Radiator woes
#16
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928 Barrister
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
Mike, you've given me faith to try it myself. I was driving back from the gym tonight thinking I should contact Heinrich and buy his radiator. Then I could install it and have San Carlos Radiator down the road from me fix my old one. But your success sounds better since I don't have to immobilize my wheels for very long. Thanks for posting your experience.
Heinrich, if you have a spare and I destroy mine, I'll be in touch.
Nothing left to do buy dive in. Thanks to all.
Heinrich, if you have a spare and I destroy mine, I'll be in touch.
Nothing left to do buy dive in. Thanks to all.
#17
Well, this is Ron's thread, but if he passes, I might take you up on that Heinrich. I've got mine and one used one that Adam hooked me up with as well as a new side tank and 1 gasket. If I can't make one good rad out of these parts by the end of the weekend I'll drop you a line.
Did you get a chance to check out those fog housings? Were they even the right part?
Did you get a chance to check out those fog housings? Were they even the right part?
#18
I had the same leak on the same side - its a common problem for the end tank to crack at the edge of the lip near where the hot line flows in.
I've taken the tank off twice - first time to replace the gasket (broke 2 tabs), only to discover that the issue was a cracked plastic tank, not the gasket after I had it togethre.
Second time I replaced the whole end tank, a few weeks ago - broke one more tab, not near either of the other two.
I used a pair of ratcheting tie-down straps looped around the whole radiator to compress the new tank onto the radiator, and then channel lock pliers to push the tabs back down.
I also used a blowtorch to heat the tabs up before bending them back into place (while there was no plastic tank fitted).
Happy to report that since replacing the tank, it holds pressure and I haven't had to top up my coolant in about 500 miles - previously it had got so bad I was topping it up before driving to work each morning.
I've taken the tank off twice - first time to replace the gasket (broke 2 tabs), only to discover that the issue was a cracked plastic tank, not the gasket after I had it togethre.
Second time I replaced the whole end tank, a few weeks ago - broke one more tab, not near either of the other two.
I used a pair of ratcheting tie-down straps looped around the whole radiator to compress the new tank onto the radiator, and then channel lock pliers to push the tabs back down.
I also used a blowtorch to heat the tabs up before bending them back into place (while there was no plastic tank fitted).
Happy to report that since replacing the tank, it holds pressure and I haven't had to top up my coolant in about 500 miles - previously it had got so bad I was topping it up before driving to work each morning.
#19
No, it kind of 'snapped' into place when I got it on there and the tabs definitely moved it back to where it was previously. The same amount of tab is holding it in each place (as nearly as I can tell). I actually alternated sides for the first few to get it centered, then I worked my way around. Maybe the Hondabond is helping me there, I don't know. I also only got it up to regular temp twice so far, so we'll see if I screwed it up.
At the same time I removed the air pump and went with the short "Lawnmower" belt for the fan, so I'll be watching my temp VERY closely for a while.
Will post if I spring a leak...
#20
Well that didn't work. Apparently 15psi of air pressure at room temp <> several heat cycles and the engine pressure.
I'm leaking from the same place at the gasket where the passenger side tank and the core meet.
Maybe the clamp to hold it in place or a ratchet strap to compress the gasket first would work. I didn't do that and although it held air pressure with my test jig, it's started leaking after only a week of driving and only two trips to red line. (maybe three ).
Good luck Ron, I hope you have better luck.
I'm leaking from the same place at the gasket where the passenger side tank and the core meet.
Maybe the clamp to hold it in place or a ratchet strap to compress the gasket first would work. I didn't do that and although it held air pressure with my test jig, it's started leaking after only a week of driving and only two trips to red line. (maybe three ).
Good luck Ron, I hope you have better luck.
#21
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928 Barrister
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
I called San Carlos Radiator, a shop that I trust and know they're honest, and they said there was no guarantee that it would work with new side tanks. They quoted me $125 to put the end tanks on and test the whole assembly but cautioned that it might not work. I have concluded that either a new or used radiator is the best solution, but don't want to use a wider new one, so I guess I'll go with a used one ......and pray it lasts for a reasonable time. At present, I make it about one week between topping up the fill tank. A year ago it was about once a month.
#22
Multiple 928's are producing double or more than stock power with the stock radiator and no over heating issues.
Todd's 928 never goes above the first white line, even with a massive air / air intercooler covering the front of his stock radiator (he does have to huge fans behind it).
I do understand for most people buying a new radiator is an easier solution.
#23
Fleet of Foot
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From: We are there!(San Diego)
I called San Carlos Radiator, a shop that I trust and know they're honest, and they said there was no guarantee that it would work with new side tanks. They quoted me $125 to put the end tanks on and test the whole assembly but cautioned that it might not work. I have concluded that either a new or used radiator is the best solution, but don't want to use a wider new one, so I guess I'll go with a used one ......and pray it lasts for a reasonable time. At present, I make it about one week between topping up the fill tank. A year ago it was about once a month.
#24
Sorry if I'm hijacking this thread, but I wanted to update on progress. Pulled the radiator again and tried to crank the new side tank down a bit with a ratchet strap and a couple of 2x4s.
I noticed that the lip of the new side tank was protruding a bit more than on the other end, so I tried to match that amount of lip showing. Also, this time I used the existing (DS) side tank to set my vice grips to the right depth (Wish I'd have thought of that the first time too). I was able to bend the tabs another 1/16th or so.
Will post in a few days whether it worked or not.
I noticed that the lip of the new side tank was protruding a bit more than on the other end, so I tried to match that amount of lip showing. Also, this time I used the existing (DS) side tank to set my vice grips to the right depth (Wish I'd have thought of that the first time too). I was able to bend the tabs another 1/16th or so.
Will post in a few days whether it worked or not.
#25
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928 Barrister
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From: Sunnyvale, CA
Mike, don't worry. I am learning through your posts and experience. Keep us all posted. I hope you are successful because I can decide what to do with my own radiator.
#26
Here's the update: I think I've got it!
I've had it out a few times since then for complete heat cycles and I've got no moisture anywhere around the side tanks.
So the keys for me were:
>>Take a couple of 2x4s the length of the side tanks (18" or so) put them on the ends and use a ratchet strap to pull the new tank in nice and tight. Check the amount of plastic lip you can see at the corners and make sure it matches the existing tank. Turns out mine was noticeably farther out after the first attempt (maybe 1/16" or so).
>>Next get your vice grips and set up the distance on the jaws with the existing tank (close and then turn the handle until it's snug.) Then you can use this setting to tighten the tabs on the new tank to match.
If it starts leaking again I'll let you know, but I think this time I've got it.
"...the things I didn't know at first, I learned by doing twice."- Billy Joel