blower issue I
03-20-2009, 11:56 AM
#107
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OK, Malcolm I did have the wires reversed in the resister group why I do not know I bought the car used.
I changed the wires the way they should be and I cut the red /white wire of that goes to pin 8, which was in pin 4 for what ever reason, none the less after the change i have voltatge with the jumper in place and on at pin 4 in resister group ( red wire) and also all other pins in that group, I also have voltage in pin 5 of the blower switch as well as all other pins in the blower switch plug (Total of 5 pins).
I tied to engage the A/C button and the a/c came on and blows nice and cold, when I chaged the blower speeds I noticed that a slight change in speed was heard they all seem to be very strong with the selector in the middle anyway and temp on 65 degree, the other thing I noticed was when I would change the speed of the blower with the a/c button on that lights up the light would get brighter and dimmer as I would move the speed control **** from low to high or 1-4.
I do not know if that is normal for this car or not. But all seems to work on pin 87 now with jumper in 30to 87 and on. I think I am ready to try and solve pin 86 now, but as someone said don't be so quick to ride that fast horse so if things don't seem as they shouild based on what I have told you for 87 let me know.
I looked at the diagram for pin 86, I think it is G14 wire and it travels thru internal sensor and ends up at the head or maybe not. I am not sure how to start fixing 86 so if someone can start me out I will get it fixed and then my baby will Ok with that item at least. I can then put the relay back in place and off I go with cold air when I use the controls. I am sorry for being off the thread but I have a job and have not been able to work on the car until last night when I got off before dark.
I am not sure how 86 should get power, from the key or from the control head, either way I think the key has to be on to test it and I did test it for voltage with the key on and it does not have voltage.
Please if anyone is there let me know how or where I should start on this problem now?????
Thanks Tony H.
I changed the wires the way they should be and I cut the red /white wire of that goes to pin 8, which was in pin 4 for what ever reason, none the less after the change i have voltatge with the jumper in place and on at pin 4 in resister group ( red wire) and also all other pins in that group, I also have voltage in pin 5 of the blower switch as well as all other pins in the blower switch plug (Total of 5 pins).
I tied to engage the A/C button and the a/c came on and blows nice and cold, when I chaged the blower speeds I noticed that a slight change in speed was heard they all seem to be very strong with the selector in the middle anyway and temp on 65 degree, the other thing I noticed was when I would change the speed of the blower with the a/c button on that lights up the light would get brighter and dimmer as I would move the speed control **** from low to high or 1-4.
I do not know if that is normal for this car or not. But all seems to work on pin 87 now with jumper in 30to 87 and on. I think I am ready to try and solve pin 86 now, but as someone said don't be so quick to ride that fast horse so if things don't seem as they shouild based on what I have told you for 87 let me know.
I looked at the diagram for pin 86, I think it is G14 wire and it travels thru internal sensor and ends up at the head or maybe not. I am not sure how to start fixing 86 so if someone can start me out I will get it fixed and then my baby will Ok with that item at least. I can then put the relay back in place and off I go with cold air when I use the controls. I am sorry for being off the thread but I have a job and have not been able to work on the car until last night when I got off before dark.
I am not sure how 86 should get power, from the key or from the control head, either way I think the key has to be on to test it and I did test it for voltage with the key on and it does not have voltage.
Please if anyone is there let me know how or where I should start on this problem now?????
Thanks Tony H.
03-20-2009, 11:58 AM
#108
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Brett I used the picture from the internet becuase it looks like my car in color and year, I have a mirror on my car and it also has the the bra covers for the mirrors and front end made by Porsche I really don't like the way that looks but it does protect from road rash alot.
Thanks for looking and helping on this thread.
Tony H.
Thanks for looking and helping on this thread.
Tony H.
GO TONY- it's your birthday... GO TONY!
03-20-2009, 02:20 PM
#111
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Tony.............if you re-read Wallys posts you'll see the necessary info for trouble shooting the relay and its associated wiring.
I'd start at the beginning with the key on, the hvac set in the middle and relay X removed.
You should have +12v on terminals 30 and 86............................................yes/no?
You should have no voltage on 87..............................................................yes/no?
You should measure 0 resistance between terminal 85 and ground..............yes/no?
I'd start at the beginning with the key on, the hvac set in the middle and relay X removed.
You should have +12v on terminals 30 and 86............................................yes/no?
You should have no voltage on 87..............................................................yes/no?
You should measure 0 resistance between terminal 85 and ground..............yes/no?
03-20-2009, 06:05 PM
#115
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Malcolm, I will do that later today, My original test before any of this showed no power to 86 and (0) ohms to 85 ( mp ground), and 30 always had +12 VDC, I will re - test the pins again today to see if I have +12 Volts on 86 with key on and no jumper in place and the posiiton in the middle as you have stated. I will use a seperate ground to test 86 like the door jam.
Should the A/C button be pushed in as if I were going to use the compressor when I test 86 for +12 volts or would that make any difference at all? Also does the light usally get brighter and dimmer with the speed control switch being changed as mine did, alsmost as to let you know you are at a lower a/c amount??? The actual light got dimmer and then brighter with the switch as I would change positions of the blower ****.
Thanks so much, As I remember in the original message from WallyP He said I should have power to 30 and 86 , if not on 86 find the problem and fix it, well that is most likely going to be my problem unles fixing 87 also somehow fixed 86.
Finding the problem is where I may well lets not say may lets say will need the help like last time on 87 I am starting to undestand the diagrams but when th wire meets other aras I am not sure if it continues or splits like when it hits a solid thicker black line. So I will let you know what I find out on 86 ASAP.
Thank you so much you have been a great help and very patient with me as I am very new to not only Rennlist but my Porsche 928 as well. Most all other items work in the car electrically except the rear hatch release, and I can use a key to open it I am not that lazy yet but i will find that problem one day as well. I truly think my switch's on the floor beside the seats are stuck on, when I plug in the wire at the bottom of the relaese ijust keeps turning aroud and around like it is being asked to open the trunk continually.,
First things first i will test 86 and get it right then move on if and when I can. As the one member said don't ride that horse so fast in all directions.
Thanks Tony H.
Should the A/C button be pushed in as if I were going to use the compressor when I test 86 for +12 volts or would that make any difference at all? Also does the light usally get brighter and dimmer with the speed control switch being changed as mine did, alsmost as to let you know you are at a lower a/c amount??? The actual light got dimmer and then brighter with the switch as I would change positions of the blower ****.
Thanks so much, As I remember in the original message from WallyP He said I should have power to 30 and 86 , if not on 86 find the problem and fix it, well that is most likely going to be my problem unles fixing 87 also somehow fixed 86.
Finding the problem is where I may well lets not say may lets say will need the help like last time on 87 I am starting to undestand the diagrams but when th wire meets other aras I am not sure if it continues or splits like when it hits a solid thicker black line. So I will let you know what I find out on 86 ASAP.
Thank you so much you have been a great help and very patient with me as I am very new to not only Rennlist but my Porsche 928 as well. Most all other items work in the car electrically except the rear hatch release, and I can use a key to open it I am not that lazy yet but i will find that problem one day as well. I truly think my switch's on the floor beside the seats are stuck on, when I plug in the wire at the bottom of the relaese ijust keeps turning aroud and around like it is being asked to open the trunk continually.,
First things first i will test 86 and get it right then move on if and when I can. As the one member said don't ride that horse so fast in all directions.
Thanks Tony H.
03-20-2009, 06:11 PM
#116
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To all,
My spelling and typing is getting alittle better I should make sure before I send it and I still miss some, but I am trying to get it better.
I know some people really want that correct or they can only help you with grammer or punk- u- ation.
My spelling and typing is getting alittle better I should make sure before I send it and I still miss some, but I am trying to get it better.
I know some people really want that correct or they can only help you with grammer or punk- u- ation.
03-20-2009, 07:26 PM
#117
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Tony,
Back to Page 97-221.
Starting at Terminal 86 in the Blower Relay socket:
- Terminal G14 connects to 86. This is the 4th terminal from the bottom on the left side of Plug G, the 7th plug from the left end. There should be a black wire with a red stripe (sw/rt) in this connection. This black/red wire goes up and then left. The heavy black line shows which wires are in wire harness Ks3. If you look, you will see the figure mad of the heavy black lines and the connecting lighter double lines. The wires that are in the heavy black lines in this entire figure are in Ks3.
Continuing to the left from the heavy black line, you hit a six-pin connector. The black/red wire runs thru Terminal 4 in that connector.
On the left of the connector, the black/red wire splits into two different wires, a black/red wire and a red wire with a white stripe (rt/ws). These two wires hit another heavy black line. The figure that this line is in shows which wires are in wire harness Ks921.
(The red/white wire runs to the blower motor of the Internal Sensor, the small fan under the small round grille near the center of the dash. If this blower motor is seized, it might pull the voltage down enough to kill the power on Terminal 86.)
The black/red wire continues to the left and connects to a black dot. This dot is hard connection VS V-2.
From VS V-2, two red/back wires go down and then left. One connects to Terminal 11 of the upper connector of the Control Unit, and the other hooks to Terminal 3 of the lower connector of the Control Unit.
From VS V-2, one wire runs up and connects to Terminal 15 of the AC Control Switch (the head unit). This is where the power comes from for Terminal 86.
The dashed line shows the box of the AC Control Unit. All of the conductors inside the dashed box are inside the AC Control Unit. Some are wires, and some are traces on circuit boards.
The power for the AC Control Unit comes in thru Terminal 10. If you trace the black/white wire from Terminal 10 back to the Central Electrical System box, you will find that it connects to Terminal G13, and inside the panel connects to Fuse #8.
TESTS: Do these in the order given.
- Check for power at both sides of Fuse #8 with the ignition switch on and the lower lever in anything other than OFF or DEFROST positions. There should be 12 vdc on both sides of the fuse.
- Check for power on the black/white wire on Terminal G13. There should be 12 vdc. If there is not, the problem is probably in the connections for Fuse #8.
- Check for power on the black/red wire on Terminal G14. There should be 12 vdc. If there is not, the problem is inside the AC Control Unit, or a faulty wire or connection between G13 and G14.
- Check for power on Terminal 86 of the Blower Relay socket. If there is power on G14, but not on Terminal 86, the problem is behind the Central Electrical Panel.
Back to Page 97-221.
Starting at Terminal 86 in the Blower Relay socket:
- Terminal G14 connects to 86. This is the 4th terminal from the bottom on the left side of Plug G, the 7th plug from the left end. There should be a black wire with a red stripe (sw/rt) in this connection. This black/red wire goes up and then left. The heavy black line shows which wires are in wire harness Ks3. If you look, you will see the figure mad of the heavy black lines and the connecting lighter double lines. The wires that are in the heavy black lines in this entire figure are in Ks3.
Continuing to the left from the heavy black line, you hit a six-pin connector. The black/red wire runs thru Terminal 4 in that connector.
On the left of the connector, the black/red wire splits into two different wires, a black/red wire and a red wire with a white stripe (rt/ws). These two wires hit another heavy black line. The figure that this line is in shows which wires are in wire harness Ks921.
(The red/white wire runs to the blower motor of the Internal Sensor, the small fan under the small round grille near the center of the dash. If this blower motor is seized, it might pull the voltage down enough to kill the power on Terminal 86.)
The black/red wire continues to the left and connects to a black dot. This dot is hard connection VS V-2.
From VS V-2, two red/back wires go down and then left. One connects to Terminal 11 of the upper connector of the Control Unit, and the other hooks to Terminal 3 of the lower connector of the Control Unit.
From VS V-2, one wire runs up and connects to Terminal 15 of the AC Control Switch (the head unit). This is where the power comes from for Terminal 86.
The dashed line shows the box of the AC Control Unit. All of the conductors inside the dashed box are inside the AC Control Unit. Some are wires, and some are traces on circuit boards.
The power for the AC Control Unit comes in thru Terminal 10. If you trace the black/white wire from Terminal 10 back to the Central Electrical System box, you will find that it connects to Terminal G13, and inside the panel connects to Fuse #8.
TESTS: Do these in the order given.
- Check for power at both sides of Fuse #8 with the ignition switch on and the lower lever in anything other than OFF or DEFROST positions. There should be 12 vdc on both sides of the fuse.
- Check for power on the black/white wire on Terminal G13. There should be 12 vdc. If there is not, the problem is probably in the connections for Fuse #8.
- Check for power on the black/red wire on Terminal G14. There should be 12 vdc. If there is not, the problem is inside the AC Control Unit, or a faulty wire or connection between G13 and G14.
- Check for power on Terminal 86 of the Blower Relay socket. If there is power on G14, but not on Terminal 86, the problem is behind the Central Electrical Panel.
03-23-2009, 04:29 PM
#118
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Hi WallyP, I did the tests in the order you said to do them I have 12+ volts on boths isde so of fuse 8 and on G13 wire and G14 wire, but I do not have it on 86 pin of relay socket so based on what you said in the last message I am to guess or assume the problem is behind the relay panel, which looks like a real job to take out and look at the back to try and find what wire is not connected to 86 of the relay socket to I would guess G14. I had 12+ volts everywhere you said check except on 86 of th relay socket.
I am mot sure I can handel the removal of all of the panel with all of those wires at the bottom to flip it over to find the broken or burnt off wire, I guess you have to take all of the wires loose and the whole relay panel out of the car and it sure looks like it would be hard to know which goes back where if they all are just laying on the floor after you take them out at the bottom anyway.
Do all of the wires at the bottom have to be removed to take the relay panel out? Do all of the the relays have to be removed or can they stay pluged in when the panel is removed? My circut seems complete except from G14 to relay socket 86.
Are there any short cuts to getting to the back of the panel or does all wires and relays have to come out and then screws at the top of the panel. I guess I could label every section of wires at the botom like (A1 A2) (B1 B2) and so on but if there is some other way let me know please. Can a jumper wire be ran in front of the panel from G14 wire to the front of 86 pin then plug in the the relay and make the connection that way?.
One thing I think you siad in a thread some where is that 85 pin should have (0) ohms, when I went to ground and 85 my meter said 0.03 on the dcv setting I was using to test for 12+VDC on the rest of the wires and pins is that OK? I am not sure how to test ohms with the meter.
I am new to all of this but i am starting to get the idea. With the great help anfd patience you al have had with me.
I hope to hear from you soon as to haow the best way to get the wire from pin 86 to wire G14 repaired. I asume when you say behind the central electrical panel you do mean relay panel.
Thanks so much
Tony H.
I am mot sure I can handel the removal of all of the panel with all of those wires at the bottom to flip it over to find the broken or burnt off wire, I guess you have to take all of the wires loose and the whole relay panel out of the car and it sure looks like it would be hard to know which goes back where if they all are just laying on the floor after you take them out at the bottom anyway.
Do all of the wires at the bottom have to be removed to take the relay panel out? Do all of the the relays have to be removed or can they stay pluged in when the panel is removed? My circut seems complete except from G14 to relay socket 86.
Are there any short cuts to getting to the back of the panel or does all wires and relays have to come out and then screws at the top of the panel. I guess I could label every section of wires at the botom like (A1 A2) (B1 B2) and so on but if there is some other way let me know please. Can a jumper wire be ran in front of the panel from G14 wire to the front of 86 pin then plug in the the relay and make the connection that way?.
One thing I think you siad in a thread some where is that 85 pin should have (0) ohms, when I went to ground and 85 my meter said 0.03 on the dcv setting I was using to test for 12+VDC on the rest of the wires and pins is that OK? I am not sure how to test ohms with the meter.
I am new to all of this but i am starting to get the idea. With the great help anfd patience you al have had with me.
I hope to hear from you soon as to haow the best way to get the wire from pin 86 to wire G14 repaired. I asume when you say behind the central electrical panel you do mean relay panel.
Thanks so much
Tony H.
03-23-2009, 04:37 PM
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I di have one other question would it make a differnece if the jumper was in place when I tested pin 86 of the relay socket? I had it in place but not on with the toggle switch. It was was just connected not running.
Thanks Tony H.
Thanks Tony H.