BIMMERMIKE

Hey Cosmo, I have a set from RPM Performance, purchased from a fellow Rennlister. Never instaled your welcome to try them.
I'm not far from you.

James-man

Either Ken's or Ebays will give you gains. 85/86 it is hard not to. I would go with Ken if were you.

He has more impressive results than any other chip-related mods for your model year.

nsantolick

What can a chip add to a x-pipe'd and high flow catted but otherwise stock 1989 S4 with an auto? I heard they were almost unnoticeable without other mods but don't know much about them in general...

oz928s4

are the chips hard to interchange and there are 2 ????? one for spark and one for fuel...
Can you buy the chips set fairly closely for running superchargers at 6 psi

Cosmo Kramer

Hi Mike, thank-you! Are they basically the same Ebay AA clones? I will PM you when I am going to be down that way.

Why aren't you running them in your 86.5?

Mike Frye

If you've ever installed/changed a computer chip it's not difficult. The eBay and AA chips come in a pair and you have to open up your LH and also your EZF boxes.

Ken's chip is for the EZF only (the one with the vacuum port on it), and works in conjunction with the stock LH chip so you only have to swap 1.

Also, Ken ships his in a holder with stiff legs that slide into the chip saddle so you don't have to worry about bending them. The others don't.

Basically switching the chip requires:
*** "Disconnect battery ground strap" before unplugging LH or EZF (or K). (There is continuous 12V on the LH/EZ connectors).
Unplug and remove EZF box from car.
Ground yourself.
Remove the two phillips screws from the back of the LH.
Pry the metal holder tabs on the back of the LH enough so you can lift the cover off of it.
Locate the stock chip and *gently* pry it up at the corners in between the chip and the holder with a small screwdriver. Work your way around because if you lift one end while the pins at the other end are still in you'll bend them or snap them off.

Locate Pin1 on the chip (the end of the chip with the little indentation in it) Locate where pin1 goes on the board (the white outline on the board and chip holder have an indentation on them as well.

Line up the chip so all pins are resting on a metal tab of the chip saddle (if it's not Ken's chip you may have to line one side up, then *gently* press the other side in so they all align at once.
Next gently press the chip down so it evenly slides down into the chip saddle.

Replace the cover, bend back a couple of the tabs unless you're REALLY sure you want this to last forever in which case bend them all back, replace screws, reinstall.

*(Deal is the same for the LH)
Edit: added warning Jim, thanks Jim.

jcorenman

Important: Insert "Disconnect battery ground strap" before unplugging LH or EZF (or K). (There is continuous 12V on the LH/EZ connectors).

And just a caution on AA chips: Remember that the EZF does not have knock sensors or automatic retard. I found the AA chip for the S4 to have quite a bit of additional advance, with an S4 that is not a big deal as the EZK will just dial it back. I don't know if the AA chip for the S3 is equally agressive, if it is then detonation could be a problem. Ken has fitted a "knock-lite" to his car and I believe his timing is a bit more conservative.

PorKen

If you are installing a bare chip, (as Mike said, I preinstall mine in a chip socket, and put a pin 1 paint mark to make them easier to R&R), first lay the chip on it's side on a piece of glass, and gently bend all the pins at once so they are pointing down with only the slightest flare out. Double check that all the pins are straight side to side, too.

It's a good idea to disconnect the battery, but the LH2² and EZF don't have stored memory so they don't have constant 12V like LH2³/EZK. (LH2²/EZF pinouts.)

The current EZF'r 1.0 chip is based on the concept I thought up with external wiring (which you can do at home), but the WOT bypass is coded in, it has a little extra timing, and some idle smoothing. The timing is conservative, but it still dynos higher than the clone. I should have an updated chip with more aggressive tuning in a few months. (I will swap V1 for V2 for free at that time.)

I'm running the updated chip but I have a (S4 knock sensor, a KnockLite, and an automatic retard circuit). I hope to have a plug-n-play version of that soon.

oz928s4

Thanks gents...