Poorly running S4, help
#16
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OK, let's review. Engine has had heads off. Heads were reworked. Heads installed. Pass side has good compression at about 140psi, driver side has 80-90psi. Each bank shares; head, cams, chain, valve train, gasket int and ex manifold.
Has the following been checked:
oil in coolant
coolant in oil
intake runner clear
exhaust mani clear
I think we need a compound compression gauge at this point.
http://www.carshopinc.com/product_in...id/59233/CSLDT
We need to find out where that pressure is going. with this tool, you connect an air source to the inlet and put a calibrated amount of air at 80psi into each hole. We then listen for air escaping from the exhaust, or intake, or crankcase. It's a good tool for this type of diagnostics.
Has the following been checked:
oil in coolant
coolant in oil
intake runner clear
exhaust mani clear
I think we need a compound compression gauge at this point.
http://www.carshopinc.com/product_in...id/59233/CSLDT
We need to find out where that pressure is going. with this tool, you connect an air source to the inlet and put a calibrated amount of air at 80psi into each hole. We then listen for air escaping from the exhaust, or intake, or crankcase. It's a good tool for this type of diagnostics.
#17
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are there any cast numbers on the cams it might be a good idea to post them
#18
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One point is that the heads/cams are not engines' originals, that's why I suspect them a bit. The cam identifiers are stamped on the rear end of the cams and I'm trying to find a suitably small mirror to see them
. At this point removing the cams seem inevitable though so I think I'll remove them tomorrow.
32v'r measurement at TDC should be reliable right?
doc: the intake cam timing is way off, which kinda explains the missing compression. it's 1.6mm at 2|0 when it should be 2.0mm, so intake valves open too late. possibly this means that head needs to come off aswell due possible valve damage
. Is there a reliable way to calculate this?
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32v'r measurement at TDC should be reliable right?
doc: the intake cam timing is way off, which kinda explains the missing compression. it's 1.6mm at 2|0 when it should be 2.0mm, so intake valves open too late. possibly this means that head needs to come off aswell due possible valve damage
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#19
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Okay I checked the cams, 294 08 and 292 09 which seem to be the correct ones. That leaves the chain.
Here's two pics (rotated between pics) and everything seems to be ok.
The chain is old, I assume normal wear is out of the question but can a chain stretch that much assuming there's been a TBF in the past?
Here's two pics (rotated between pics) and everything seems to be ok.
The chain is old, I assume normal wear is out of the question but can a chain stretch that much assuming there's been a TBF in the past?
#20
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did you verify that the correct cam is in the correct position??
The WSM has info on cam position
The WSM has info on cam position
#21
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I'm not sure what you mean, perhaps I'm a bit slow.
Visual inspection (as can be seen on the photos) shows that the cams are in correct position relative to each other by counting the chain links. I haven't measured the specified 113mm distance between cam markings which I shall do next.
Visual inspection (as can be seen on the photos) shows that the cams are in correct position relative to each other by counting the chain links. I haven't measured the specified 113mm distance between cam markings which I shall do next.
#22
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Each cam, left intake and exhaust, and right intake and exhaust are a different PN. I don't think the engine would fire at all if the cams were in the wrong location. Maybe you got two right side cam sets in the car? If so, I guess the timing could be off enough to run but not correctly.
The PNs should be different for each cam. Something to check.
The PNs should be different for each cam. Something to check.
#23
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I posted the cam numbers a bit earlier, they're the right cams for bank 5-8.
Today measured the distance between cams and got 117mm ±1, that's 4mm longer than the specified 113mm.
Today measured the distance between cams and got 117mm ±1, that's 4mm longer than the specified 113mm.
#25
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There's a set of Aluminum tools that have notches in them to set on the cams to check alignment. Roger at 928sRUS has them, and I think if you ask nicely he'll loan them to you for a few days.
Please put your location in you sig or near your avatar.
Please put your location in you sig or near your avatar.
#28
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Yes, the raised bumps on the cams are nibs. Sorry, I didn't know you were in Finland. Can I drive to St Petersburg from there? I wanna take a road trip across the northern Europe this summer and go to The Hermitage.
#29
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Sure you can, assuming you have a Visa. I'd take the train myself though. There's somewhat involved red tape adventure for you especially since you're probably not the owner of the car, but I guess that's part of the thrill heh heh
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#30
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If the nibs are off by that much, then you will have to rotate the cam until it lines up. Install the cams so the nibs are pointed straight up, measure, and then put the chain on, then measure it again.
The tool Doc is talking about is tool #9248. If you are looking at the WSM, page 15-119 shows them and how to use them is on page 15-127 and 15-128. There is an illustration showing how to do it.
The tool Doc is talking about is tool #9248. If you are looking at the WSM, page 15-119 shows them and how to use them is on page 15-127 and 15-128. There is an illustration showing how to do it.