doktor-t

If you got an 32v engine these mods apply.

/T

doktor-t

This is the setup I intend to use. I use an similar setup in my Renault to able it to start during freezing temperatures because it runs on Ethanol when gas-prices are high.

When the toggleswitch is closed the voltage goes throu the switch because it´s the "easiest" way for the currant. When switched off, voltage is forced to go throu the resistor. BTW, the red thing is the Temp2 sensor.



This works as a sharm in the Renault so I belive it would work in the 928 too.

Opinions?

/Tobias

PorKen

That will work. You could also have a 5K option for +3°.

I am going to use a 5-pos DIP switch for my EZ-F'r V2, to switch all the possible combinations (I know of), and it will plug in at the EZ-F connector, using factory pins.

Tom. M

I get the distinct impression that Ken will one day merge a fusion power source to the 928 to allow him to travel time when he hits 80mph ..

whitefox

Will this temp II mod work on all 32v's? So I just solder in a 20k resistor on the temp II sensor wire with the red stripe and disconnect terminal 17 at the EZF plug and there will be 5 degrees advance?

PorKen

It works only with LH2.2 (84-86 ROW 16V, 85-86 32V). LH2.3, 87-up, have knock sensors so they run higher advance already (if all the sensors are working).

stolarzj

Shouldn't that be a 4.7k to 5k resistor and not a 20k? I thought that was what I read in EZ-F 1. I already have EZ-F 2 done, and am planning on doing the others.

PorKen

See (tweaking EZ-F part third). 5K makes for +3°, 20K is +5°. (There are no other steps.)

stolarzj

Ahh ok. I haven't changed out to colder plugs yet, so I'll take the conservative route. I run 93 octane though, but the outside temps have been in the upper 90's lately though.

zekgb

Do you have to go back to stock to use an ebay chip?

whitefox

I replaced my knock sensors as part of an intake R&R. Is there any similar mod I could do to advance my timing?

PorKen

Stock EZ-F chip. The performance chips are already advanced about 3° in the cruise map, and when you add 5°, it starts a knockin' (I tried). My EZ-F'r V2 mod (WOT disable, +5° over the stock cruise map) made 6hp/tq more than a clone chip on the last dyno.

The hall sensor/connector (on the right bank) can also be a trouble spot.

Even with the knock sensors, the advance is still a little conservative. IIRC, SharkTuning the EZ-K can make upwards of 10 rwhp.

I think there could be a EZ-K'r tweak, with even more options (eg. -2°, -4°, +2°, +3°, +4°, +5°), but I haven't researched it, yet.

Between 82°F and 107°, the timing is retarded, I would guess to warm up the engine faster.

928ntslow

Ken came by a couple of days ago with his new fangled rear exhaust set up. It sounds "zweet". Really, it has the zzzzz sound which is very hi-po Euro sounding. Kind of like a Tubi Italian sounding exhaust. Sounds like a 12 banger at idle with a few blips at the throttle. Not overly loud until you get on it....which is still easy to live with.

Seems like his fixation with the "H" thing is working quite well for subduing the open exhaust of "brapiness". If any of you guys makes one, you should be quite happy with it.

PorKen

Here's a test version of what I'm talking about. V2 will likely have 3 sharp pointed skirts extending down into the X-pipe to hold it in place better, and could be tack welded, too.

This is fringy, max HP stuff, but in theory, the couple mm's lip before and after the gasket may cause turbulence, which could shrink the effective tube diameter for some distance (and cool the gas too).

The bit sticking up past the gasket fits into a recessed area in the SS manifold flange. The ID is the same as the 'collector' of the manifold.

doktor-t

This might be an improvment, I wasn´t that precise when making my flanges for my x-pipe. I made the flanges the same size the 2,5" tubing had as its innerdiameter. Maybe I was a bit lazy


BTW, Ken, could you post a link to the EZ-F mod one?


/Tobias