Can an AFM be adjusted or repaired?
#1
Can an AFM be adjusted or repaired?
As part of the resurrection of my '84 I was performing some tests on the fuel injection system using the 928 Air Flow Control Service Information Manual. Pg 18 has some test values for Air Flow Sensor.
Terminals --- Test Values ---- My Readings
Pin 6 Pin 9 --- 200-400 ohms ---- 564
Pin 6 Pin 8 --- 130-260 ohms ---- 364
Pin 8 Pin 9 --- 70- 140 ohms ---- 202
Pin 6 Pin 7 --- 40- 300 ohms ---- 101
Pin 7 Pin 8 --- 100-500 ohms ---- 302
Is there a schematic available for this unit? Can those high reading be adjusted down or is it just signs of an aging unit?
Terminals --- Test Values ---- My Readings
Pin 6 Pin 9 --- 200-400 ohms ---- 564
Pin 6 Pin 8 --- 130-260 ohms ---- 364
Pin 8 Pin 9 --- 70- 140 ohms ---- 202
Pin 6 Pin 7 --- 40- 300 ohms ---- 101
Pin 7 Pin 8 --- 100-500 ohms ---- 302
Is there a schematic available for this unit? Can those high reading be adjusted down or is it just signs of an aging unit?
Last edited by Angel84-928; 09-16-2008 at 09:17 PM.
#4
Team Owner
does this chart or manual you have cover the 84 Euro, i am having problems and would like to find out more info?? My car runs rough and feels like its chugging when I drive it
Forgot to add my car has the 2.2 LH system so it has a Mass airflow sensor
Forgot to add my car has the 2.2 LH system so it has a Mass airflow sensor
#5
Man of many SIGs
Rennlist Member
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Angel, the "door" swings against a copper track. You can clean up that track with an eraser for better reading. But to answer your question, the AFM can be adjusted. The proceedure is in the WSM.
#6
PM Mark (Tampa928) he might be able to help you out.
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#8
Nope, not off work.
After you told me that the AFM adjustment procedures were in the WSM I found a similar test there but its showed different test values for AFMs built after Date Code 044. Mine has date code 250 which puts my reading within.
So I've ruled out:
1. Relay (checked good)
2. the wiring to the Injectors (Noid & resistance checks all the way back to the CE panel)
4. inductance readings for each injector is good.
3. grounds (Checked)
3. the AFM (readings are within new test values)
3. Fuel pump (plenty of pressure)
4. Spark (inductance tester)
All that is left is checking each injector's actual flow. I can get the car to start but to keep it running I have to push the accelerator down above 3k rpm. I'll be building my own Inj checker this week to actually see them spray.
If that doesn't work, I'll be out of ideas.
After you told me that the AFM adjustment procedures were in the WSM I found a similar test there but its showed different test values for AFMs built after Date Code 044. Mine has date code 250 which puts my reading within.
So I've ruled out:
1. Relay (checked good)
2. the wiring to the Injectors (Noid & resistance checks all the way back to the CE panel)
4. inductance readings for each injector is good.
3. grounds (Checked)
3. the AFM (readings are within new test values)
3. Fuel pump (plenty of pressure)
4. Spark (inductance tester)
All that is left is checking each injector's actual flow. I can get the car to start but to keep it running I have to push the accelerator down above 3k rpm. I'll be building my own Inj checker this week to actually see them spray.
If that doesn't work, I'll be out of ideas.
#9
Race Car
I have an idea on your inj tester I may build one myself.
I have an old fuel pump from my Buick GN and plan on using it.
Take the pump with a long hose into a "Fuel, Toluene, alcohol etc. gas source. Place a fuel line over the inj and rig up a 12v source with a switch "away from the fuel source". Take a clear jar with a lid cut out for the Inj and fire it up. I suppose you could time and measure the fuel delivery amount to see if they are all flowing the same. At a minimum you will see the spray pattern or lack of there.
Good luck
I have an old fuel pump from my Buick GN and plan on using it.
Take the pump with a long hose into a "Fuel, Toluene, alcohol etc. gas source. Place a fuel line over the inj and rig up a 12v source with a switch "away from the fuel source". Take a clear jar with a lid cut out for the Inj and fire it up. I suppose you could time and measure the fuel delivery amount to see if they are all flowing the same. At a minimum you will see the spray pattern or lack of there.
Good luck
#13
Administrator - "Tyson"
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You said "plenty of pressure" what is the pressure? Did you check both regulators?
There is always the chance of a major vacuum leak
Green wire? Ignition amplifier?
I'll think of a few more things as the day goes on.
#14
I've run it for about 5 full min. Maybe not enough.
You said "plenty of pressure" what is the pressure? Did you check both regulators?
There is always the chance of a major vacuum leak
Green wire?
Ignition amplifier?
I'll think of a few more things as the day goes on.
Thank guys! I really appreciate the inputs. Daytona Here I come!! (with a little help from my friends)
#15
Update on my contraption. Put it together and it works!! I tested an extra injector I had laying around and I got no flow. I took the driver's side rail off and tested #5 and it sprays!!
I really don't like the pattern but it puts fuel out. Good enough for right now. I'm running to the store for some Kerosene to test the other three. Tomorrow I'll work on the Passenger side injectors.
At first glance my injector tester looks full on ghetto but it works. I feel like a mini-McGyver almost.
I really don't like the pattern but it puts fuel out. Good enough for right now. I'm running to the store for some Kerosene to test the other three. Tomorrow I'll work on the Passenger side injectors.
At first glance my injector tester looks full on ghetto but it works. I feel like a mini-McGyver almost.