New Clutch - Not entirely happy
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
New Clutch - Not entirely happy
Parts fitted today:
Flywheel - 20,000 miles only, looks like new
Pressure plate from GTS - very low mileage, also looks like new
Friction plate - relined
Release bearing - new
Pilot bearing - new
Slave - new when fitted 12 months ago
Good point - Total cost of parts under $550
Bad points - The new clutch smells, it's very sharp, and the bite point is much higher.
The 'new' pressure plate is obviously much stronger than the original, and the relined friction plate isn't springy like the original. I'm not sure which is responsible for the sharper bite, or perhaps both are.
Is there anyway to adjust the bite point? I've always assumed it's not adjustable.
Thanks
Flywheel - 20,000 miles only, looks like new
Pressure plate from GTS - very low mileage, also looks like new
Friction plate - relined
Release bearing - new
Pilot bearing - new
Slave - new when fitted 12 months ago
Good point - Total cost of parts under $550
Bad points - The new clutch smells, it's very sharp, and the bite point is much higher.
The 'new' pressure plate is obviously much stronger than the original, and the relined friction plate isn't springy like the original. I'm not sure which is responsible for the sharper bite, or perhaps both are.
Is there anyway to adjust the bite point? I've always assumed it's not adjustable.
Thanks
#2
Rennlist Member
Parts fitted today:
Flywheel - 20,000 miles only, looks like new
Pressure plate from GTS - very low mileage, also looks like new
Friction plate - relined
Release bearing - new
Pilot bearing - new
Slave - new when fitted 12 months ago
Good point - Total cost of parts under $550
Bad points - The new clutch smells, it's very sharp, and the bite point is much higher.
The 'new' pressure plate is obviously much stronger than the original, and the relined friction plate isn't springy like the original. I'm not sure which is responsible for the sharper bite, or perhaps both are.
Is there anyway to adjust the bite point? I've always assumed it's not adjustable.
Thanks
Flywheel - 20,000 miles only, looks like new
Pressure plate from GTS - very low mileage, also looks like new
Friction plate - relined
Release bearing - new
Pilot bearing - new
Slave - new when fitted 12 months ago
Good point - Total cost of parts under $550
Bad points - The new clutch smells, it's very sharp, and the bite point is much higher.
The 'new' pressure plate is obviously much stronger than the original, and the relined friction plate isn't springy like the original. I'm not sure which is responsible for the sharper bite, or perhaps both are.
Is there anyway to adjust the bite point? I've always assumed it's not adjustable.
Thanks
It sounds like they left out the springs when they relined the plate-- there are supposed to be flat "wave" springs between the two faces to provide some "give". Omitting them would mean the clutch doesn't start engaging until the pedal is near the top of its travel, and then it would be fully engaged with very little pedal travel.
Maybe you got the "race" disc?
#3
Supercharged
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How many miles on the new clutch? Depending on the lining material, it may take many many miles for you to properly bed in the clutch. On my SPec Stage 3+, I think they said it would take 450 miles (of city traffic). I think it took me closer to 600. Get yourself stuck in some rush-hour traffic and that should solve some of the sharper bite.
As for the engagement point, I thought I had engagement point issues with my clutch, but it ended up being air in the line. I bled the clutch and all was well. When you bleed the clutch, make sure you pump the clutch pedal several times to get all the air out.
Hope this helps.
As for the engagement point, I thought I had engagement point issues with my clutch, but it ended up being air in the line. I bled the clutch and all was well. When you bleed the clutch, make sure you pump the clutch pedal several times to get all the air out.
Hope this helps.
#4
Rennlist Member
I went from a (slipping when trying any quick starts) GT clutch to GTS and installed a used GTS pressure plate a couple of years ago. I don't think it bit higher at all but rather, simply, bit harder, felt for every start or shift. I used new parts otherwise, though.
Parts fitted today:
Flywheel - 20,000 miles only, looks like new
Pressure plate from GTS - very low mileage, also looks like new
Friction plate - relined
Release bearing - new
Pilot bearing - new
Slave - new when fitted 12 months ago
Good point - Total cost of parts under $550
Bad points - The new clutch smells, it's very sharp, and the bite point is much higher.
The 'new' pressure plate is obviously much stronger than the original, and the relined friction plate isn't springy like the original. I'm not sure which is responsible for the sharper bite, or perhaps both are.
Is there anyway to adjust the bite point? I've always assumed it's not adjustable.
Thanks
Flywheel - 20,000 miles only, looks like new
Pressure plate from GTS - very low mileage, also looks like new
Friction plate - relined
Release bearing - new
Pilot bearing - new
Slave - new when fitted 12 months ago
Good point - Total cost of parts under $550
Bad points - The new clutch smells, it's very sharp, and the bite point is much higher.
The 'new' pressure plate is obviously much stronger than the original, and the relined friction plate isn't springy like the original. I'm not sure which is responsible for the sharper bite, or perhaps both are.
Is there anyway to adjust the bite point? I've always assumed it's not adjustable.
Thanks
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
OK, so that is confusing. I could replace the relined disc for a new one, and still have too sharp a bite for my relaxed driving style.
#6
Addict
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Paul
The sharp bite could well be due to the fact that you have very few miles on the clutch friction material combined with the possible lack of wave springs between the friction material and the "friction" disc.
You can't do anything about the engagement point - I think it goes lower as the clutch (friction disc, pressure plate and flywheel) gets worn. Judging by the 88SE - high engagement point (40k miles old flywheel, pp, and friction disc) vs 90GT - low engagement point (109k miles old everything afaik)
You could bleed it really badly that would move the engagement point down a bit LOL
The sharp bite could well be due to the fact that you have very few miles on the clutch friction material combined with the possible lack of wave springs between the friction material and the "friction" disc.
You can't do anything about the engagement point - I think it goes lower as the clutch (friction disc, pressure plate and flywheel) gets worn. Judging by the 88SE - high engagement point (40k miles old flywheel, pp, and friction disc) vs 90GT - low engagement point (109k miles old everything afaik)
You could bleed it really badly that would move the engagement point down a bit LOL
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Paul
The sharp bite could well be due to the fact that you have very few miles on the clutch friction material combined with the possible lack of wave springs between the friction material and the "friction" disc.
You can't do anything about the engagement point - I think it goes lower as the clutch (friction disc, pressure plate and flywheel) gets worn. Judging by the 88SE - high engagement point (40k miles old flywheel, pp, and friction disc) vs 90GT - low engagement point (109k miles old everything afaik)
You could bleed it really badly that would move the engagement point down a bit LOL
The sharp bite could well be due to the fact that you have very few miles on the clutch friction material combined with the possible lack of wave springs between the friction material and the "friction" disc.
You can't do anything about the engagement point - I think it goes lower as the clutch (friction disc, pressure plate and flywheel) gets worn. Judging by the 88SE - high engagement point (40k miles old flywheel, pp, and friction disc) vs 90GT - low engagement point (109k miles old everything afaik)
You could bleed it really badly that would move the engagement point down a bit LOL
I am inclined to think that the disk is the problem. The reline may have saved me £140, but I'm probably going to swap it out if it doesn't improve. No time to do that before the Ring trip this Friday.
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#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Paul,
It sounds like they left out the springs when they relined the plate-- there are supposed to be flat "wave" springs between the two faces to provide some "give". Omitting them would mean the clutch doesn't start engaging until the pedal is near the top of its travel, and then it would be fully engaged with very little pedal travel.
Maybe you got the "race" disc?
It sounds like they left out the springs when they relined the plate-- there are supposed to be flat "wave" springs between the two faces to provide some "give". Omitting them would mean the clutch doesn't start engaging until the pedal is near the top of its travel, and then it would be fully engaged with very little pedal travel.
Maybe you got the "race" disc?
#10
Addict
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The bite could also be in part due to my laziness in not removing all the surface rust from the flywheel and pressure plate (only from the flywheel/pressure plate mating surfaces). Both had been sitting around for a couple of years or more.
I am inclined to think that the disk is the problem. The reline may have saved me £140, but I'm probably going to swap it out if it doesn't improve. No time to do that before the Ring trip this Friday.
I am inclined to think that the disk is the problem. The reline may have saved me £140, but I'm probably going to swap it out if it doesn't improve. No time to do that before the Ring trip this Friday.
Coating the clutch in oil (aka not changing the RMS or oil pan gasket) makes the bite much smoother!
Could well take a 1000 miles or so to get rid of the rust dust from the surface of the friction discs even after the flywheel and pp are back to bright steel. And rust dust would be very grabby.
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
The minor oil leaks at the front of the car are the only thing protecting my fuel lines. Towards the rear where the oil can't reach the fuel lines are looking grim.
#13
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The bite could also be in part due to my laziness in not removing all the surface rust from the flywheel and pressure plate (only from the flywheel/pressure plate mating surfaces). Both had been sitting around for a couple of years or more.
I am inclined to think that the disk is the problem. The reline may have saved me £140, but I'm probably going to swap it out if it doesn't improve. No time to do that before the Ring trip this Friday.
I am inclined to think that the disk is the problem. The reline may have saved me £140, but I'm probably going to swap it out if it doesn't improve. No time to do that before the Ring trip this Friday.
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes it's the one you gave me! Looked like much less than 65k, there's no lip on it, and very few heat marks. Compared with mine with 211k it looks almost brand new.
I think I've had enough of the clutch for the moment, I'm going to let the relined disk bed in, and then make a decision about whether to leave it in or not. Thanks for the offer though, much appreciated!
I think I've had enough of the clutch for the moment, I'm going to let the relined disk bed in, and then make a decision about whether to leave it in or not. Thanks for the offer though, much appreciated!