Lower Idler vs. Plastic Guide
11-23-2008, 08:10 PM
#1
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Lower Idler vs. Plastic Guide
My '81 is supposed to have a plastic guide where the timing belt meets the crank gear on the tensioner side (p/n 928.105.567.01). Recently i ordered a replacement plastic piece but received this (used) piece instead (see below):
which i take to be the lower idler on later model cars...
question is, would it be better to use this roller assembly instead of the plastic guide?. Since i have already changed out the rear timing belt cover and the new one will accomodate this roller assembly, would there be any advantage to using this instead of the plastic guide (I'm assuming it was changed because this was better?)
Has anyone done this?
Finally, does anyone sell just the pulley? Seems ashamed to have changed out all the other pulleys that touch the timing belt and put this used one in there...the only part numbers i find in catalogs seem to be the bracket and pulley together?
Thanks!
which i take to be the lower idler on later model cars...
question is, would it be better to use this roller assembly instead of the plastic guide?. Since i have already changed out the rear timing belt cover and the new one will accomodate this roller assembly, would there be any advantage to using this instead of the plastic guide (I'm assuming it was changed because this was better?)
Has anyone done this?
Finally, does anyone sell just the pulley? Seems ashamed to have changed out all the other pulleys that touch the timing belt and put this used one in there...the only part numbers i find in catalogs seem to be the bracket and pulley together?
Thanks!
11-23-2008, 08:23 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Yes, the crank idler is a factory update .... and I have installed it on a '80 to replace the plastic guide.
If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of the bearing, a new top quality double shielded #6201 bearing can be had for ~$6: use some sockets against the shell and outer race and a vise to press out the old one - and insert a new one into the shell. Better than new ....
If you are not satisfied with the smoothness of the bearing, a new top quality double shielded #6201 bearing can be had for ~$6: use some sockets against the shell and outer race and a vise to press out the old one - and insert a new one into the shell. Better than new ....
11-23-2008, 08:25 PM
#3
Team Owner
you can probably find the bearing at a bearing supply house then drive it out of the outer portion, measure the depth of the bearing first.
Usually this guide is just to keep the belt in touch with the crank drive gear if the belt should for some reason get loose. but the belt wont be spinning the roller unless it is loose
Usually this guide is just to keep the belt in touch with the crank drive gear if the belt should for some reason get loose. but the belt wont be spinning the roller unless it is loose
11-23-2008, 09:05 PM
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just for fun, though, Garth, where can i get a new one for $6? Oh a #6201 is a type of bearing...
11-23-2008, 09:41 PM
#5
Team Owner
6201 is the bearing number that you would ask ofr at the bearing supply store, after you would remove the outer roller then you would tap in the new bearing.
That said if the bearing you have is spinning smoothly , drip some oil onto a side of it and let it sit over night, wipe off in the am and check for the spin, this will add a bit of lube to the bearing, in case its a bit dry and it will make the grease inside the bearing soft again
That said if the bearing you have is spinning smoothly , drip some oil onto a side of it and let it sit over night, wipe off in the am and check for the spin, this will add a bit of lube to the bearing, in case its a bit dry and it will make the grease inside the bearing soft again