hinchcliffe

I just claybarred it, Mothers cleaner wax using the orbital and then Black magic Wax by hand and it came out with light and dark spots on the hood. So I tried Rejex by hand no luck and then tried the orbiatl with polishing pad and still there. What do you use and how does it look?

Yes Guards/Indischrot Red without clear coat. I assume this means its soaking into the paint at different levels.

Marine Blue

Use a good Carnauba, two coats minimum to insure full coverage. If you want a reasonable carnauba try S100 available at Harley Dealers for $20.

If you are willing to spend some money on a really good Carnauba I would suggest Pinnacle Souveran (about $100) available online.

auzivision

I’ve used just about everything including Griot’s Garage, Meguiars, Rejex, and Zaino products.

Griot’s is great for buffing out scratches and their buffer is very cool.

Meguiars is a good all in one cleaner wax for quick jobs and works well with my orbital buffer.

Rejex is probably the longest lasting and not too tough to work only done by hand

Zaino is hands down my favorite, but it takes multiple thin layers to get it just right… but oh so nice!

RKD in OKC

Different waxes work better on different colors. The best my guards red 90 GT looked was with Zymol Dynasty or Vintage. It wasn't just glossy, it was attention grabbing from 1/2 mile away. Only down side is that these are show car carnauba and don't last long out in the sun and weather.

Marine Blue

I'm going to rescind my recommendation because the bottom line is that everyone has an opinion on products and like auzivision I've tried a ton of stuff including zaino, gliptone, meguiars, collinite, s100, pinnacle, zymol (expensive stuff), turtle wax, nufinish, eagle one, mothers and probably a few others I can't remember. Some products really do work better than others and some are truly easier to apply but all in all most products will leave a decent finish if used properly and often.

More than likely that your are not applying your products correctly.

Have you tried using two thin coats applied within a couple hours of each other and then wiping down with a quick detailer?

hinchcliffe

Good point. When I was trying to remove/fix the spotty sections I did it one right after the other. Everytime I put a different product on, the spots moved around but never went fully away. I'll have to try the quick detailer and then another coat. We sahll see. thanks for the info.

David L. Lutz

Pinnacle Souveran Carnauba

auzivision

I second what Marine Blue said… all products do a decent job and it’s more about application and frequency. Doing a detailed mist between applications is a great trick and the second coat is always much easier than the first.

If there is one thing I’ve done a lot of…I’d have to say it’s detailing cars. It’s been a passion of mine long before I could afford vehicles worth of the effort. I like Marine Blue have tried so many products; I can’t even remember them all. I have several shelves in my garage dedicated to product.

Following is my general assessment for anyone interested.

There is no doubt that freshly applied Carnauba probably offers about the best shine. The down side to these is they don’t last very long when exposed to the elements and it takes a lot of skill to do them right. Great for museums and show cars… if you want to win the concord de elegance’, this is the way to go.

Rejex is very practical because it’s not the toughest to apply and it last a very long time. Also very good for the wheels because it is so slick… brake dust just rinses right off. It requires a 24 hours to cure, but it’s fairly easy on and off… just make sure you start with a squeaky clean car; preferable freshly clayed. Great for the guy who enjoy a decent shine but would rather be working on something else or drinking a beer.

Average run of the mill auto store waxes like Meguiars, Mothers, Eagle one, Turtles, and so one are all about the same. Personally, I use Meguiars cleaner wax on my truck and wife’s car because it works well with standard orbital buffer. I can do a vehicle start to finish in less than 1 hour. This is what I usually recommend to anyone who isn’t trying to make a hobby out of rubbing cars.

Zaino products have a cult like following and I have to admit they are addicting. I believe it might have something to do with the smell. The down side is they are somewhat expensive and it can take 5 or more applications to truly get the full effect… that’s roughly a half hour a night for a week to get it right. It’s been over two years since I’ve had enough gumption to do the full process and I still get nice comments about my Zainod car… maybe next week.

The Griot’s Garage products are pretty cool because they have so many different levels of abrasives used to buff out light scratches. They’ve design a system with special pads, buffer, and compounds that’s just about fool proof; none of their stuff is aggressive enough to leave swirl marks. I think of them more as prep products. They also have a full line of waxes to apply on top... although I haven’t tried any except for the spay on speed wax.

In almost all cases… less is more when it comes to applications. Just like spray painting, a few light coats look better than one heavy coat. Also, allowing plenty of drying time helps. With thin layers and lots of drying time, removal should be almost effortless. If one find themselves laboring to get the wax off… chances are you are using too much.

I commonly make this same mistake. One trick I’ve tried to apply a uniform thin layer is to spray a little detail mist on your applicator pad to help ‘water down’ the wax. You might give that a try… works for me.

Ragnar Joensen

I am not going to recommend a label nor am I going to point a label not to be used.

My experience is that silicone based waxes give a really nice shine, at least initially. But the dry out the laquer and reauires You to maintain the polishing on a monthly basis, depending on Your garaging, usage, and most of all sun exposure.


Ragnar

docmirror

If you have Guards red, you have(had) a coat of clear. At least from the factory. At this point, I would speculate that you've gone through the clear in some areas, and are now working with two different coating materials. If you've clay barred that's almost a guarantee.

If you had red residue on any of your polishing compound rags, you've gone through. Nothing to do now but keep it clean, and have it re-clear coated.

Marine Blue

Actually I'm certain that all Guards Red and probably Indian Red 928's didn't have a clearcoat. Because of this it is more difficult to get a uniform finish from my experience. Carnaubas are probably easiest to apply to a non clearcoated finish since they go on easily but still not as easy as a clearcoat IMO.

docmirror

Check your paint codes Afshin. I just went though this two months ago. I know for certain there was clear on it. May not be much anymore, but it was there from Porsche.

IcemanG17

I think the problem lies with mixing sealants, glazes and carnuba..... If you use a "galze" style product (even if its not labeled that) it contains oils that hide swirls in the short term, but will cause some waxes, particularly sealants like rejex to haze under certain light...single stage paint makes this WORSE (ask me how I know)

The key to any good wax job is the prep or "polishing"....any high quality wax will look great when you are done, the differences are in how long it stays looking great...this is where long life sealants excell over carnuba...

With that said I use this on my Guards Red single stage 928

wash
claybar
polish (could be many steps depending on how bad) but typically with Optimum Polish
Seal (Wax) I like Opti-seal for its ease of use, but have used Rejex and Trade Secret (carnuba) before
typically I wait 1 day while the car is in the garage to let the 1st coat of wax cure..then apply a 2nd coat
Wait 1 more day and your done

I've also found the Optimum "gloss enhancer" quick detailer works GREAT...wow is the car super slick afterwards.....

I think you might have to start over to "strip" all of the old wax off, then polish up from there and apply a new wax (but only 1)...cure time is VERY important when layering multiple layers too, since if it does not cure properly that can cause hazing too....

Marine Blue

Doc are you sure about this? I've seen and worked on a couple of Guards Red older Porsches and both were single stage. Brian's car also has a single stage as noted above.

IcemanG17

Doc
I believe sometime around MY 90-91 they switched to water based two stage paint on all their colors...... However just about any older 928 that has been repainted will have clear on it too.....

When properly cared for the single stage paint is EXTREMELY strong...that stuff is as hard as a rock.....it should last just about forever....