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Old 11-06-2008, 07:53 PM
  #61  
no doubt
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Originally Posted by waveflux
... I had a friend monitor the relay in the footwell while I tried to start . He said the Green LED was flickering on and off.
Does that mean (since the engine was cold) that your cat/engine temp sensor is bad, or that your temp monitoring relay is bad?
Old 11-06-2008, 07:56 PM
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waveflux
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Logic would dictate the latter. But....i'm guessing.
Old 11-06-2008, 07:58 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by waveflux
...the only problem, one of the plugs wouldn't come out.
The plot thickens. Was that plug in cylinder (Green) 2, 3, 5, or 8 by any chance?
Old 11-06-2008, 07:59 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by waveflux
Logic would dictate the latter. But....i'm guessing.
LOL! Logic and guesses are often unrelated.
Old 11-06-2008, 08:02 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by waveflux
Logic would dictate the latter. But....i'm guessing.
You can first *test* to know for certain...saving an expensive series of throwing parts at the problem.

Here's how:

Underneath your 1989 928 you should have two cat temp heat sensors. They should be identical.

Swap them. (if I'm wrong about the cat temp sensors, then you may have two engine temp sensors, instead...same deal...swap them)

Now attempt to start your car as before, with your buddy watching.

If the Green LED still flickers after the swap, then the problem is likely with the temp monitoring relay.

However, if the problem has switched sides such that the red LED now flickers...then replace that sensor. In that case the problem swapped sides with the swapped sensors. Since the problem followed a sensor, that sensor is probably the problem.
Old 11-06-2008, 08:09 PM
  #66  
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Gotcha, I'm all ears tonight for other suggestions. As I will start on this in the morning, would like a list of possible fixes in case I come up empty.
Old 11-06-2008, 08:12 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by no doubt
The plot thickens. Was that plug in cylinder (Green) 2, 3, 5, or 8 by any chance?
IIRC it was # 8
Old 11-06-2008, 08:14 PM
  #68  
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How about you unplug the clear relay and on the plug jumper terminals 2, 4 and 5 that bypasses the relay (leave it unplugged) . See if the car runs OK just be careful because now the cat can get too hot ! If it does run OK then it is either the relay or the temp sensors on the heads. If it runs badly you might have a plug ignition issue.....
Old 11-06-2008, 08:14 PM
  #69  
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I'd also suggest acquiring a $2 spray can of starter fluid. Spray into your cold intake a small amount (e.g. 2 seconds of spraying) to help determine if your current cold start problem is fuel or spark related (e.g. does the engine die after the starter fluid has been burned off).
Old 11-06-2008, 08:17 PM
  #70  
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Ok..these are very good tips. I should get right to the problem with these tests.
Old 11-06-2008, 08:18 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
How about you unplug the clear relay and on the plug jumper terminals 2, 4 and 5 that bypasses the relay (leave it unplugged) . See if the car runs OK just be careful because now the cat can get too hot ! If it does run OK then it is either the relay or the temp sensors on the heads. If it runs badly you might have a plug ignition issue.....
Hey Jim, could you elaborate on the temp sensors a little bit? Would the heads get hotter or colder if a spark plug wasn't firing...and would the cat on that side do the opposite?
Old 11-06-2008, 08:30 PM
  #72  
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the sensors are near the exhaust ports on the head in 89 #4 and #8 . The 1990 > they moved forward to # 3 and #7 . The move was because of too many false readings. A cylinder not firing would be cool and too large a difference in the temps triggers the relay. The relay is supposed to ONLY shut down 4 injectors BUT anything with the ability to shut off all 8 can and will do so if it fails just right ! I believe there is a time delay in the relay to give the engine a moment to warm up before it compares exhaust port head temps .... The sensors are seen from under the engine but way up high on the lower head right next to the exhaust manifold. All 8 cylinders have threaded holes (six are plugged) so the 89 car can be updated to move the sensors to #7 ,#3 which is recommended in a Porsche Tech bulletin.
Old 11-06-2008, 08:42 PM
  #73  
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Did you ever remove the coil wires and check for seating and corrosion, even though they might be new I have seen more than a few times a coil wire isnt connected fully into the coil or the dist cap




SEE POST #76

Last edited by Mrmerlin; 11-07-2008 at 01:44 AM.
Old 11-06-2008, 09:12 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
Did you ever remove the coil wires and check for seating and corrosion, even though they might be new I have seen more than a few times a coil wire isnt connected fully into the coil or the dist cap
No, but I'll put it on the list.
Old 11-06-2008, 10:21 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Jim bailey - 928 International
the sensors are near the exhaust ports on the head in 89 #4 and #8 . The 1990 > they moved forward to # 3 and #7 . The move was because of too many false readings. A cylinder not firing would be cool and too large a difference in the temps triggers the relay. The relay is supposed to ONLY shut down 4 injectors BUT anything with the ability to shut off all 8 can and will do so if it fails just right ! I believe there is a time delay in the relay to give the engine a moment to warm up before it compares exhaust port head temps .... The sensors are seen from under the engine but way up high on the lower head right next to the exhaust manifold. All 8 cylinders have threaded holes (six are plugged) so the 89 car can be updated to move the sensors to #7 ,#3 which is recommended in a Porsche Tech bulletin.
Thank you. So no temp sensors physically on the cats...


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