intake. One way is to loosen the intake, lift it up onto the studs and back just enough to get to the filler neck bolts. The other is to remove (and then reseal with new gaskets) the coolant bridge to get access to the filler neck. The problem with the second method is that it sometimes cannot work due to casting variations in the intake and coolant bridge. Also, I do not like doing it that way as you have to use a long ball-ended Allen bit on the torque wrench for the rear bridge bolts and thus I don't think it ends up correctly torqued.
Leaving the filler neck badly leaking is a great way to destroy new knock sensors.
.. no worries...
05-19-2009, 05:04 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
The problem with the second method is that it sometimes cannot work due to casting variations in the intake and coolant bridge. Also, I do not like doing it that way as you have to use a long ball-ended Allen bit on the torque wrench for the rear bridge bolts and thus I don't think it ends up correctly torqued.
If you haven't had the waterbridge off its worth a try. If you cant get it off without disturbing the intake at least there's another project done; 4 gaskets, a seal and a new t.stat.
05-19-2009, 07:12 PM
#15
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,580
Received 1,692 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
The dubious torque issue has to do with the alternate coolant bridge removal method.