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My passenger side window lift motor died and I need to replace it with a new one. I just got a used replacement motor from 928 International (thanks Jim!) and will install it either later tonight or tomorrow. I was hoping you all could give me some tips on replacing the motor.
I looked in the WSM, PET and searched RL and didn't find any clear direction on how to remove just the motor. I have the door stripped down to the the metal frame, and I wasn't sure whether I have to unbolt the regulator to get the motor out, or if I can just unbolt the motor from the regulator. It was kinda hard to see when I was disassembling cause I was in the dark wearing a headlamp, so I may have missed something obvious.
A few questions I have:
1) the motor died with the window down. Do I have to raise the window to swap the motors?
2) Do I have to take the window out to do this job?
3) Are there any other bolts that I need to access that are not readily visible? (see diagram below)
Thanks for any help with this. I need to get it done asap and I don't want to disassemble any more than I have to since this is my daily driver and I can't afford any downtime, especially since I park in the city and need to be able to close my window!
Yep what they said - its really quick to do... the second time!
You may also find you can ressurect the old motor so give that a try once its out - clean & lube it up - see how worn the brushes are - replacements are available - you can maybe create a backup ready to go. One window motor on my GTS stopped working about 5 years ago - cleaned/lubed and its been good since...
You unbolt the regulator, but you should be able to leave one bolt in, and everything should swing forward to the access hole where you can take out the motor. THe window will slide down when you do this but it's Ok. Just hold it so it doesn't slam down.
It's pretty easy you'll see. Just study it and take your time.
About an hour including removing and replacing door panel.
Half-time Celtics/Lakers game, checking in on the thread. Don't think I'll get to it tonight, I'm heading over to the bars near the Garden.
I'll get er done tomorrow morning. Thanks for the advice guys, doesn't sound like too bad a job.
r/e doing the inner door handles wiit, I didn't have the foresight to order them in advance, but I'll be back in there soon replacing the speakers and I'll get them then.
Thanks again
Go Celtics!
Actually guys - you really can just remove the motor - no need to do anything with the regulator... except support the window... the motor just unbolts (2 x allen head bolts IIRC).
Actually guys - you really can just remove the motor - no need to do anything with the regulator... except support the window... the motor just unbolts (2 x allen head bolts IIRC).
Except that the front bearing is on pivot ball and is damn near impossible to fully seat. I wrerstled with this for about an hour before pulling the entire lift mechanism. It is not really a difficult job to remove the entire lift. If you try to replace just the motor use a long philips to line up the front ball pivot in the lift mechanism prior to sliding the motor in.
Mark - I've done it a few times now - but always on S4+. It has never taken more than mere seconds to reinstall the motor and I don't recall any tricky pivot bearing... so Jim - is there a difference in the motor attach/align on the earlier cars? I think the motor was slightly changed for the thermal protection delete - is it much more than that....
Follow up: I got the window motor replaced a couple of days ago, it was was easy and didn't take long at all. The replacement motor works great.
Unbolted the regulator to get it all loose, lifted the window up & supported it out of the way, then moved the motor/actuator assembly over in front of the access hole where get at the bolts that hold the motor to the actuator, unbolted it and removed, replaced with new motor, greased the gears and put it all back together.
WIWIT replaced the door speaker with a new 4" Infinity that I attached directly to the door by drilling pilot holes and using machine screws. Also used quick-dry epoxy to fix the door handle plastic which was cracked and completely broken in some places, so now the armrest/handle is much more sturdy. Total time to replace motor, speaker and glue handle ~ 1 hour. REal glad to have it done
Any trick to disconnecting the wires....i dont want to force anything in here as i surely dont want to revisit this whole process later with a sketchy connection. The connector doesnt want to move...
I was coincidentally just in there replacing wiring harnesses. My original harnesses had separate spade connectors (no connector block) but the new harnesses have the blocks.
The connector block is different than any other I’ve seen on the car thus far... there’s a barbed plane on the motor side that fits into a slot in the connector block. This ensures polarity is correct. You can see it in the photo.
Even with a brand new harness, this connector was difficult to unplug. The barbs do their job well.
Anyway, I agree, a squirt of deoxit and then... just reach in there, grab the connector, and wiggle/walk it off while pulling straight out. It’ll come off with enough wiggling.
06-17-2008, 05:52 PM
Window Lift Motor Replacement
