SeanR

Said the fuse in the CE was good, didn't get to the "unit" until today. Thanks for the quick look up on that wire. What is this "short finder" you speak of?

The drivers door panel was off the car when it came in, and that is actually the 1st place I checked (seen that on a few other cars, mine included) Have not taken the passenger door off but that is on the list for tomorrow. I've gone through as much of the harness (aside from the pass door) that can be got to w/o having to cut in to stuff. Looking at the weak/known points first.

Sucks that I only get to spend a couple hours a day over at Rogers, I'm sure it frustrates the customers, and Rog, that it takes so long. Sorry Tom, I'm working on the car in the afternoon and researching (rennlist and diagrams at night at home) Good thing is I get to take Angela's car apart to do comparisons. Mine is non alarm, sooo much easier.

ZEUS+

This is just one type of short finder. I dont use them, have good luck tracing them down.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Power...dZp1638Q2em146

SeanR

Thanks, I can always use more tools.

Alan

The alarm drives the interior lights (ground side), Alarm Horn, Ignition Disable Relay and all the sensors for the alarm & locks.

Try unplugging connector 2 - the one with the small gauge wires - does the fuse blow then? this will help narrow down.

Is fuse 17 still good ?

If the alarm unit fuse still blows try the following: disconnect connector 2 again and also connector 1 - on this connector pair find a way to connect only pin 1 on the plug to pin 1 on the alarm socket and Pin 2 on the plug to pin 2 on the alarm socket - does it blow then? If yes the alarm unit is hosed.

If not you will need to selectively connect each of the other pins one at a time until the failure reoccurs - if it still doesn't you may need to connect multiple of them concurrently - harder to do...

Alan

SeanR

Here's todays update.

Passenger door lock cylinder was disconnected, and I could tell someone had been in there before.

Passenger door light had a busted connection, the 2 br-br/wh wire.

It does not blow when connector #2 (black one, small bundle of wires) is unplugged. When I take T-3 and T-4 unplugged, and pop in connector #2 it still blows, tells me it's not inside the doors. Double checked everything anyway.

Yes, #17 fuse is still good, has not blown.

I got the door panel off the passenger side and start to take the main harness off the door, checking the wires and connection points and out dumps a lot of H2O, it was sitting inside the harness wrap. I went ahead and removed the wrap and checked each and every wire and left it alone to dry. Found no breaks from just inside the door jam to the the T-4 connector. There was a fair amount of corrosion on the T-4 but it was on the mirror wires. That's fixed.

Drivers side harness was all goopy from something, cleaned it up and found 3 wires that were not broken, but the insulation was split. Fixed those up, and inspected everything there.

Left the connections off the doors and retried the fuse and boom.

I'll give the pin jumping you mentioned last night, when I get back there tomorrow and I'll see if the alarm unit is toast. If I understand what you said, Pin 1's and pin 2's? How do I accomplish this and still get the unit plugged in? Or are you saying, leave them unplugged, and just connect 1's and 2's only?

Thanks again.

Alan

yes just those 2 pins was what I meant. But I think you already determined it is something on the plug 2 that causes the issue right? So seems thats not needed.

Instead selectively connect back the terminals of Alarm Plug 2 one at a time - which one(s) causes the fuse to blow - identify pin# and/or wire colors.

Alan

SeanR

I'm at a loss right now on it.

I think I'm going to follow your idea of just plugging in each one individually and try to find the culprit..... It would seem that the water in the harness was not the issue.

Does anyone have an extra alarm control unit I can swap in to test? I promise to return it the next day. If a known, working, unit works, it might save a few hours of troubleshooting.

I suppose I could take the wifes out of her car, but that would put me in the dog house for a bit longer than I am currently in it.

SeanR

Nevermind, her's is different........... hmmmm.

SeanR

OTAY...............

Thank you guys for the advice.

Today I got back in to it and did tests and did what Alan mentioned above, about a dozen fuses later i narrowed it down to the alarm horn wire. Red wire with white stripe. You know, the one none of us can get to unless we are parting out the car.... I pulled it out of the circuit, plugged everything back in and MOST everything else works. I tested each part of the set up and I now have a damn good understanding how the Porsche alarm system works. Well engineered.

So I put everything back together except the drivers door, which is where the final issue is on this one. The alarm key cylinder is not sending the unlock pulse to the rest of the car. The locking pulse is there, but not the one to shut off the alarm or unlock all the doors. Now some might as how I know it is the lock, and not a wire in the harness. I took the 3 prong plug off, used a test light and when I hit one, everything worked like it was supposed to (windows, locks, sunroof, alarm) When I hit the #3, reverse happened. I'm so happy.

So tomorrow I'm going to pull the lock out and tinker and see what needs to be replaced/fixed.

I'm always in a better mood when I feel I've accomplished something and it makes it so much easier with the help you guys put out there for us.