Symptoms of torque tube
10-09-2008, 08:13 PM
#16
Road Warrior
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
my TT made a clunk on acceleration from a dead stop, sometimes a clunk when stopping. no other noises. drove me crazy for 4 mos before I finally made some one pull it out while the trans was out. front bearings were dust.
earlier cars had a clip and groove that prevented tt creep. I forget which MY's though. 85/86 maybe. it's a cool thing that dr. p should have never stopped doing, as the earlier cars didn't ever seem to have TBF issues.
could just be cause the brakes were weaker and everyone crashed before the TBF happened, hahaha
earlier cars had a clip and groove that prevented tt creep. I forget which MY's though. 85/86 maybe. it's a cool thing that dr. p should have never stopped doing, as the earlier cars didn't ever seem to have TBF issues.
could just be cause the brakes were weaker and everyone crashed before the TBF happened, hahaha
10-10-2008, 07:49 AM
#17
Team Owner
Tony the rear coupler does indeed have cut out in the driveshaft,
HOWEVER this cutout isnt for the coupler to hold on to. or the bolt for that matter..
Hence the regard to remove the rear bolt and inspect it first, ( before retorqing to 66 ft/lbs with some blue loctite on the bolt)
. What happens is that the rear bolt is usually not torqued as tight as the front this then lets the weakest joint move, the rear or front bolt can and will eventually slide into the driveshaft and thus the shank of the bolt will begin to wear against the drive shaft and weaken the bolt. (The bolt is made to clamp not as a wedge)
If on inspection of the rear bolt, the shank has been damaged its best to replace the rear bolt and loosen the front bolt and move the drive shaft to center the cutout in the rear then install the rear bolt then the front
HOWEVER this cutout isnt for the coupler to hold on to. or the bolt for that matter..
Hence the regard to remove the rear bolt and inspect it first, ( before retorqing to 66 ft/lbs with some blue loctite on the bolt)
. What happens is that the rear bolt is usually not torqued as tight as the front this then lets the weakest joint move, the rear or front bolt can and will eventually slide into the driveshaft and thus the shank of the bolt will begin to wear against the drive shaft and weaken the bolt. (The bolt is made to clamp not as a wedge)
If on inspection of the rear bolt, the shank has been damaged its best to replace the rear bolt and loosen the front bolt and move the drive shaft to center the cutout in the rear then install the rear bolt then the front
10-10-2008, 08:03 AM
#18
Former Vendor
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The rear clamp/bolt, drive shaft cutout and the drive shaft/transmission coupler splines all conspire to keep the drive shaft from moving in the rear coupler. The cutout helps to locate the drive shaft in the coupler at a certain position and to stay put. If the rear pinch bolt is not tightened enough then the drive shaft can twist in the rear coupler and strip the splines. It can also, as Mr. Merlin says, cause wear between the drive shaft and rear pinch bolt since there should be no movement at this coupler. Two metal piece rubbing against each other is not a good thing. The rear drive shaft and splines should also be checked for damage since any wear on the driveshaft can cause the drive shaft to shear under load in the future, damaged splines can strip off.
Cheers,
Constantine
Cheers,
Constantine
