Anyone have a spare working fuel dizzy.
08-26-2008, 08:35 AM
#1
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Anyone have a spare working fuel dizzy.
I'm on my 3rd rebuild, 1st rebuild car runs dizzy leaks, 2nd rebuild dizzy doesn't leak car doesn't run, 3rd rebuild back to same result as the first. I tried dry assembly, I tried Dennis' idea of axle grease, and then I tried shellac. I think this dizzy is doomed. I will likely buy one from 928intl but I thought I'd check to see if anyone had one they didn't need, just put a roof on the house so my funds are low, not looking for a freeby just cheeper, no offense Jim.
Last edited by guidon112; 08-26-2008 at 11:08 AM.
08-26-2008, 10:28 AM
#2
Matthew,
Sorry the rebuild didn't work out. Just keep in mind you are in good company. Not long ago there was one on ebay. There is also an ebayer parting a 79 that you may want to check out.
Dennis
Sorry the rebuild didn't work out. Just keep in mind you are in good company. Not long ago there was one on ebay. There is also an ebayer parting a 79 that you may want to check out.
Dennis
08-26-2008, 11:05 AM
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Dennis
I have messaged a guy on ebay, he says he has one but wont be listing it for a few weeks, dont wanna wait that long, I also know of the 79 you may be thinking of, I'm leary of sellers with low feedback, especially when some of it is bad.
Heinrich
If you find it let me know, although if it has sat for a long time it may be no better than what I have.
I may just need to bite the bullet and fork over the $$ on this one.
I have messaged a guy on ebay, he says he has one but wont be listing it for a few weeks, dont wanna wait that long, I also know of the 79 you may be thinking of, I'm leary of sellers with low feedback, especially when some of it is bad.
Heinrich
If you find it let me know, although if it has sat for a long time it may be no better than what I have.
I may just need to bite the bullet and fork over the $$ on this one.
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08-26-2008, 06:59 PM
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Yea, I felt the same way about forkin over that kind of $$ for one from one of the big three- but really compared to a 4bl carb they arn't that much diffrenent in price. Plus the agrevation of not having a great car just sitting and not being driven was well worth it. I dropped mine on, gave it a little adjustment and away I went!
08-26-2008, 08:27 PM
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I'm still going to use my wait time to work on a few other issues, I started working on the trim today, I need to gut and clean the interior, I mean I have other things to work in the mean time, but the sound of that engine, its addictive. I am off work this week but no play money till Friday.
08-26-2008, 10:14 PM
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I contacted the guy with the 79 on fleabay last month. He wanted $150 for the entire CIS set up...per my request of what it consists of...no guarantees anything works.
I have a FD here that I haven't checked out yet. I would rebuild it no matter what. They are easy to rebuild if you have done it before. Seems there is no one place where ALL of the proper rebuild procedure is, thats why so many folks give up on rebuilding them and just go out and buy one.. I had to figure it out for myself. My biggest issue was it leaking, but I used the aircraft sealant as suggested and it worked great. My 82 Euro runs like a bat out of hell.
I can have a look at the one I have and rebuild it for you, but I won't give it away. It would be less than 928 Int'l or what you could find on Fleabay.
I have a FD here that I haven't checked out yet. I would rebuild it no matter what. They are easy to rebuild if you have done it before. Seems there is no one place where ALL of the proper rebuild procedure is, thats why so many folks give up on rebuilding them and just go out and buy one.. I had to figure it out for myself. My biggest issue was it leaking, but I used the aircraft sealant as suggested and it worked great. My 82 Euro runs like a bat out of hell.
I can have a look at the one I have and rebuild it for you, but I won't give it away. It would be less than 928 Int'l or what you could find on Fleabay.
08-27-2008, 01:20 AM
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Just a detail, but...
The fuel metering unit looks a lot like a distributor, but in fact there's nothing that might be construed as distribution in its function. It kinda looks like an ignition distributor but in fact the fuel flow is continuous to all nozzles. It meters the flow based on measured airflow, biased richer by control pressure variations that change with engine temp (via the warm-up regulator), manifold pressure, and sometimes from oxy sensor feedback via a pulse-width-modulated bleed valve.
Getting a metereing unit to work correctly is a delicate exercise that includes replacing the o-rings with the exactly correct sized pieces so the friction is low but the seal is great. Then the piston in the middle needs to be really clean with no varnish and no scratches. Then the steel 'gasket needs to seal perfectly-- ideally with no sealer included. If you do use shellac (indian head gasket shellac) as a sealer, you must keep it away from the control ports, o-rings, the piston, etc. I can also attest to the need for the pressure gauges. Without them, you will NEVER get the car to run perfectly. Trust Me.
The rebuilt metering unit that Jim sells is a bargain, especially compared with multiple R&R's, leaks, guesses on shims and pressure settings, and the cost of a good gauge set for DIY setup. Spend your time and money well, my brother. !!
The fuel metering unit looks a lot like a distributor, but in fact there's nothing that might be construed as distribution in its function. It kinda looks like an ignition distributor but in fact the fuel flow is continuous to all nozzles. It meters the flow based on measured airflow, biased richer by control pressure variations that change with engine temp (via the warm-up regulator), manifold pressure, and sometimes from oxy sensor feedback via a pulse-width-modulated bleed valve.
Getting a metereing unit to work correctly is a delicate exercise that includes replacing the o-rings with the exactly correct sized pieces so the friction is low but the seal is great. Then the piston in the middle needs to be really clean with no varnish and no scratches. Then the steel 'gasket needs to seal perfectly-- ideally with no sealer included. If you do use shellac (indian head gasket shellac) as a sealer, you must keep it away from the control ports, o-rings, the piston, etc. I can also attest to the need for the pressure gauges. Without them, you will NEVER get the car to run perfectly. Trust Me.
The rebuilt metering unit that Jim sells is a bargain, especially compared with multiple R&R's, leaks, guesses on shims and pressure settings, and the cost of a good gauge set for DIY setup. Spend your time and money well, my brother. !!
08-27-2008, 09:00 AM
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The fuel metering unit looks a lot like a distributor, but in fact there's nothing that might be construed as distribution in its function
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/distribute
Semantics
Sorry couldnt resist.
Great paragraph on the precision function of it though. I can attest, it is very sensitive to pressure loss.
Thanks Dr. Bob
08-27-2008, 09:26 AM
#14
Just a detail, but...
Getting a metereing unit to work correctly is a delicate exercise that includes replacing the o-rings with the exactly correct sized pieces so the friction is low but the seal is great. Then the piston in the middle needs to be really clean with no varnish and no scratches. Then the steel 'gasket needs to seal perfectly-- ideally with no sealer included. If you do use shellac (indian head gasket shellac) as a sealer, you must keep it away from the control ports, o-rings, the piston, etc. I can also attest to the need for the pressure gauges. Without them, you will NEVER get the car to run perfectly. Trust Me.
The rebuilt metering unit that Jim sells is a bargain, especially compared with multiple R&R's, leaks, guesses on shims and pressure settings, and the cost of a good gauge set for DIY setup. Spend your time and money well, my brother. !!
Getting a metereing unit to work correctly is a delicate exercise that includes replacing the o-rings with the exactly correct sized pieces so the friction is low but the seal is great. Then the piston in the middle needs to be really clean with no varnish and no scratches. Then the steel 'gasket needs to seal perfectly-- ideally with no sealer included. If you do use shellac (indian head gasket shellac) as a sealer, you must keep it away from the control ports, o-rings, the piston, etc. I can also attest to the need for the pressure gauges. Without them, you will NEVER get the car to run perfectly. Trust Me.
The rebuilt metering unit that Jim sells is a bargain, especially compared with multiple R&R's, leaks, guesses on shims and pressure settings, and the cost of a good gauge set for DIY setup. Spend your time and money well, my brother. !!
BTW my rebuild of the distributor on my 78 euro came out OK with no leaks but I wouldn't want to go through the hassle again. Cleaning decoupler holes, fighting with springs and hats, etc is just too time consuming.
Dennis
08-27-2008, 01:37 PM
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Not exactly true it distributes the fuel from a single supply to the 8 injectors.
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/distribute
Semantics
Sorry couldnt resist.
Great paragraph on the precision function of it though. I can attest, it is very sensitive to pressure loss.
Thanks Dr. Bob
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/distribute
Semantics
Sorry couldnt resist.
Great paragraph on the precision function of it though. I can attest, it is very sensitive to pressure loss.
Thanks Dr. Bob
I think the 'continuous' in 'continuous injection system' accurately describes the system. The place where the injection lines attach is on top of metering unit.