Ball Joint Nut is loose, How to get the BJ Out?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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OK, well the nut is loose. But the BJ is not pooping out.
I have the nut all the way loose so it is putting a lot of pressure against the male post.
I tried a pickle fork, and it will seat all the way in there but will not pop it out .
If anybody can tell me what I am doing wrong...........please chime in. I want this BJ out!!!
I have the nut all the way loose so it is putting a lot of pressure against the male post.
I tried a pickle fork, and it will seat all the way in there but will not pop it out .
If anybody can tell me what I am doing wrong...........please chime in. I want this BJ out!!!
Last edited by sjfarbs; 03-06-2009 at 06:56 PM.
#2
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In the boatyard installing the mast and engine, we don't need a crane, we harness the mesquito's! Yeah!
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Head to a Auto Zone or your closest auto store that has a tool loan program.
Either that or take $12 out of your wallet and buy the smaller pickle fork. I have a set that has three different widths...
Good luck, and make sure your hammer is aligned... Mine was swinging an inch to the left - and that hurt
Either that or take $12 out of your wallet and buy the smaller pickle fork. I have a set that has three different widths...
Good luck, and make sure your hammer is aligned... Mine was swinging an inch to the left - and that hurt
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#3
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Hmmmm. The nut is supposed to push the ball joint completely out. If keep backing the nut out until you can take it completely off. There is a small recess in the spindle where the top of the nut will fit into, keep loosening the nut, its will push the ball joint out.
#4
Burning Brakes
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I put a nickel on top of the nut before loosening it all of the way. This allowed less room for the nut to fit into the recess and pushed the ball joint all of the way out.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
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Good call on the nickle, I will try that.............because it is backing up into that spindle and just stopping, but still no BJ out!!!
I will try the nickle trick.
Yes to the PF and also a the BJ tool, but that will not work due to the cap nut.
Keep em' coming, going to try the nickle now.
I will try the nickle trick.
Yes to the PF and also a the BJ tool, but that will not work due to the cap nut.
Keep em' coming, going to try the nickle now.
#7
Drifting
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You say it's just stopping. Get a bigger wrench on it so it doesn't stop. If that doesn't work heat the knuckle just under the nut and then whack it with with a 4 lb hammer. It should pop loose.
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
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mako 928..................you are the man!!!
after spending $15 on a separator, the another $10 on a pickle fork.................it ends up a nickle that pops the joint!!!!
That is hilarious!!!!
mako............pm me your address I am going to mail you the lucky nickle!!!!
after spending $15 on a separator, the another $10 on a pickle fork.................it ends up a nickle that pops the joint!!!!
That is hilarious!!!!
mako............pm me your address I am going to mail you the lucky nickle!!!!
Last edited by sjfarbs; 03-06-2009 at 06:56 PM.
#9
Burning Brakes
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sjfarbs
That is fantastic! After posting I went into the garage to find my "lucky nickel" and it looks just like yours. I am still laughing. Please keep it as I keep mine on the "souvenir wall" along W/ the other odd ball things that work.
That is fantastic! After posting I went into the garage to find my "lucky nickel" and it looks just like yours. I am still laughing. Please keep it as I keep mine on the "souvenir wall" along W/ the other odd ball things that work.
#14
Nordschleife Master
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Although the OP has the problem solved, I just thought I'd second the hammer approach for the newer cars where there's no handy opposing surface for a nickel.
When replacing tie rod ends and wheel bearings, I broke one ball joint puller, and destroyed the boot with a pickle fork on one of the tie rod joints. Then I cut it down, drilled through it all the way through to relieve pressure and it still wouldn't free; I broke a second ball-joint puller on it.
In the end, after some reading around car forums, I just gave the knuckle a few good whacks with a 4lb sledge, and it popped off.
The other tie rod and both main suspension balljoints came off in under a minute total, after a 3-day ordeal with the problem tie-rod joint.
When replacing tie rod ends and wheel bearings, I broke one ball joint puller, and destroyed the boot with a pickle fork on one of the tie rod joints. Then I cut it down, drilled through it all the way through to relieve pressure and it still wouldn't free; I broke a second ball-joint puller on it.
In the end, after some reading around car forums, I just gave the knuckle a few good whacks with a 4lb sledge, and it popped off.
The other tie rod and both main suspension balljoints came off in under a minute total, after a 3-day ordeal with the problem tie-rod joint.