88 s4 supercharged dynoed and running lean
05-06-2009, 10:16 PM
#16
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BTW, no offense to Ken, do not run the Corky Bell FMU, use the one sent with the kit because it is specifically setup and tested for this application and is a superior unit to the Bell FMU. The Bell unit does has its place but in this case it does not belong. Today 07:10 PM
No offense taken, from the initial post I didn't think that this was a sorted kit.
And ....someone else just jumped on the BEGI unit, so it's sold.
Best regards,
Ken
05-06-2009, 10:26 PM
#17
Nordschleife Master
Ok, as an '88 euro, it probably doesn't have cats or an O2 sensor from factory. This changes a few things as noted by Tim above.
After following Bill Ball's helpful post above to check the throttle switch:, and if the switch is fine (or once the switch has been fixed):
As its a factory non-cat car, you can adjust the potentiometer in the cabin (above the electric panel, on a bracket on the side of the LH) to enrichen the mixture.
I'd do that immediately, turning it clockwise (richer) at least 3 turns (its about 20 turns from end to end). That's just to provide slightly more safety than you have now if you need to drive the car (gently) anywhere to gt it worked on.
Next trick is to get the MAF tested - sending to JDS directly is probably fastest and easiest. John can test, and if found to be out of range, can provide a rebuilt one with a warranty. You can borrow a known-good one, however you'll end up calibrating the mixture which is MAF-specific (there's a slight variation in MAF output signal between units), so making sure your own MAF is good is more effective.
Once you have a verified-good MAF in your car, and a working throttle switch, you need to get to a garage with a recently-calibrated (<2 years) exhaust gas analyser.
Then using the analyser, adjust the potentiometer until the exhaust shows 1% CO (Porsche spec is 1% +/- 0.5%). If your air-pump is still connected you need to either remove its belt, or use the exhaust test port at the end of the airbox with a small grey cap, otherwise stick the lambda probe straight into the exhaust (the joy of having no cat
)
Oh - I'd also remove the after market chips, in case they've fiddled with the timing at all, and go back to stock for the LH and Tim's for the EZ-K.
After following Bill Ball's helpful post above to check the throttle switch:, and if the switch is fine (or once the switch has been fixed):
As its a factory non-cat car, you can adjust the potentiometer in the cabin (above the electric panel, on a bracket on the side of the LH) to enrichen the mixture.
I'd do that immediately, turning it clockwise (richer) at least 3 turns (its about 20 turns from end to end). That's just to provide slightly more safety than you have now if you need to drive the car (gently) anywhere to gt it worked on.
Next trick is to get the MAF tested - sending to JDS directly is probably fastest and easiest. John can test, and if found to be out of range, can provide a rebuilt one with a warranty. You can borrow a known-good one, however you'll end up calibrating the mixture which is MAF-specific (there's a slight variation in MAF output signal between units), so making sure your own MAF is good is more effective.
Once you have a verified-good MAF in your car, and a working throttle switch, you need to get to a garage with a recently-calibrated (<2 years) exhaust gas analyser.
Then using the analyser, adjust the potentiometer until the exhaust shows 1% CO (Porsche spec is 1% +/- 0.5%). If your air-pump is still connected you need to either remove its belt, or use the exhaust test port at the end of the airbox with a small grey cap, otherwise stick the lambda probe straight into the exhaust (the joy of having no cat
)Oh - I'd also remove the after market chips, in case they've fiddled with the timing at all, and go back to stock for the LH and Tim's for the EZ-K.
05-07-2009, 02:25 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
You can check for the signal at the LH plug. Temporarily disconnect both the LH and EZK plugs from the brains. These are in the passenger footwell against the outside wall. The LH is the one closest to the outside wall. When you press the throttle, before you get to the floor, you should see continuity appearing across pins 3 and 17 on the LH plug. The image below shows the test procedure. If you do not see this result, try snugging up the throttle cable adjusters if you find slack. One adjuster is where the throttle cable passes through the firewall, while the other is on the throttle quadrant bolted on the side of the intake manifold. Just make sure not to overtighten them and lift the throttle plate off the stop.
08-13-2009, 05:22 PM
#19
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Calling Tim Murphy
Tim Murphy - if you see this, please call Doug's shop at the Auto Stop in Bozeman, at 406-586-5451. (Doug's indisposed right now, so I'm posting this for him). They are working on his car, getting the heat issues sorted, and they need to talk with you. Thank you
08-13-2009, 05:50 PM
#21
Doug,
I also have a Begi. I used it for about 3-4 months and then I got my car sharktuned. I left the begi connected but removed the vacuum to bypass it. If you want it, $100 plus shipping.
Do you have any gauges in the car? E.g. boost pressure, vacuum, AFR?
I also have a Begi. I used it for about 3-4 months and then I got my car sharktuned. I left the begi connected but removed the vacuum to bypass it. If you want it, $100 plus shipping.
Do you have any gauges in the car? E.g. boost pressure, vacuum, AFR?
08-13-2009, 05:54 PM
#22
You can check for the signal at the LH plug. Temporarily disconnect both the LH and EZK plugs from the brains. These are in the passenger footwell against the outside wall. The LH is the one closest to the outside wall. When you press the throttle, before you get to the floor, you should see continuity appearing across pins 3 and 17 on the LH plug. The image below shows the test procedure. If you do not see this result, try snugging up the throttle cable adjusters if you find slack. One adjuster is where the throttle cable passes through the firewall, while the other is on the throttle quadrant bolted on the side of the intake manifold. Just make sure not to overtighten them and lift the throttle plate off the stop.
08-13-2009, 06:13 PM
#23
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They are installing a new TPS (and other things) and wanted to make sure they have it adjusted properly.
In reply to the comment on the Begi FMU: The car has a Vortech FMU which is specific to this application. The Begi unit is not right for this setup.
Sounds like they have a good handle on things.
In reply to the comment on the Begi FMU: The car has a Vortech FMU which is specific to this application. The Begi unit is not right for this setup.
Sounds like they have a good handle on things.
Last edited by Tim Murphy; 08-17-2009 at 10:56 AM. Reason: clarification, spelling
08-13-2009, 10:38 PM
#24
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The power of Rennlist never ceases to amaze me - thanks Z and Tim!
08-13-2009, 11:32 PM
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08-13-2009, 11:46 PM
#26
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They are installing a new TPS (and other things) and wanted to make sure they have it adjusted properly.
In reply to the comment on the Begi FFU: The car has a Vortech FMU which is specific to this application. The Begi unit is not right for this setup.
Sounds like they have a good handle on things.
In reply to the comment on the Begi FFU: The car has a Vortech FMU which is specific to this application. The Begi unit is not right for this setup.
Sounds like they have a good handle on things.
08-17-2009, 10:32 AM
#29
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FAIL!!!
Do not listen to this man. He has no clue what he is talking about with respect to how a MURF928 Stage 1 should be setup. Stick to painting Mark.
Do not listen to this man. He has no clue what he is talking about with respect to how a MURF928 Stage 1 should be setup. Stick to painting Mark.
Last edited by Tim Murphy; 08-17-2009 at 01:07 PM. Reason: Dyslexic
08-17-2009, 11:43 AM
#30
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The Bell fmu was the first available and many say its the best available. They both do the same thing , but The 2025 is much more tunable and accurate. Carl at Motorsports highly recommends the Begi on the kits he sells. Explain why you say this Tim. Not being a smart-***, just curious.
The BEGI unit and Vortech unit are two different animals.
Most people do not know how to setup the BEGI unit. Carl is the designer of his kits and if he says to use the BEGI units with his stuff then you should follow his direction.