I need some help.
12-08-2008, 07:29 PM
#16
Drifting
I disagree for the time being. If he removes it and puts in a jumper, he eliminates the locks/factory alarm as a reason for it not starting. He can easily reinstall it at a later date. If he does have and aftermarket alarm, I'd bet that it's stuffed in under the radio.
12-08-2008, 07:54 PM
#17
@ sjfarbs = Thanks! Helped out tremendously. However, I have discovered one of the bolts is stripped! How can I remove it? It's the last one left.
@bd0nalds0n = I have no clue what Scotch connectors are. My dad, (who's very good with electronics/anything to do with cars) complains constantly of the P.O.'s extraordinarily awful wiring. The guy actually used shoe glue to "repair" the leather sunroof cover, and caused it to pop off whenever the hatch was opened.
Thanks for the responses guys, it really helps me out. I can't wait to get my baby on the road.
@bd0nalds0n = I have no clue what Scotch connectors are. My dad, (who's very good with electronics/anything to do with cars) complains constantly of the P.O.'s extraordinarily awful wiring. The guy actually used shoe glue to "repair" the leather sunroof cover, and caused it to pop off whenever the hatch was opened.
Thanks for the responses guys, it really helps me out. I can't wait to get my baby on the road.
You could try a locking needle nose pliers on the last allen, or a just dremel the allen head off.
Yikes, keep at it.............one more bolt and that seat is coming out!
12-08-2008, 09:39 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Between the 87 Strosek and 88 I have removed at least 8 lbs of aftermarket alarm wiring. I would remove it all if you're having lots of issues. Also look at the interior light holders as age can cause them to go bad and cause problems.
Glenn
Glenn
12-09-2008, 04:24 PM
#19
Cruisin'
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@SharkAttack - I honestly have no clue what kind of alarm it is. No, it doesn't talk, it just emits the stereotypical, Dane Cook Joke Car Alarm-esque noises.
@JHowell37 - Those boxes are connected. The alarm went haywire long before I removed the dead pedal. I'm replacing my timing belt as we speak, so I can't really try starting the engine right now. I do know the alarm's going off, as a mysterious clicking sound is heard from a circuit board my dad has placed into a ziploc bag.
The only direct evidence I have for the existence of the aftermarket alarm is my dad's word, which I consider very good. He's in Japan right now, and when he comes back, he'll be working on restoring our basement for our Christmas guests, so it'll just be me working for a while.
Wait, that's not right. I forgot about the loudspeaker/horn thing that was in the hood. I just ran out and grabbed it. It's shaped like a bullhorn, and the only sticker that hasn't been peeled away reads: "OK/N1D"; and the letters "NTK" are stamped near the bottom. I'll take a picture in a little.
If I disable the factory alarm by making that jumper wire, will there be any negative consequences? (Aside from not having an alarm.)
I didn't know those were called scotch connectors. Then again, I really don't know much about electronics.
@sjfarbs - Fun... Time to try the pliers out. I really don't want to dremmel that bolt!
@GlennM- 8 lbs?! Thats insane! How long did that take?
Would the interior light holders cause the alarm system to go off?
Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.
@JHowell37 - Those boxes are connected. The alarm went haywire long before I removed the dead pedal. I'm replacing my timing belt as we speak, so I can't really try starting the engine right now. I do know the alarm's going off, as a mysterious clicking sound is heard from a circuit board my dad has placed into a ziploc bag.
The only direct evidence I have for the existence of the aftermarket alarm is my dad's word, which I consider very good. He's in Japan right now, and when he comes back, he'll be working on restoring our basement for our Christmas guests, so it'll just be me working for a while.
Wait, that's not right. I forgot about the loudspeaker/horn thing that was in the hood. I just ran out and grabbed it. It's shaped like a bullhorn, and the only sticker that hasn't been peeled away reads: "OK/N1D"; and the letters "NTK" are stamped near the bottom. I'll take a picture in a little.
If I disable the factory alarm by making that jumper wire, will there be any negative consequences? (Aside from not having an alarm.)
I didn't know those were called scotch connectors. Then again, I really don't know much about electronics.
@sjfarbs - Fun... Time to try the pliers out. I really don't want to dremmel that bolt!
@GlennM- 8 lbs?! Thats insane! How long did that take?
Would the interior light holders cause the alarm system to go off?
Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.
12-09-2008, 04:38 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
If the Allen bolt recess is alread stripped, it's junk. Cut/drill the head off, remove the seat and move on. Use Vise-Grip or similar to remove the stub of the bolt after using PB Blaster or acetone/ATF mix as penetrant.
Start by carefully examining the wiring under the Central Electric Panel. Take a LOT of digital photos of what is there before you touch anything. Anywhere that there is a Scotchlok connector is highly suspect. Remove any wires connected with a Scotchlok, splice any that were cut, matching wire colors. Try to find the aftermarket alarm by following the added wires, trace any wires back from the box and remove them.
That should give you a good start on removing the alarm and getting the wiring repaired. As suggested earlier, you may need to temporarily bypass the factory alarm as well.
Start by carefully examining the wiring under the Central Electric Panel. Take a LOT of digital photos of what is there before you touch anything. Anywhere that there is a Scotchlok connector is highly suspect. Remove any wires connected with a Scotchlok, splice any that were cut, matching wire colors. Try to find the aftermarket alarm by following the added wires, trace any wires back from the box and remove them.
That should give you a good start on removing the alarm and getting the wiring repaired. As suggested earlier, you may need to temporarily bypass the factory alarm as well.
12-09-2008, 04:59 PM
#21
Drifting
If you remove and replace the alarm box with a jumper wire as I suggested, the only adverse affect will be that you don't have a factory alarm. And whether not having a factory alarm is bad, well that's debatable. In light of the issues you're having, the alarm could be part of the problem. By getting it out of the way, you eliminate it as part of the problem.
For the seat bolt, you can try using a bolt extractor. They're usually quite effective on that style of bolt because they're easy to drill into.
Where is this circuit board your dad placed into the plastic bag? Where did it originate?
Have you gotten the service manuals (either printed or on CD?) The one consistent feature of most of the people around here who turn their own wrenches is they have the service manuals in one form or another.
I sent you a PM.
For the seat bolt, you can try using a bolt extractor. They're usually quite effective on that style of bolt because they're easy to drill into.
Where is this circuit board your dad placed into the plastic bag? Where did it originate?
Have you gotten the service manuals (either printed or on CD?) The one consistent feature of most of the people around here who turn their own wrenches is they have the service manuals in one form or another.
I sent you a PM.
