Outer CV Boot Replacement
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Palm Coast , FL
Outer CV Boot Replacement
I been surfing the "search" and WSM for info on replacing the Outer CV Boot on my '84.
I noticed the drivers side outer boot has a small tear, all other boots look to be in great shape. There are no tell signs of the CV having failed like clunks or clicks yet...........
I think I am most of the way there, but have a few questions.
1. On the '84, the outer CV is welded on right? So you can not Replace the Outer joint, only clean and repack it right?
I am assuming since this is the case in order to replace the outer boot, you need to remove the inner CV joint and boot in order to slide the boot over the axel to get to the outer CV joint. Seems like a shame since my inner is fine.
2. So in order to do this and replace the boot, does the whole drivers side axel need to to come out?
3. If so, how do you get at the allen bolts on the inner CV, I thought I read to rotate the axel to access each bolt, what does that mean, and how do you do that?
4.Once the inner bolts and outer nut is off, does the axel just slide right out? Seems to me you might need to push it aft or forward to drop it, but I could be wrong, does it just slide out?
Could use a few been there's-----done that if you will.
Thanks.
Shawn
I noticed the drivers side outer boot has a small tear, all other boots look to be in great shape. There are no tell signs of the CV having failed like clunks or clicks yet...........
I think I am most of the way there, but have a few questions.
1. On the '84, the outer CV is welded on right? So you can not Replace the Outer joint, only clean and repack it right?
I am assuming since this is the case in order to replace the outer boot, you need to remove the inner CV joint and boot in order to slide the boot over the axel to get to the outer CV joint. Seems like a shame since my inner is fine.
2. So in order to do this and replace the boot, does the whole drivers side axel need to to come out?
3. If so, how do you get at the allen bolts on the inner CV, I thought I read to rotate the axel to access each bolt, what does that mean, and how do you do that?
4.Once the inner bolts and outer nut is off, does the axel just slide right out? Seems to me you might need to push it aft or forward to drop it, but I could be wrong, does it just slide out?
Could use a few been there's-----done that if you will.
Thanks.
Shawn
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,162
Likes: 383
From: Johnson City, TN
https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-928/398649-rear-axle-boot-replacement-complete-here-s-the-pics.html
Shawn, I've got an inner that needs to be replaced due to tear. Above is one link that stands out from researching the topic....
Shawn, I've got an inner that needs to be replaced due to tear. Above is one link that stands out from researching the topic....
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 11
Shawn,
1. Correct, however, it is a good practice to replace both 'boots' at the same time under the principle of WYAIT. The boot set are quite cheap and are available from the main sponsers of this forum.
2. Correct.
3. Before lifting the car up you will have to undo the nut holding the rear axle. This will require a 3/4" hex drive fitted to the correct size socket and a long length of steel pipe as the installation torque is around 330 ft/lbs. Lift the rear of the car up, chock the front wheels and place the rear on jack stands safely. Put transmission in neutral and apply hand brake and undo the allen headed set bolt. Release hand brake and rotate wheel to access next bolt and so on. Note you don't have to remove the wheel.
4. When all bolt removed the drive shaft should drop away from the transaxle. If not just move drive shaft towards wheel via moving CVs. Now pull the drive shaft out. You may have to drift out the axle/drive shaft from the wheel/brake assembly,as it may be slightly seized or slightly stuck. As a good measure, I always centre pop the axle nut and the drive shaft alignment, so that I can check whether it was torque up correclty initially.
BTDT quite a few times, so I got the "T" shirt. When your are in there always change both boots, clean CVs, check drive ***** and running surfaces, lubricate with good moly grease and on reassembly ensure that you get the CV in the right alignment otherwise they will not rotate.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
1. Correct, however, it is a good practice to replace both 'boots' at the same time under the principle of WYAIT. The boot set are quite cheap and are available from the main sponsers of this forum.
2. Correct.
3. Before lifting the car up you will have to undo the nut holding the rear axle. This will require a 3/4" hex drive fitted to the correct size socket and a long length of steel pipe as the installation torque is around 330 ft/lbs. Lift the rear of the car up, chock the front wheels and place the rear on jack stands safely. Put transmission in neutral and apply hand brake and undo the allen headed set bolt. Release hand brake and rotate wheel to access next bolt and so on. Note you don't have to remove the wheel.
4. When all bolt removed the drive shaft should drop away from the transaxle. If not just move drive shaft towards wheel via moving CVs. Now pull the drive shaft out. You may have to drift out the axle/drive shaft from the wheel/brake assembly,as it may be slightly seized or slightly stuck. As a good measure, I always centre pop the axle nut and the drive shaft alignment, so that I can check whether it was torque up correclty initially.
BTDT quite a few times, so I got the "T" shirt. When your are in there always change both boots, clean CVs, check drive ***** and running surfaces, lubricate with good moly grease and on reassembly ensure that you get the CV in the right alignment otherwise they will not rotate.
Tails 1990 928S4 Auto
