Alternator bad, pod indicator lights blink intermittantly
03-01-2009, 06:13 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
T-Max,
After dicking with 4 of these cars, plus a 944, in the last year and a half, I'm a fan of pulling the alternator air intake cover early in the diagnosis of alternator problems. A couple times I pulled the cover, then remounted the alternator. That gave me access to the hot lead and the exciter lead for continuity checks, plus let me put a meter into the mix to monitor performance with the car driving the alternator.
But, I've had the "lit warning lights" with other issues. Dirty grounds, bad ignition switch and low battery.
Post #18 of the thread, below, may have some relevance to you because it is a pretty good picture of a 14 pin connector that has been fully taken apart. My problem was not the male/female contact corrosion, but instead the wires themselves. Running a series of continuity checks helped.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...er-solved.html
One side note. Every single thing I've done to troubleshoot these cars has been lifted from rennlist, most of it from Wally, Alan, Jim B, edit add Mr. Merlin & Tails, or somebody else that used the inputs & experience of these guys to fix stuff! Everything I've said, they've already said. But the pictures above might help!
After dicking with 4 of these cars, plus a 944, in the last year and a half, I'm a fan of pulling the alternator air intake cover early in the diagnosis of alternator problems. A couple times I pulled the cover, then remounted the alternator. That gave me access to the hot lead and the exciter lead for continuity checks, plus let me put a meter into the mix to monitor performance with the car driving the alternator.
But, I've had the "lit warning lights" with other issues. Dirty grounds, bad ignition switch and low battery.
Post #18 of the thread, below, may have some relevance to you because it is a pretty good picture of a 14 pin connector that has been fully taken apart. My problem was not the male/female contact corrosion, but instead the wires themselves. Running a series of continuity checks helped.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...er-solved.html
One side note. Every single thing I've done to troubleshoot these cars has been lifted from rennlist, most of it from Wally, Alan, Jim B, edit add Mr. Merlin & Tails, or somebody else that used the inputs & experience of these guys to fix stuff! Everything I've said, they've already said. But the pictures above might help!
07-17-2011, 06:36 PM
#17
4th Gear
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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Hey Everyone,
Amazingly enough, my poor shark has been just sitting for the last couple years, though started and run periodically. A friend of mine, Nicole wants a project car to work on and this has reinspired me to delve back into getting the shark back on the road. yay!
So, the electrical/charging problem is not yet solved but we are working on it. With the battery in and ignition on, pin 1 on the 14-pin connector is around 12.5 volts, similar to the jump terminal. After the engine is started pin 1 drops to about 10 volts at 2k RPM we see a 1 volt increase. We jumped pin 1 to jump terminal and saw no difference. At 5000 RPM there was a slight increase above 11 volts.
Our next step will be to remove the alternator, take off the shroud, and check continuities and voltages. From the cockpit perspective, when I turn the key to the "on" position I don't see the oil light indicator, however when I turn the engine off with the key still on the oil light is illuminated.
Question? what is the best way to set the Alternator belt tension and do I need to buy a Kempf tool to do it?
Any suggestions or comments as to what to do next are greatly appreciated.
Mark and Nicole (who will be joining the rennlist today! and I will be renewing my membership as well!)
Amazingly enough, my poor shark has been just sitting for the last couple years, though started and run periodically. A friend of mine, Nicole wants a project car to work on and this has reinspired me to delve back into getting the shark back on the road. yay!
So, the electrical/charging problem is not yet solved but we are working on it. With the battery in and ignition on, pin 1 on the 14-pin connector is around 12.5 volts, similar to the jump terminal. After the engine is started pin 1 drops to about 10 volts at 2k RPM we see a 1 volt increase. We jumped pin 1 to jump terminal and saw no difference. At 5000 RPM there was a slight increase above 11 volts.
Our next step will be to remove the alternator, take off the shroud, and check continuities and voltages. From the cockpit perspective, when I turn the key to the "on" position I don't see the oil light indicator, however when I turn the engine off with the key still on the oil light is illuminated.
Question? what is the best way to set the Alternator belt tension and do I need to buy a Kempf tool to do it?
Any suggestions or comments as to what to do next are greatly appreciated.
Mark and Nicole (who will be joining the rennlist today! and I will be renewing my membership as well!)
