mj1pate

no, I bought a younger, lower mileage ‘88 (non-LSD) to replace my badly slipping ‘86.5. Using good TT from the same to replace my still good ‘86.5 TT.
BTW: my soon to be dismounted 86.5, slipping non-LSD trans/diff will be up for grabs for anyone who can pick it up. No issues with the diff. I can neither store nor rebuild it. I hate to say it, but unless it gets salvaged by someone, it will likely go to a recycler. Yes, I’ll advertise the intent to giveaway more broadly before such a thing happens. It would be too bad, but we will soon be downsizing and I just can’t store it. If ONLY I could find that seniors’ community with efficiently sized single family dwellings and 4-car garages. (Sigh)

mj1pate

it’s not as high as I like. I planned on putting my old liftbars (from Ken) to use, but chickened out cranking it up to to even the minimum height of my 12 ton jack stand pair. So, it’s up on my Ranger Quickjack. I have a trans jack, but anticipate switching back and forth between the jack and wratchet straps to drop and raise it.

zekgb

Highly recommend doing the bearings on the torque tube and converter carrier no matter how good they feel now. It's not hard and you definitely don't want to have to do this job again.

zekgb

Quickjack height should be fine for clearance when removing the rear clip but obviously the more height the better. I don't have lift bars and at 6 ton jackstand height it was tight but ok using a low profile jack to roll it out from under the rear end.

mj1pate

A few notes to add to add to Dean’s and everyone else’s. After lowering my auto trans and TT down:
1) it may just be me at my age… the availability of air tools, particularly a plain air wratchet saved my joints much agony, spinning off many nuts/bolts from stem to stern. The impact wrench was also put to good use, judiciously and more sparingly. My back and neck had complaints, but arms, wrists, hands, fingers had little to complain about.
2) the Ranger quick jack height was fine. I loosened the rear suspension pins so that the shock towers would swing out of the way, and pulling the TT/trans assembly out from under was the easy part.
3) I recommend a hoist be available. I’m replacing a slipping transmission with a donor, which is on its own pallet. My hoist is a heavy duty truck hitch connected hoist and easily lifts items near the rear tailgate off of this and onto that. There is a simple stand attachment for the hoist, but it’s not in the way and heavy wide loads can be right under and close to the tailgate to lift/maneuver around. IF the trans is temporarily set on a pallet, the hoist makes short work of maneuvering it.
4) much refresh can be done with the bottom end of the car pulled out from under. Replace those broken brake ABS/pad wear electric wire to body/frame fasteners with new ones. Roger can get them. Those crusty looking ABS wires need a fresh sleeve of heat shrink around them. Research how cut/wrap/glue heat shrink around wires to recreate new water proof insulation and protection. The rust dissolvers that turn into protective primer are ideal for coating some of those metal flanges that are rusting away and do no more than support cable retainers or heat shields.
5) oh yeah, that machine press I’ve been thinking of buying and managed without for 30 years? Well, those torque converter bearings that beckon replacing said I should buy one and will probably use it this once and never again.