Rear Wheel Bearings Replaced + Fringe Benefits
#46
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Tony--
I thought you were grabbing it from Kevin before it rotated back home here. ?? I think Rob Edwards has it now after Kevin brought it to Sharktoberfest. I haven't been down to that neighborhood since then, so hopefully Rob will chime in. Yours for ship costs if you need it. I'll be at LAX 6PM tonight if you want to do a fly-by and pick it up. Your carry-on privs are probably better than mine.
For others-- The B90 tool's home base is probably moving to central Oregon mid next year, so SoCal users who think they might need rear bearings should plan ahead some. I can probably host at least one clinic this winter. It's going to be in the high 80's today, perhaps a little too warm for hard work out in the garage, but rumor has it there will be cooler days here when "winter" settles in. You'll want to line up new bearings, inspect axle boots, and consider that the rear brakes will be completely apart as you consider your WYAIT lists.
I thought you were grabbing it from Kevin before it rotated back home here. ?? I think Rob Edwards has it now after Kevin brought it to Sharktoberfest. I haven't been down to that neighborhood since then, so hopefully Rob will chime in. Yours for ship costs if you need it. I'll be at LAX 6PM tonight if you want to do a fly-by and pick it up. Your carry-on privs are probably better than mine.
For others-- The B90 tool's home base is probably moving to central Oregon mid next year, so SoCal users who think they might need rear bearings should plan ahead some. I can probably host at least one clinic this winter. It's going to be in the high 80's today, perhaps a little too warm for hard work out in the garage, but rumor has it there will be cooler days here when "winter" settles in. You'll want to line up new bearings, inspect axle boots, and consider that the rear brakes will be completely apart as you consider your WYAIT lists.
#47
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oppps just spotted Dr Bob`s post .
#48
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I got the B90 tool at SF13, the only wrinkle is that it's still sitting, cluttering up Tom's office at 928Intl. I'd be happy to pick it up and get it shipped to Tony, if you are so inclined. It is a heavy bugger, though it might fit in the overhead compartment as long as it's near the CG of the plane.
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Don't worry about the CG of a big plane. Fatty O Leary is messing up the CG way more than your B90
#50
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My concern is more about the sensitivity that TSA has to mere mortals carrying potentially-lethal wheel-bearing extractors through security at LAX these last few days.
At the same time though, Tom and Mark probably have a better relationship with ground carriers like UPS and FedEx Ground, and might also be willing to attach the tool to a two-new-bearings care package for delivery in Las Vegas. It's way easier that way than the time for Tony's plane ride over and back.
At the same time though, Tom and Mark probably have a better relationship with ground carriers like UPS and FedEx Ground, and might also be willing to attach the tool to a two-new-bearings care package for delivery in Las Vegas. It's way easier that way than the time for Tony's plane ride over and back.
#51
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Hey guys... I just put my car up for the winter this week and have a big list of stuff to do, bearing being one of them. Any chance I might use this after Tony is done? I just talked to Roger today about wheel bearings and outer CV boots. What a great coincidence this shows up on the forum today
I will happily pay for the shipping out to MI and then back to Dr Bob CA. Shoot I'll just give you my UPS number
I will happily pay for the shipping out to MI and then back to Dr Bob CA. Shoot I'll just give you my UPS number
#52
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Victor, there may be one closer to you. Let's see who jumps in here.
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#56
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I just did this job on a local car.
Here is how I do it,
I remove the hub from the car (leaving the CV on the transmission).
I then pop the hub out of the bearing, if the outer race stays on the hub I weld a ring around it with the MIG welder and it pops right off.
I then remove the C clip a heat the hub with a propane torch. I then hit the center of the bearing with a hammer and drift and the bearing pops right out. I take the same torch and heat the hub in the center, putting the torch so that the flame goes in a circle in the bearing opening.
Once hot I drop the bearing in (falls right in). I then put the C clip back in.
From there I take an old used head stud (S4), two thick washers, and a nut.
I use a 36mm, and an 1 1/4" sockets. I then use this as a puller and pull the entire assembly together from the center so that there is no real force on the bearing internals.
I then re-assemble.
Took around 4 hours to do both sides.....
Here is how I do it,
I remove the hub from the car (leaving the CV on the transmission).
I then pop the hub out of the bearing, if the outer race stays on the hub I weld a ring around it with the MIG welder and it pops right off.
I then remove the C clip a heat the hub with a propane torch. I then hit the center of the bearing with a hammer and drift and the bearing pops right out. I take the same torch and heat the hub in the center, putting the torch so that the flame goes in a circle in the bearing opening.
Once hot I drop the bearing in (falls right in). I then put the C clip back in.
From there I take an old used head stud (S4), two thick washers, and a nut.
I use a 36mm, and an 1 1/4" sockets. I then use this as a puller and pull the entire assembly together from the center so that there is no real force on the bearing internals.
I then re-assemble.
Took around 4 hours to do both sides.....
#57
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I just did this job on a local car.
Here is how I do it,
I remove the hub from the car (leaving the CV on the transmission).
I then pop the hub out of the bearing, if the outer race stays on the hub I weld a ring around it with the MIG welder and it pops right off.
I then remove the C clip a heat the hub with a propane torch. I then hit the center of the bearing with a hammer and drift and the bearing pops right out. I take the same torch and heat the hub in the center, putting the torch so that the flame goes in a circle in the bearing opening.
Once hot I drop the bearing in (falls right in). I then put the C clip back in.
From there I take an old used head stud (S4), two thick washers, and a nut.
I use a 36mm, and an 1 1/4" sockets. I then use this as a puller and pull the entire assembly together from the center so that there is no real force on the bearing internals.
I then re-assemble.
Took around 4 hours to do both sides.....
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Colin J
Here is how I do it,
I remove the hub from the car (leaving the CV on the transmission).
I then pop the hub out of the bearing, if the outer race stays on the hub I weld a ring around it with the MIG welder and it pops right off.
I then remove the C clip a heat the hub with a propane torch. I then hit the center of the bearing with a hammer and drift and the bearing pops right out. I take the same torch and heat the hub in the center, putting the torch so that the flame goes in a circle in the bearing opening.
Once hot I drop the bearing in (falls right in). I then put the C clip back in.
From there I take an old used head stud (S4), two thick washers, and a nut.
I use a 36mm, and an 1 1/4" sockets. I then use this as a puller and pull the entire assembly together from the center so that there is no real force on the bearing internals.
I then re-assemble.
Took around 4 hours to do both sides.....
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Colin J
Excuse my ignorance. I had a local machine shop press the old bears out for me for $50 so I don't know this part. What do you mean... you MIG welded a ring around the race? Welding is required to replace a wheel bearing?
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