Why doesn't extrude hone of '87- manifold not work?
#31
I seem to remember a post either on here or the mailing list where an extrude honed intake and bored larger throttle body were tested on a race stroker, and the dyno results indicated a 4hp loss from those modifications.
#32
Nordschleife Master
It was somewhere over half a dozen years ago, but they quoted me $600 at that time to do an S4 manifold.
I seem to remember a post either on here or the mailing list where an extrude honed intake and bored larger throttle body were tested on a race stroker, and the dyno results indicated a 4hp loss from those modifications.
I seem to remember a post either on here or the mailing list where an extrude honed intake and bored larger throttle body were tested on a race stroker, and the dyno results indicated a 4hp loss from those modifications.
#33
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Very interesting. Thank you for the info.
Why do you think that is, by the way? One would think that wider runners and wider throttle body would at least not hurt the top end. Kill the mid range, yes, but why would the top power be down? Any guesses?
ptuomov
#34
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It would seem like you would want to run the extrudehone media through the whole intake and throttle body at the same time. And maybe the heads as well, if you could rig the whole thing up... It just seems like a waste of money. It probably won't hurt, but won't help that much either. If I was going to do some work on the intake, I would probably just match the ports to the heads, smooth out some of the rough casting areas, powdercoat the whole thing, and call it done...
#35
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
It would seem like you would want to run the extrudehone media through the whole intake and throttle body at the same time. And maybe the heads as well, if you could rig the whole thing up... It just seems like a waste of money. It probably won't hurt, but won't help that much either.
My only theory is that the factory has coated the manifold internals with some sort of material that makes the manifold very slippery for air. When the manifold is extrude honed, the slippery coating is removed in the process. The loss of coating may have a bigger impact than the increased diameter. But this is just a theory.
One way to test the theory would be to dyno a stock manifold, then extrude hone the absolute minimum amount and dyno again, and finally send the manifold dry film (or some similar) lubricant coated and dyno once more.
#36
By IcemanG17
I plan on making my throttle bodies for my 2 valve and at this stage they will have variable length trumpets to take advantage of the natural ram tuning.
Greg
It will be interesting to see what new intakes 2009 brings us..Doc Brown has one in the works, others are working on modded stock intakes and Adam has that modded M5 individual runner intake that looks promising....
Greg
#37
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I have an overbored TB and IMHO its needed for better perf at my level...... I also thing that an extrude honed intake with an over bored TB & intake side spacers will yield improvements on and S4/GT/GTS that has already added an xpipe, and hotter cams. I also think that the oval inlets from the lower intake to the upper intake need to be ported as well. This would require special equipment (flow bench) to really dial it in... lucky for me I know someone here locally that could do the job.... its a known fact that a stroker 928 got close to 550 RWHP with a larger TB, side spacers and an extrude honed TB..... thats only 25-30rwhp less than what is seen from the ITB setups.....
#38
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But the evidence above was that boring the
My only theory is that the factory has coated the manifold internals with some sort of material that makes the manifold very slippery for air. When the manifold is extrude honed, the slippery coating is removed in the process. The loss of coating may have a bigger impact than the increased diameter. But this is just a theory.
.
My only theory is that the factory has coated the manifold internals with some sort of material that makes the manifold very slippery for air. When the manifold is extrude honed, the slippery coating is removed in the process. The loss of coating may have a bigger impact than the increased diameter. But this is just a theory.
.
#39
I figure that experiment would probably cost around $1,200. ($75 for the before dynos, $600 for the extrude honing, maybe $150 for the bigger throttle body, $75 for the after dynos, maybe $200 for the coating, and $75 for the final dynos.) If anybody tries it without making any other changes to the engine besides those, it would be interesting to see the results.
#41
extrude hone, now this process is basically they shoot a type of media down the runners in an attempt to remove some of the material and in effect enlarge the ID somewhat and probably clean up the interior surface texture to a degree.
Im wondering if there maybe a better way to do this for the home hobby guy.
Now what i picture is something in shape with your standard cylinder hone, that you put on the end of a cordless drill to hone your Cheby's and what not.
What about something like that, but a much smaller diameter to fit the general runner size, and instead of the ***** on the end, some other type of abrasive media at the ends that will clean up the mag intake runners? This should produce more even results then hand porting would, and would take probably 1/10th the time (assuming it works at all)
Does anyone know of such a honing tool that could work on our runners?
I am then thinking that an air drill or a corded drill would be best for this as you would probably go through batteries in minutes but thats a small concern really,
Does any such honing tool exist?
If not, how difficult would it be to create something like this?
OH AND I CALL DIBS ON THE PATENT !
Maybe something like this? I believe this would be to large but maybe its a start? It comes in 120 180 and 320 grit. I imagine to remove more metal though you would need some other type of abrasive though
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-8...#ht_983wt_1444
Im wondering if there maybe a better way to do this for the home hobby guy.
Now what i picture is something in shape with your standard cylinder hone, that you put on the end of a cordless drill to hone your Cheby's and what not.
What about something like that, but a much smaller diameter to fit the general runner size, and instead of the ***** on the end, some other type of abrasive media at the ends that will clean up the mag intake runners? This should produce more even results then hand porting would, and would take probably 1/10th the time (assuming it works at all)
Does anyone know of such a honing tool that could work on our runners?
I am then thinking that an air drill or a corded drill would be best for this as you would probably go through batteries in minutes but thats a small concern really,
Does any such honing tool exist?
If not, how difficult would it be to create something like this?
OH AND I CALL DIBS ON THE PATENT !
Maybe something like this? I believe this would be to large but maybe its a start? It comes in 120 180 and 320 grit. I imagine to remove more metal though you would need some other type of abrasive though
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-5-8...#ht_983wt_1444
Last edited by inactiveuser1; 06-29-2012 at 08:51 AM.
#42
IIRC, David Wizard has said that shape is 98% and shiny finish rest 2% Perhaps slightly exaggregated, but still...
This applies also to intake pipes as well as intake port. Actually 60 - 80 grit is good for intake port or just use plain quality casting finish.
The exhaust port is different animal, it can have more shiny finish as it's not carrying the wet flow.Also exhaust port shiny finis prevents exhaust somke and particles to stick to port surface.
Air has a mass just like any fluid and therefore it doesn like to turn quickly. This is getting worse when air is moving at higher velocity.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng.../photo_16.html
One of the problem with 32V(S4 up) intake is that there are way too many strict turnings, which will generate turbulence and slows down the air velocity. This will also cause unequal cylinder filling, which will drop the overall volumetric efficiency. Too little gap between some of the intake bell mouths and intake wall is another issue.
At 2000 RPM a camshaft with 200 degrees of intake valve duration, the intake valve is open for 0.0166 seconds/cycle.
At 6500 RPM the valve is only open for .005128 seconds/cycle. You can imagine of how little time there is to fill the cylinder. Air should speed up it's velocity from zero to max. of 0.5 - 0.6 mach (if port has optimal size) in very little time. Less flow restrictions will help there significantly.
If one would like to improve the original intake, he may want to consider doing something similar, what Jim M. did for Dennis Kaos GT intake as a part of tuning process:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...the-gap-8.html
This applies also to intake pipes as well as intake port. Actually 60 - 80 grit is good for intake port or just use plain quality casting finish.
The exhaust port is different animal, it can have more shiny finish as it's not carrying the wet flow.Also exhaust port shiny finis prevents exhaust somke and particles to stick to port surface.
Air has a mass just like any fluid and therefore it doesn like to turn quickly. This is getting worse when air is moving at higher velocity.
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/eng.../photo_16.html
One of the problem with 32V(S4 up) intake is that there are way too many strict turnings, which will generate turbulence and slows down the air velocity. This will also cause unequal cylinder filling, which will drop the overall volumetric efficiency. Too little gap between some of the intake bell mouths and intake wall is another issue.
At 2000 RPM a camshaft with 200 degrees of intake valve duration, the intake valve is open for 0.0166 seconds/cycle.
At 6500 RPM the valve is only open for .005128 seconds/cycle. You can imagine of how little time there is to fill the cylinder. Air should speed up it's velocity from zero to max. of 0.5 - 0.6 mach (if port has optimal size) in very little time. Less flow restrictions will help there significantly.
If one would like to improve the original intake, he may want to consider doing something similar, what Jim M. did for Dennis Kaos GT intake as a part of tuning process:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...the-gap-8.html
#43
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Raising this thread from the dead. The PO had my S4 intake Extrude Honed and I will be installing Victors S/C unit in a couple of weeks. I have a replacement intake. My question is was there any definitive data whether the Extrude honing made a difference? Created a loss of 4 hp? or with a S/C unit help the system. I also have a set of Carl's intake spacers and wondering if they would make any difference if i added them to the intake (Stock or Extrude honed) with an S/C unit.
#44
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Raising this thread from the dead. The PO had my S4 intake Extrude Honed and I will be installing Victors S/C unit in a couple of weeks. I have a replacement intake. My question is was there any definitive data whether the Extrude honing made a difference? Created a loss of 4 hp? or with a S/C unit help the system. I also have a set of Carl's intake spacers and wondering if they would make any difference if i added them to the intake (Stock or Extrude honed) with an S/C unit.