SeanR

Damn Malcom, that does suck. Sorry to hear about it. Glad you were not in it.

The only thing keeping the cams from turning is the belt. It's teeth are gone at the crank gear. I've got some thoughts as to why, but I want to tear it down and look 1st. I don't want to move the cams just yet. I'll get the crank to 45 before any of that happens, but the front needs tearing in to 1st.

We made sure that the cam caps were right. 1-1,2-2,3-3 et al. We know there was oil flow since we spun up the oil pump before the entire thing was put together, it had great oil flow.

SeanR

I agree with Roger, let's have a head pulling party some weekend soon. Enough hands we can have it all checked out quickly and possibly replaced and running in a couple of days.

I'm keeping my weekends free for this sort of thing

Kevin Michael

man I wish I was a Texan. It's big stuff.

killav

Well said and I'm in. Sean, set it up.

Brad W

What was the theme to the Six Million Dollar Man?
I am in for the tear down party.


Doc we can fix it.

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net

When you figure out what parts are needed, I suggest you put out a Paypal account to received many small contributions. With free Texan labor and a bit of funding it should ease the pain.

But NO auto conversions on a GT

ROG100

Stan,
You macho 5 speed guys crack me up.

Doc,
We will fix your car - no worries.

ROG100

Lets plan this sooner than later - Saturday 10/25.

SeanR

10-25 works for me. Shall I start the tear down tomorrow?

Oh wait, I have a merc to work on. I'll start tear down in between jobs.

Jim M.

Wow, I just read this for the first time. So, lets re-cap. Belt was installed and engine turned over by hand several dozen times and cranked over multiple times. Therefore the oil pump, water pump and cams are not seized or frozen. Later found the belt sheared of teeth in the area of the crank gear which probably explains the lack of spark (???) maybe. When priming the engine with the oil pump you had good flow to the heads so the head gasket is correct. Varified the crank sensor is new and installed correctly.

My plan of action would be:
1. Pull the front of the engine down and re-check the water pump and oil pump.
2. Install a new belt and pre-tension it.
3. Pull the cam covers and verify cam timing is correct and all four cams are in the proper location.
4. Verify the flywheel was installed correctly so the crank sensor gets it's signal at the right time.
5. Do a compression check and/or leak down check to see if any valves are bent.
6. Verify continuity of the wiring harnesses for the injectors, crank sensor and the LH/EZK.
7. Do a detailed inspection of ignition caps and rotors and the plug wire routing.
8. Repair as necessary then let Doc drive the damn thing home!

I'll do all I can to be there 10/25.

killav

I'll be there. 10/25

Mrmerlin

the only other thing i could think of is that the oil pump may have seized and this will happen if the ring gear is put in backwards, the bevel on the outer edge faces the pump,( the outer squared edge faces the block) .This will also be verified by the 2 small dots being on the same side ( one on the drive gear and one on the driven gear) Something has to not be able to turn before the belt teeth get ripped off the belt. So you can rule out the waterpump but an oil pump or a stopped cam

docmirror

Well, a sincere thanks to all who've commiserated and offered help. Actually, the tear down is simple work, and doesn't take long at all. See bolt - remove bolt- pull part. No offence. It's the assembly that is tricky. I can have the heads off tomorrow if I want, but I'm not sold on the whole plan of pulling the heads. and redoing this **** again. I'm getting to a point where my hours in the garage are not much fun any more. Also, the added expense from this point is going to add more money to a project I have already spent too much on. I wasn't planning a discount rebuild, and so far, I've done every job right, with the proper tools and parts to get me a good engine. But I'm looking at 2 more head gaskets, unless I try to reuse mine which I'd never attempt unless someone had done it before. X Valves, then a few more gaskets, and fluids.

However, I do like the diagnosis and evaluation of trouble on other peoples cars. Always like to pitch in and figure out things that are goofy. Wish now that I could help Bill with his window bizzareness, but I think it's being handled well already.

So, I'll put a belt on, and run a comp test. Figure out if one or both heads have to come off. I'm pretty certain that both will need come off. If I take it apart, putting it back on by 10/25 will be possible. The heads have to go to the shop for valve swap, but that shouldn't take long. At that point I'll decide what to do. I still think I may just take it all apart and sell off the bits. Unfortunately, I just painted it as well, and for once, it'll look striking if it ever gets on the road.

I'm bummed.

Lizard928

Doc,
Was a new belt used? or was the belt that was on there when the 2/6 failed and siezed reused?

As well, why not just sell the car at a decent (adjusted) price and be done with it instead of parting it out?

SeanR

Don't have any pictures today, but we found out what caused the belt to do it's thing.

Drivers side exhaust cam decided it didn't want to stay attached to the crank gear. Broken at the nose.