getting more air into CIS?
04-14-2009, 11:30 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
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If you look at the Euro rotor there should be a brass section in the center and a brass tip. In between, under insulating rosin, is a resister. You solder a bridge over top form the center to the tip. Pretty simple.
04-14-2009, 11:52 PM
#33
Three Wheelin'
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Here's the first one I did. Got the solder looking better on the next one. On the second one I used liquid electrical tape to cover the brass strip. Maybe why I have no arcing issues. BTW, I dropped the Euro rotor since it had the rev limiter built in. This is a US version.
Just used a flat thin piece of brass cut to fit. Then drop some solder on each end. No arc, no loss of spark. Not pretty but functional. With the stock set up the resister can reduce current flow or even burn out using the MSD.
Just used a flat thin piece of brass cut to fit. Then drop some solder on each end. No arc, no loss of spark. Not pretty but functional. With the stock set up the resister can reduce current flow or even burn out using the MSD.
05-04-2009, 02:45 AM
#34
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Well, I changed the coil to the later mercedes coil and that does seem to have pepped things up. Not day and night but I think there is a little more power there.
I have also found a bad injector (that wasn't on the side that was being used to monitor A/F) so I'm guessing there's some power there too.
I have also found a bad injector (that wasn't on the side that was being used to monitor A/F) so I'm guessing there's some power there too.
