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help!! 88 nostart

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Old 06-15-2008, 04:52 PM
  #16  
dr bob
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Whate they all said!

...And if the diagnosing of the drain included removing the 'extra' red leads attached to the battery positive cable, go make sure those connections are in fact clean and tight. Many times we see audio accessories powered from the same terminal, for instance, and subsequently find that the FI brain and/or the cooling fans seem to have mystery problems. Those primary devices have dedicated power feed cables directlty attached to the positive battery terminal. Battery is under the left side of the rear deck, under a cover panel, then under the spare wheel, and under the cover there that hinges open.

Make sure the condition of the battery is suitable for your driving intentions. A battery that's been weakend by several deep discharge cycles may deserve a replacement now. If nothing else, clean the terminal connections on the battery until they are bright. Put them back together, then 'seal' the connections with athin coating of Vaseline. The correct 928 batteries have a vapor vent hose connection; Add a little tubing and/or hose to route those corrosive fumes out of the battery box.
Old 06-16-2008, 01:52 PM
  #17  
tcandey
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Originally Posted by John Speake
It is most unlikely one of my rebuilt ECUs would fail after such a short time..... does the tach flicker when you crank the engine ?

RPM pulses from EZK to LH arrive at LH pin #1. A 12v square wave. Check that is present. Those same pulses feed the tach.

Have you checked fuel delivery volume and pressure at the rail, as per the WS manual ?
Thanks for all the advice and the suggestions regarding checking/swapping relays. I have now verified that all of the relays are in fact good. As far as the 12v square wave being present at LH pin 1, I have not pulled the boot off of the connector to check right at the ecu itself however the tach does jump while the engine is cranking as Mr. Speake suggested......
Where to go from here?
Old 06-16-2008, 02:49 PM
  #18  
John Speake
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When did the car last run ? What has been done to it since that time ?
Old 06-16-2008, 05:27 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by John Speake
When did the car last run ? What has been done to it since that time ?
Last winter, the car had a battery drain problem. Anotehr mechanic was in there trying to troubleshoot it, found the drain to be the driver seat. This person disconnected the seat after doing who knows what trying to grab power from somewhere else.

Are there any basics I can look for to make sure that the lh and ezk modules are actually getting the signals they need?
Old 06-16-2008, 09:14 PM
  #20  
the flyin' scotsman
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Did the other mechanic try to boost the car?

If so you may have fried brain/s
Old 06-17-2008, 07:39 AM
  #21  
John Speake
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THe LH did get fried at some point....... as he had to have a rebuilt unit this spring.

I would suggest going through Wally Plumley's ground point check, especially the two on the top of the engine under the airfilter box.
Old 06-17-2008, 06:50 PM
  #22  
the flyin' scotsman
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I was wondering if it was fried again
Old 06-18-2008, 06:05 AM
  #23  
John Speake
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Doom- monger !
Old 06-27-2008, 10:00 AM
  #24  
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Just to keep this thread going... Todd is coming over to my house this Sunday morning and we will try his LH in my car. Will report when we have something to report.

John do you have any issue with me trying a different eprom in the LH?
Old 06-27-2008, 01:19 PM
  #25  
John Speake
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Hi Andrew
I was going to point out that your car's LH is setup for 30# injectors and your s/c.......:-)

Yes, you will theoretically cancel the warranty on the repair, but that is OK in this instance. Just be careful... and don't do anything other than EPROM swap.

I am not sure who the original customer was for the rebuilt LH as it wasn't Todd, according to my and Louie's records.

Please check the rebuild date when you have the LH removed from the bracket.

Let us know what you find. Before you remove the EPROM from the LH, check carefully to make sure it is firmly inserted; I had one instance recently where without the plastic clip it had worked its way out.

Are you also going to test the EZK as well ?
Old 06-29-2008, 11:07 AM
  #26  
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Update:

Todd just left my house. I think it's bad news...

First off, there was no re-build sticker on the unit.



Since I needed to swap out the LH chip I proceeded to open up the LH. This is what I found. I'm not sure, but I don't think this is one of John's re-builds.




I burned and verified a chip using my LH map and proceeded to install it. We then plugged it into my car. I tried to start the car, but nothing. We know for sure the fuel pump is not getting energized. Also, I believe the injectors are not getting a pulse because the residule pressure in the fuel rail did not go down at all (Noid light set is on loan at a friends place.)

So I think it's pretty convincing that the LH is bad. Todd, is going to send it out for diagnosis and repair.
Old 06-29-2008, 12:16 PM
  #27  
John Speake
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Hi Andrew
Were there any "guarantee void" if label removed" stickers on each side of the case, rearward of the mounting bracket, between baseplate and lid ?

It is one of my tile replacement boards but I need to know the name of the PO who had that unit rebuilt.
Old 06-29-2008, 03:20 PM
  #28  
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John-
There were no stickers other than the factory ones. I looked all over for your "guaranteed void" sticker, but there was none to be found.
Old 06-29-2008, 03:50 PM
  #29  
John Speake
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Hi Andrew,
OK thanks for that. If we can determine when it was rebuilt, and for whom, then I can say if it is still under its 3 year warranty.

Louie and I always attach the stickers.

I think I've had 3 or 4 returns in the 600 or so units I have rebuilt. It is usually something other than the part I rebuild that goes next :-)
Old 06-30-2008, 01:05 PM
  #30  
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Hey, I'm back!
Many thanks to Andrew for his assistance and patience yesterday.
John, the PO's name is Djovani Miok, the repair would have been done approx 12-18mos ago. The PO lives in warren, mi.
Ring any bells?


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