Jadz928

I think the boot removal depends on it's age and condition. There was no way mine was coming off without cutting.

The bushings have gone byebye. I'm amazed at how much shift slop this creates.

Jadz928

That set screw will come out if you go at it easy with lots of heat and kroil, rinse and repeat. Took a few days but finally got out the bugger screw. Anyway, for BrendanC I've decided to post a couple pics showing what all the fuss was about. You will also find the tools req'd. 4mm hex socket and key.

Notice the new coupler w/bushing next to the old coupler. Wow, can you say sloppy shifter? If so, might want to check your's out.

I'm including the link to a Nichol's tip which covers the basic in and out of this job. Here

JKelly

I thought you could buy the bushings separately now? (928 specialists?). I made my own out of hard rubber stoppers from Lowes. They've lasted for 5+ years.

Ispeed

I don't think the boot is all that necessary, as the coupler is up over the torque tube. I have kept mine, but that is a safe, clean area up there.

Jadz928

Yes, you can just buy the bushes and press the pin out, install them, and press the pin back in. I was concerned I may have to destroy the coupler to get the the set screw out.

ROG100

Bushes are available seperatly # 911 424 223 03 $3.55 each.

shmark

FWIW my original coupler looked like your new one from the outside. In my case I think the pin was fracturing, causing sloppy shifting even though the bushings looked good. Eventually the pin went AWOL (see the pic earlier) and putting in a new coupler made a night-and-day difference. Heat, Kroil, a good 4mm socket with a long wrench, and careful steady pressure.

Jim bailey - 928 International

I had the pin fall out of one at the track...I was not happy . The replacement bushings are for a 911 and are not the same as the original ones used in the 928 coupler they lack the slight fore and aft slot. What was that slotting for ?? I Mc Givered the coupler and still ran the car Installed a new coupler shortly thereafter.

Jadz928

I read somewhere that it was for some slight fore/aft give for people who rest their hand on the shifter. Possibly takes a little load off of the tranny.

OBehave

FWIW, I had a little slopiness in my shifter so I thought maybe it was the coupler.I removed the coupler and the bushings felt tight except for the engineered slot in them,so I made a set of replacements out of Delrin without the slot.i put it all back together and the difference was night and day.The shifter was tight and definite.That mod added with the short shifter really gives the feel of a racer.

Courtshark

Just removed mine as the first step of getting my short shifter installed. My set screw was not as much of a beast as it was for others, though I did try it without applying heat first and it would not turn. Sprayed the hell out of it with PB blaster and let sit for a while (maybe an hour). Nada. Apply heat = turned almost instantly. My boot was no longer present.

My coupler bushings are pretty comical. Or rather, what is (not) left of them!

Tools list:
13mm socket & wrench; deep socket worked best because a short socket was too short but with an extension it was too long

5/32 allen wrench/bit (used a bit in a normal wrench)

PB blaster/WD-40/Rost-off (caution... most rust penatrants are flammable!)

Blow torch

Flashlight

PS: this was my first opportunity to use my new-to-me liftbars. They are sweeeeeet. I was lucky enough to get a set second-hand.

Jadz928

^^^ Was Corona involved? If not, your tool list is not complete.

Courtshark

10AM on a Thursday! Er, no Corona. But later, maybe.

Jadz928

*puts beer down*

uh... er.. yea, that's right. Too early.

Mike Frye

I will NEVER have to deal with that conical screw again.

I made a hex head bolt that works.

Hated this job!