Need Pirtles MM and Pan Gasket document, link does not work
12-28-2008, 10:24 PM
#1
Racer
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Need Pirtles MM and Pan Gasket document, link does not work
I had the linked saved from late last week. Going to start in the morning. It wont work for some reason?
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_mm.html
Anyone have it in word or other format you could email me?
Thanks in advance for your help.
http://members.rennlist.com/pirtle/svc_mm.html
Anyone have it in word or other format you could email me?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Last edited by blandis; 12-28-2008 at 10:42 PM.
12-29-2008, 09:56 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
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I'm right in the middle of that job myself. Just dropped my oil pan last night.. What a pain in the you know what that job is.. The bolts around the front of the pan are insane to get at..
12-29-2008, 10:24 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
You're right, it is alot of grunt work. Finished mine a few weeks ago. It's definitely worth it when you feel how smooth the engine feels. Let me know if you have any questions while it's fresh in my mind.
Wish you well.
12-29-2008, 10:27 AM
#7
Racer
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Brad got it. Appreciate the offer to use your lift. That is more than generous. Have it up and semi tore into, got a start last evening or I may take you up on your offer. Laying on a cold floor, with the car up on jackstands is much more fun!
Im in no hurry, going to spread it over a couple days probably. We will see how I feel at the end of the day!
Nick, send me any tricks you figure out will you please.
Thanks Donald for the pdf file.
Im in no hurry, going to spread it over a couple days probably. We will see how I feel at the end of the day!
Nick, send me any tricks you figure out will you please.
Thanks Donald for the pdf file.
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12-29-2008, 11:51 AM
#8
Three Wheelin'
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I think you will find the write up is spot on. A few things I noticed are:
When pulling the cross member down, I used a pry bar (breaker bar) to pry down on the lower control arm and pushed back on the cross member at the same time. Made it a bit easier to remove it.
On my '88 I have an oil level switch, there is a wire connecting to the oil pan to the left of the harmonic balancer... Make sure you remove that before you lower the pan. Wire wasn't long enough to reach the floor. Just pulls off, but the boot maybe hard and brittle.
Remove all pan bolts except two in the middle.. Then loosen them and tilt the pan to the front. If you have the car on jack stands you may have some oil still in the rear of the pan. Sucks for that to fall on your head..
I found it easier to remove the lower alternator mount to get a bit more access room to the pan bolts in that area.
A ratchet wrench would help with the front pan bolts, esp the ones you can't see. Fortunately I was missing one
To get the top nut off the motor mount, but it back on the cross member. This will make it easier to crack the nut and get it off.
AIR TOOLS RULE!!! Can't say that enough.
Take lots of pictures, makes it easier to put it back together.
Think that's all so far.
Have fun and take your time!
When pulling the cross member down, I used a pry bar (breaker bar) to pry down on the lower control arm and pushed back on the cross member at the same time. Made it a bit easier to remove it.
On my '88 I have an oil level switch, there is a wire connecting to the oil pan to the left of the harmonic balancer... Make sure you remove that before you lower the pan. Wire wasn't long enough to reach the floor. Just pulls off, but the boot maybe hard and brittle.
Remove all pan bolts except two in the middle.. Then loosen them and tilt the pan to the front. If you have the car on jack stands you may have some oil still in the rear of the pan. Sucks for that to fall on your head..
I found it easier to remove the lower alternator mount to get a bit more access room to the pan bolts in that area.
A ratchet wrench would help with the front pan bolts, esp the ones you can't see. Fortunately I was missing one
To get the top nut off the motor mount, but it back on the cross member. This will make it easier to crack the nut and get it off.
AIR TOOLS RULE!!! Can't say that enough.
Take lots of pictures, makes it easier to put it back together.
Think that's all so far.
Have fun and take your time!
12-29-2008, 12:02 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
If you pull your alternator, take a light and look upwards behind the driver's side cam gear cover (aluminum backing cover). See if you have any significant leakage at the joint between that cover and the head. Both of our 84's were leaking there. Easy to see if the alternator is off.
The reason I mention it is you are apparently chasing an oil leak. If nothing else, you can note the condition of the area.
This potential leaking point that I mentioned can snake down to the pan and make the pan look like more of a culprit than it might otherwise be. Plus its hard as hell to diagnose with the alternator in place.
The reason I mention it is you are apparently chasing an oil leak. If nothing else, you can note the condition of the area.
This potential leaking point that I mentioned can snake down to the pan and make the pan look like more of a culprit than it might otherwise be. Plus its hard as hell to diagnose with the alternator in place.
12-29-2008, 12:24 PM
#10
Drifting
So the dyno shows what most in the know talk about.....displacement equals torque and engine breathing ability affects higher rpm hp. I need more displacement like you have!!!!
