POP!! Now I got dents in my hood....
#17
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I did find all kinds of nasty, brittle vacuum lines, they broke just from me touching them. Most of them are on the drivers side by the brake MC. I also found a good size pool of gas in the unit that the maf hooks to in the valley. Do i need to address the injectors or just o-rings while I have it out?
Sounds like it's time to do an intake refresh. With '85/'86, you can't really change all the vacuum lines with the intake on. Get (2) '85 paper gaskets, and use the money you save to buy new injectors.
#18
Drifting
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Thanks Ken. Its gas for sure, there is the normal amount of oil here and there too. The paper gaskets are just as good your saying? Cool for a little over six bucks! So I need 2 gaskets, set of injector o rings and what else for a refresh? I replaced the regulator a couple of years ago but the dampeners look original.
#19
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I have a hood here in my office. I was perfect until UPS put it on a conveyor and now 3-4" of one corner (d-side back) is dented. easy fix for a body shop.
UPS didn't resolve it (no resp. for used parts.)
If anyone is interested let me know. $150 would be cool. Ship fedex this time.
pjager@jageng.com
UPS didn't resolve it (no resp. for used parts.)
If anyone is interested let me know. $150 would be cool. Ship fedex this time.
pjager@jageng.com
#20
Drifting
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I have a hood here in my office. I was perfect until UPS put it on a conveyor and now 3-4" of one corner (d-side back) is dented. easy fix for a body shop.
UPS didn't resolve it (no resp. for used parts.)
If anyone is interested let me know. $150 would be cool. Ship fedex this time.
pjager@jageng.com
UPS didn't resolve it (no resp. for used parts.)
If anyone is interested let me know. $150 would be cool. Ship fedex this time.
pjager@jageng.com
#21
Drifting
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I put it all back together tonight with some replacement vacuum lines and it fired right up and drove great! Whew! at least hte engines ok. I will look into body work and top end refresh next. I noticed that the rubber mounts are busted that secures the housing/throttlebody after the MAF how important is this to replace?
#23
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I put it all back together tonight with some replacement vacuum lines and it fired right up and drove great! Whew! at least hte engines ok. I will look into body work and top end refresh next. I noticed that the rubber mounts are busted that secures the housing/throttlebody after the MAF how important is this to replace?
The 'rebuild kit' sold for the injectors of these cars has a different pintle cap and spacer, but the O-rings are right. No one was able to tell me why the pintle caps and spacers were different.
I ended up going to blueovalracing.com and getting a new set of Ford 24# injectors for $200! They go on sale often and they're a direct replacement. Nothing to change out.
The rubber standoffs for the air guide (under the throttle body) are what keep the whole thing from rattling loose. Remember that the MAF is only stuck in there with an O-ring and if that's old, it's probably leaking too. The air box is bolted down on top, but that's on old rubber standoffs too, so it can move a little. If you're sucking air from anywhere after the MAF it's "Unmetered" and will cause problems. There are three of those standoffs and the one on the passenger side (US) is different so make sure you get the right stuff. That one has a longer stud on top to accept the bracket for the ISV.
I'd go for the top end refresh (including fuel lines) sooner rather than later.
I have a write-up if you're interested. It's not done yet so I haven't posted it here, but it's got lots of things that might help.
#25
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#27
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I put it all back together tonight with some replacement vacuum lines and it fired right up and drove great! Whew! at least hte engines ok. I will look into body work and top end refresh next. I noticed that the rubber mounts are busted that secures the housing/throttlebody after the MAF how important is this to replace?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I did this a few years ago when my son activated my Nitrous system by mistake....it filled the plenum with liquid Nitrous and I went to move the car a few minutes later and just turned the key and KABOOM......it blew the air filter casing to pieces and both of the 90 degree ends were shattered...I found some pieces over 30 yards away...it also blew the MAF screen into a little ball a bit like a golfball lol..luckily for me the bonnet was up so no damage to that...
Like you I replaced all the damaged parts and it started and ran fine
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Although the MAF was never quite the same and had to get a new one from John Speake, after which it was perfect again...
All the best Brett
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#29
Craic Head
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So although this is an old thread, it's probably worth noting that if the ignition timing was a contributing factor in this, it's important to make sure your TPS is resetting to idle all the time and that it's reading back to the LH. If not, your timing could be advanced to 20+ deg. every time you start it.
If this is true, the potential impact is more than just a high idle.
If this is true, the potential impact is more than just a high idle.