Cooling flap shroud R&R/Plastic repair question
#16
Team Owner
you may be better served to just leave the whole assembly off the car.
most would never know they were ever installed
It may have worked great when it was new that was 30 years ago,
now with old computers controlling things ,
its not uncommon for the flap system to auto close while your doing 80 on a hot day,
it will then take about 2 mins for the engine to overheat.
The common fix is to open the flaps and then pull the fuse.
The idea with these flaps was to let the engine heat up faster,
this is a good thing for cars operated in cold climates,
so that other system come online and function at the desired temps.
After a few years of trying this system out,
it was deleted from the assembly line
most would never know they were ever installed
It may have worked great when it was new that was 30 years ago,
now with old computers controlling things ,
its not uncommon for the flap system to auto close while your doing 80 on a hot day,
it will then take about 2 mins for the engine to overheat.
The common fix is to open the flaps and then pull the fuse.
The idea with these flaps was to let the engine heat up faster,
this is a good thing for cars operated in cold climates,
so that other system come online and function at the desired temps.
After a few years of trying this system out,
it was deleted from the assembly line
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2014
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I dimly recall reading that the flaps had an aerodynamic function, that they closed (partly?) at high speed to reduce lift. Anyway, I needed the duct part, and the duct/vane combination was only moderately more expensive. I'm sure to regret this decision as I try to wrestle it into position.
#18
Rennlist Member
Here is a question for all of you that have removed and or disabled your cooling flap assembly.
Any concerns about removing the relay and the fuse?
- Relay: "Cooling Air Flap System" - Relay Location: XVIII
- Fuse: "Cooling Air Flap Adjustment" - Fuse Location 23 (7.5amp). [EDIT] I see many of you have pulled the fuse without issue.
Does the rest of the cooling system use these? I like the idea of removing these items and not having current flowing through wires that can short, blow, ground, etc.
Any concerns about removing the relay and the fuse?
- Relay: "Cooling Air Flap System" - Relay Location: XVIII
- Fuse: "Cooling Air Flap Adjustment" - Fuse Location 23 (7.5amp). [EDIT] I see many of you have pulled the fuse without issue.
Does the rest of the cooling system use these? I like the idea of removing these items and not having current flowing through wires that can short, blow, ground, etc.
#19
I noticed that the air flap motor started running so I pulled the fuse my 87. But later I noticed the XVIII relay clicking, so I removed that also.
I did find later that I had a problem with the intake temp sensor, that may or may not have started the flap motor running.
I have replaced the intake temp sensor, and have left out the flap motor fuse and relay.
I've had no issues for a number of months now.
I did find later that I had a problem with the intake temp sensor, that may or may not have started the flap motor running.
I have replaced the intake temp sensor, and have left out the flap motor fuse and relay.
I've had no issues for a number of months now.
#20
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville and sometimes St. Aug Beach, FL
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Is there ANY negative for a Florida car to not have the Flaps OR shroud in place? I swear that old, ragged shroud is collapsing into and closing down the path of fresh air through the spoiler.
#21
I just pulled the relay with them fully open and that was it. if your stuff is falling apart I suppose I would consider removing the assembly and be done with it, although that may reduce airflow - IDK? Maybe you need to replace the shroud on your car? Post a photo and get feedback. But you absolutely don’t need flaps in Florida.
Last edited by Shark2626; 05-03-2021 at 05:43 PM.
#22
Archive Gatekeeper
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Thread Starter
You certainly don't need the flaps for any reason, but I'd be hesitant to remove the ducting that directs all cooling air to/through the AC condenser and the radiator behind. The puller fans will be more effective if all the pulled air cannot take the path of least/lesser resistance around the radiator. And I suspect there are times in stop/start traffic in FL with AC on that you need as much airflow as possible. The ducting inserts circumferentially around the opening in the front bumper cover with slots and clips, just make sure all the tabs A are inserted in slots and clips B and C.
#23
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Thanks, Rob. Just drove my 1990 for the first time in 1.5 years and the temps were running high. Flaps are ziptied open but the Shroud top and bottom were not inserted behind the spoiler/bumper and they effectively blew down from top and up from bottom (my guess looking at them) This caused them to seriously restrict the airflow (I think)
I just need the shroud tabs in the right place so that it doesn't BLOCK the opening. If that works without taking everything out, so be it.
I just need the shroud tabs in the right place so that it doesn't BLOCK the opening. If that works without taking everything out, so be it.
#24
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jacksonville and sometimes St. Aug Beach, FL
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The best 928 mechanic on the East Coast - Howard Wright of European Classics in Atlanta sent me this TSB.
I hope these parts do the trick....
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...651-152-01-OEM
I hope these parts do the trick....
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...651-152-01-OEM
#25
Rennlist Member
Bonjour,
I'm rebuilding my engine and while reading all the bulletins to make sure I'm not missing something, I stopped on this one because :
- my car was heating while on track during hot weather,
- I was unable to find anything on my car that goes from between the lower and the middle flap to clip shown in detail B...
- after pulling the engine out of the car, I realized that I do not have 92857552100 on my car...
I'm trying to understand how the car is supposed to be... should be very important to have the airflow forced on the lower part of the radiator...
I do not understand how 92857552100 could bring something as on detail A and B of the bulletin... what is supposed to be the air guide : Is there a plate there? There is 2 slots between the lower and the middle flap. Is the air guide a plate here as drafted in detail A?
Have a great night
Raphaël
I'm rebuilding my engine and while reading all the bulletins to make sure I'm not missing something, I stopped on this one because :
- my car was heating while on track during hot weather,
- I was unable to find anything on my car that goes from between the lower and the middle flap to clip shown in detail B...
- after pulling the engine out of the car, I realized that I do not have 92857552100 on my car...
I'm trying to understand how the car is supposed to be... should be very important to have the airflow forced on the lower part of the radiator...
I do not understand how 92857552100 could bring something as on detail A and B of the bulletin... what is supposed to be the air guide : Is there a plate there? There is 2 slots between the lower and the middle flap. Is the air guide a plate here as drafted in detail A?
Have a great night
Raphaël
#26
Wow. I learned something obscure today from reading this thread! Thanks.
Cheers
Cheers