I have an 86.5 AT.

I'm just back from being overseas and put the battery back in (I had it out and on a trickle charger while I was gone). It started on the first crank (just like it always does) and it ran well, but there are a few problems which appear to be electric. Not sure if these are all separate issues, or if it is likely that there is a common cause. I'm open to any thoughts from the gurus:

(1) Windows and sunroof do not open. Fuses are good, and I pulled them and cleaned the contacts. Relay did not want to pop out easily, so I didn't force it -- yet. I'm guessing this is the most likely problem. Is there a way to test the relay rather than shelling out $38 for something that might not be the solution?

(2) AC is not cooling air. Checked that fuse as well. AC blew cold when the car was last running (fall 07), but now there is no discernible change in air temp when I depress the switch.

(3) Rear hatch release is not working from either side. I'm not really worried about this, but mention it in case this fact colors any other opinions you might have.

Everything else electrical (fans, lights, turn signals, radio, etc...) seems to be working fine.

Thanks for any thoughts that you might have.

TJ

 

1 - take the relay out and bridge contacts 87 & 30 on the relay socket (relay should show you which) - if the windows now work the relay isn't getting activated - probably means its bad.

2 - Probably low refrigerant - most likely - check the low refrigerant pressure switch on the dryer in front of the radiator. If its open circuit you are low.

3 - Do your interior lights work? if no fix that - fuse and switching must both work for the hatch release to work

Alan

 

Sorry for the neophyte follow up, but I have intentionally stayed well away from the electrical stuff on my car in past, never doing anything more exciting than replacing a relay.

To bridge the contacts, I can just use a decent gauge copper wire, put it in place with the ignition turned off, then turn the ignition until it is powered?

Thanks for the pointers, will be armed with a little knowledge when I get home tonight.

 

Actually I'd make up a jumper lead with 2 x male 1/4" quick disconnect connectors (1/2 insulated are best) and a 12AWG insulated wire - you can use this in future for other similar needs... and it won't damage the socket. Install the (unpowered) 87 end first for safety...

Alan

 

Fantastic advice as always from the folks on here. The bridge worked perfectly and confirmed the problem was with the relay. Now replaced and all is good again. A quick charge of refrigerant and the AC is back to full cold. Thanks very much.

 

A clever trick is to use a lead connected to a 15 Amp fuse connected to another lead...and use that whole setup as your jumper "wire."

That way, if you make a mistake plugging your jumper into a socket, you just blow the fuse instead of melting something important.

 

Yes thats not a bad idea I have made up such leads - including some with a switch too. The best kind of fuseholder is probably like this http://www.amazon.com/Ato-Atc-In-Lin.../dp/B00166RGD6 It uses the same kind of fuses as the car (for the later '85-95 anyway) and is fully insulated. Still use the 1/4" half insulated male quick disconnect terminals on the ends.

Alan