What to look at while my oil pan is off
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I pulled the pan to install a silicon gasket while I am doing the motor mounts. Is there anything I should check/eyeball while the pan is off.
Also, the majority of the 375 bolts that held my oil pan on were only finger tight, is this right?
Also, the majority of the 375 bolts that held my oil pan on were only finger tight, is this right?
#2
Three Wheelin'
#3
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Edit - Rod bearings I have read. http://www.928oc.org/928oc_michigan/tbelt8.html
Doing the rod bearings seemed like a good idea, while you're in there and all that....until I started doing it. I started with the #6 bearing since I've read the #4 and #6 are the two that usually fail first but the one I replaced looked so good I stopped right there...
Working on jackstands laying on your back that job isn't so easy. If I had a lift I may have continued even though the bearings didn't show any significant sign of wear.
Just a thought.
#4
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have used the cork oil pan gaskets and now use the silicon gasket. I have always just snuged up the oil pan bolts and do not torque them. I also dip the bolts in gasket sealer or have used hondabond/yamabond on the bolts. Last time I checked the bolts are still tight.
I believe going W/ the stud kit solves alot of this, but I am happy W/ using the bolts.
The other thing you might want to look at/replace is the rubber gasket for the oil pick up tube.
I believe going W/ the stud kit solves alot of this, but I am happy W/ using the bolts.
The other thing you might want to look at/replace is the rubber gasket for the oil pick up tube.
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Santa Rosa Beach, FL
Posts: 977
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I started down that road when I had the pan off.
Doing the rod bearings seemed like a good idea, while you're in there and all that....until I started doing it. I started with the #6 bearing since I've read the #4 and #6 are the two that usually fail first but the one I replaced looked so good I stopped right there...
Working on jackstands laying on your back that job isn't so easy. If I had a lift I may have continued even though the bearings didn't show any significant sign of wear.
Just a thought.
Doing the rod bearings seemed like a good idea, while you're in there and all that....until I started doing it. I started with the #6 bearing since I've read the #4 and #6 are the two that usually fail first but the one I replaced looked so good I stopped right there...
Working on jackstands laying on your back that job isn't so easy. If I had a lift I may have continued even though the bearings didn't show any significant sign of wear.
Just a thought.
#7
Supercharged
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Back in Michigan - Full time!
Posts: 18,925
Likes: 0
Received 60 Likes
on
34 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My car had about 135k when I did the rod bearings. They were in very good shape, but I replaced them anyway. If I were to do it again, I wouldn't touch them until 200k miles.
The stud kit really helps with aligning the gasket. I recommend it highly.
The stud kit really helps with aligning the gasket. I recommend it highly.
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
See this thread also: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-stud-kit.html
![Name: IMG_0805-2.jpg
Views: 137
Size: 109.1 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/349077d1238735547-what-to-look-at-while-my-oil-pan-is-off-img_0805-2.jpg)
#9
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
jcorenman's picture gave me another idea....looks like it might be a little easier to install some headers while you have the underside dismantled
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#10
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Did a little (SIYF) 'search is your friend' action and found this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/4238563-post33.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/4240026-post42.html
Nutshell is that buying one set of rod bearings may not be so easy due to three tolerance grades based on tightness. Buying aftermarket might not be as advisable either.
Learn something new every day!
https://rennlist.com/forums/4238563-post33.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/4240026-post42.html
Nutshell is that buying one set of rod bearings may not be so easy due to three tolerance grades based on tightness. Buying aftermarket might not be as advisable either.
Learn something new every day!
![typing](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/yltype.gif)
#11
Three Wheelin'
#12
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
At least inspect the 2/6 rod journal and bearing. You may not replace it, but look it over. Also check the pickup tube/screen for gunk. Install a GTS baffle in the pan. Use yamabond on the pan bolts when you reinstall with a silicone gasket, or the stud kit from 928sRUS. Inspect the center webbing of the thrust journal for fore and aft play. It's prolly fine, but a good visual check just found one that was DITW, and the block had to be replaced. Look at the rear main seal for leaks.
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Wilbraham, MA
Posts: 2,758
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I figure if I replace the rod bearings, I will always wonder if I did them right, presuming I don't have any obvious problems during the process. Lying on my back checking clearance does not sound like a simple task.
If I don't replace the rod bearings, I will always wonder If I should have.
So, if I have to wonder, I will do so and save myself the time and expense of changing them.
I haven't heard of failures on street cars, although I am sure it does happen.
Thanks for the post Andrew, you make me feel a little bit better about not touching them, although checking the 2/6 is still tempting...
As Ed Ruiz would say YMMV
#15
Shameful Thread Killer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have the oil pan off on my 155k GT.
I figure if I replace the rod bearings, I will always wonder if I did them right, presuming I don't have any obvious problems during the process. Lying on my back checking clearance does not sound like a simple task.
If I don't replace the rod bearings, I will always wonder If I should have.
So, if I have to wonder, I will do so and save myself the time and expense of changing them.
I haven't heard of failures on street cars, although I am sure it does happen.
Thanks for the post Andrew, you make me feel a little bit better about not touching them, although checking the 2/6 is still tempting...
As Ed Ruiz would say YMMV
I figure if I replace the rod bearings, I will always wonder if I did them right, presuming I don't have any obvious problems during the process. Lying on my back checking clearance does not sound like a simple task.
If I don't replace the rod bearings, I will always wonder If I should have.
So, if I have to wonder, I will do so and save myself the time and expense of changing them.
I haven't heard of failures on street cars, although I am sure it does happen.
Thanks for the post Andrew, you make me feel a little bit better about not touching them, although checking the 2/6 is still tempting...
As Ed Ruiz would say YMMV