No crank when trying to start, diagnosis help?
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From: Sunny Florida
No crank when trying to start, diagnosis help? -FIXED-
Ok,
Got into the shark to come home from the post office and it would'nt start. When trying to start, it would not crank (turn over) at all. No dimming of lights along with all dash lights working fine, even heard the starter relay click. Wiggled the gearshift from park and into neutral multiple times but still no go.
So, just in case it was still a bad relay, I switched it for the horn (which works fine) relay. Still no start. Took out my trusty jumper and jumped the 30 and 87, I believe, contacts and car started right up at which time, with a sigh of relief, I drove home.
So, from the 928 experts out there, where should I look first? Neutral safety switch?
thanks in advance.
'87 AT
Got into the shark to come home from the post office and it would'nt start. When trying to start, it would not crank (turn over) at all. No dimming of lights along with all dash lights working fine, even heard the starter relay click. Wiggled the gearshift from park and into neutral multiple times but still no go.
So, just in case it was still a bad relay, I switched it for the horn (which works fine) relay. Still no start. Took out my trusty jumper and jumped the 30 and 87, I believe, contacts and car started right up at which time, with a sigh of relief, I drove home.
So, from the 928 experts out there, where should I look first? Neutral safety switch?
thanks in advance.
'87 AT
Last edited by nuc; Mar 30, 2009 at 01:22 AM. Reason: added specifics of car
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Just thinking out loud here...could the horn relay be weak? Maybe it can handle the power from the horn and not the power from the starter? Could the relay possibly still be bad since jumping it worked?
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From: Southern Utah
how warn is your key? Do you have another less worn key to try? I had this problem on a 79. The key was warn and would not turn the lock far enough to turn the switch that oh so little bit extra to make the temporary connection to start the car. It seemed fine, felt fine. but just woudl not work. New key, problem solved. Just an easy place to start if you have another key
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From: Philly PA
ahh what relay did you replace??
On your car there is a starter relay and if in the past the car has had long periods of cranking its possible to overheat the relay and thus the contacts begin to seperate inside the realy
On your car there is a starter relay and if in the past the car has had long periods of cranking its possible to overheat the relay and thus the contacts begin to seperate inside the realy
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He swapped the horn relay standard 141 951 253 b for the starter relay....the starter relay gets it's O K signal from the neutral safety switch. Check the switch , check the plug connection in the spare tire well ...
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Otherwise the ignition switch starter contacts - take the relay out and probe into the relay socket for pin 86 with a dmm (use a male 1/4" blade connector e.g. your jumper) and see if you get 12v when you activate the starter position.
Alan
Alan
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Sunny Florida
Thanks for the help so far. This is what I've done.
Tried a different ignition key, but no difference, still does not crank
Socket 86 does have 12 volts when I turn the ignition to start.
What should I check next?
Thanks
Tried a different ignition key, but no difference, still does not crank
Socket 86 does have 12 volts when I turn the ignition to start.
What should I check next?
Thanks
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The transmission safety switch as Jim noted - in fact first try wiggling the selector and see if that makes any difference...
You can test this on the relay socket also - with trans in park test for connectivity between relay socket 85 and ground (ohmmeter) you should see connectivity in park and not in any other selection. if you never see connectivity investigate the connections on the drivers (LDH) side of forward part of the transmission and in the spare tire well above and forward (in car) of the battery behind a black plastic shield.
Alan
You can test this on the relay socket also - with trans in park test for connectivity between relay socket 85 and ground (ohmmeter) you should see connectivity in park and not in any other selection. if you never see connectivity investigate the connections on the drivers (LDH) side of forward part of the transmission and in the spare tire well above and forward (in car) of the battery behind a black plastic shield.
Alan
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From: Sunny Florida
Hi all,
I wanted to give an update as to what caused the no crank problem that I just got around to troubleshooting.
The problem ended up being the little black plastic tab that sticks out of the neutral safety switch and into the braket from the shifter, popped out of the bracket. After a little bit of wiggling the black plastic tab, I was able to get it back into the bracket and all is well again.
thanks for the trouble shooting help
I wanted to give an update as to what caused the no crank problem that I just got around to troubleshooting.
The problem ended up being the little black plastic tab that sticks out of the neutral safety switch and into the braket from the shifter, popped out of the bracket. After a little bit of wiggling the black plastic tab, I was able to get it back into the bracket and all is well again.
thanks for the trouble shooting help
